Sljs3413

Looking to get into a Z budget is roughly 17k

whichvette

Plenty of choices for 17k....probably a 90 or 91 with about 40 to 70k miles

Paul Workman

And, unless the former owner(s) ran it out of coolant or oil, etc. 100k miles is just getting broken in. Marc Haibeck told me once that some track cars he's had in for overhaul have gone to 175k and still be in spec, far as wear tolerances go. Just about anything you have collected in the way of normal SBC performance/wear, etc., can be tossed out the window, far as the LT5 is concerned. They're (by comparison) bullet proof!

81c3

I sure wasnt able to find very many in that range when I was looking last month and the month prior.... I did find one that I now own, but I still am not seeing a boat load of them for that price.... I was on CG, Ebay, ZR-1 NR and here in the FS section & others... every day several times a day.... I feel like I got pretty lucky with what I paid and what I got...

RossGN

Keep in mind everything you see on internet are "asking" prices. Don't be afraid to negotiate.

Also keep in mind, a $15k car could turn into a $20k plus car real quick if repairs needed. I looked at a $16k '90 ZR1 that was listed as a "9.5 out of 10". I tracked down previous owner and he advised 3rd synchro were going out....that alone would have jumped it above $20k if trans had to be pulled and sent to Haibeck.

EvanZR1

Definitely don't be afraid to negotiate, you can easily knock thousands off if the seller knows you're serious and he's motivated to move it. But definitely be aware that while the LT5 is fairly bulletproof, that doesn't mean things can't go wrong. Also, the car itself is a ~25 year old car, so there's going to be plenty of minor issues even on a "perfect" car.

The biggest thing I'll advise having bought two of these in the last decade, is find what you really want and don't settle. They often don't sell quickly and take the right buyer, so if you pick something you don't love, you're going to be stuck with it a while (or take a bath on getting out of it). For instance this time around, I decided I didn't want black (too hard to keep clean), didn't want red or yellow (too much attention, especially from LEOs), and while I like white, I wanted something more unique. I also wanted a modded car. In the end I passed on several modded cars because of color to buy a restored stock steel blue car. Which I'm now dropping almost as much as I paid for the car to get an all out 391 cubic inch build done.

fxkenny

I'll put my 2 cents worth in here.
You can fairly easily find a pretty decent '90-'91 in the upper teen range. Just be prepared to add to the purchase price dealing with aged items and getting the maintenance up to date.
If you work on it yourself the cost is not a killer, but the cost of parts does add up.
Here are some things easily overlooked or not calculated into after purchase expense:
Tires: They are most likely not worn out, but how old are they? $1,000.00 or so if over 5 years old.
Radio: Does it work properly and do you really care? $200.00 to $1,000.00 depending on how well you want it to work.
Fuel Injectors: If they have not been changed there goes another $1,000.00.
Clutch master & slave cyls, hyd hose: $250.00.
Fuel pumps & in-tank hoses: $200.00.
Brakes: Master cyl, pads, rotors, calipers: Possibly $500.00 +
Paint correction: Good detailing supplies are not cheap: Another $200.00+
Fluids: Engine, Trans, Diff: Easily $200.00
Rubber goods. Coolant hoses, suspension bushings, ect: Easily a few hundred more.
These may or not all need to be done, but my suggestion is to be prepared to spend some money AFTER the PURCHASE if you buy one under $20K.
This is also not by any means an all inclusive list of what to expect to have as an added expense.
Makes you wonder? Maybe those fully vetted Z's @ 25K are a really good deal?

81c3

Also.... remember... not ALWAYS do you need to spend all the money mentioned above. A good deal can be inclusive of all the above items already addressed. Sometimes the PO spent the money on the car already and you get to bask in the fruits of his funds spent and labor already completed for you. Just need to be patient and land on the right car.... and finding a good honest seller is a huge win.

fxkenny

I did not intend to imply that all these items would be required on any given car in a certain price range, only that they were possible areas that additional funds could be expended along with others I did not mention.
My experience with sub 20K cars is that they will require some "maintenance". Of course, there is always the exception where the seller is motivated for one reason or another to sell the car.
I am all for getting the best price possible, but being aware of possible issues is only prudent and should be calculated into the purchase decision.

TOM65 L76 96 LT1

Listed May 14th on Cleveland Ohio Craigslist, 90 Black/Black with 32.5 for miles, asking price 16k, could be a deal and worth a phone call, 440-376-0150

pushrod-v8

Have you seen this Z?

https://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/d/1991-chevy-corvette-zr1-66k/6569217346.html

IMO it could go for less

biggiefl

I'd be peeling that F&@*ing dealer badge off the rear bumper. Who would put that on a vette?

cv67

Z buyers are a small market. Lot easier to buy than to sell. Show up with cash, youre in the drivers seat.

drcook

Here you go, price is in your range, has 35,000 miles, you have to remove the ugly wing on the back though, the cars is about 25 miles from me.

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...odelCode1=CORV

biggiefl

That wing is seriously wrong....almost as bad as the dealer badge on the white one