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ROAD TRIP!!!! That's awesome! I'm not a huge fan of the accel injectors - they are hit or miss, but do report back with your results - and congrats on the 2800 miles of enjoyment from the beast!
A 91 will never hit 170 mph.. 120 on up your speed will gain very...slowly.
thats not true. The 91’s or any year for that manner spin easily up to 170+. Something is wrong with the injectors or the secondary butterflies are not opening If these cars gain speed slowly after 120.
If someone was driving an 8k mile 91 across flats of Idaho to Tennessee, hypothetically what kind of time and distance would it take to go from 120-170 mph - obviously on a private course?
I heard of a fellow with a clean gas tank and fuel filters and all the injectors ohm tested good (but maybe not cleaned) who once ran 4th up to 130 or so and 5th to 144 but the last fifteen miles per hour or so ticked off less than one per second.
i am a longtime member on the c1/c2 forum and do track days with my 64. Thank you guys!
benton
ps- I hear the car looks vaguely like this
Silly question...were all the injectors turned on?
Have you ran it through the quarter mile? If so, what kind of time are you getting. ZR-1s can be unpredictable in this respect but you should get somewhere between a 12.8 and a 13.5. If you are getting that kind of time, airflow and trottle cables aren't really the problem, may sounds like a transmission issue.
thats not true. The 91’s or any year for that manner spin easily up to 170+. Something is wrong with the injectors or the secondary butterflies are not opening If these cars gain speed slowly after 120.
Yeah, not sure why they are saying that. Every year of the ZR-1 have the exact same engine and transmission. The differences that impact horsepower are exhaust and air filters, and maybe an argument can be made for Dunn heads. But, none of this should change the performance by more than a couple of tenths.
I’m sorry I missed so many good replies! I got so many notifications from the cf on email I turned off notifications since I’m always on the c2 forum. My apologies.
I have a full set of accel injectors but it will be a week before I can swap them. I’ll report back. I did follow the zr1 specialist remote primary injectors test and as I felt driving it she still is way down on power- I can wait to drive her after i fix!
here are the ohm readings!
Any reading under 12 ohms is a problem. If they are OEM they all need replaced.
H
Killer pics. You were in my territory. First pic is Rt 6 dropping down into Helper UT...
3rd pic (wind mills) is mouth of Spanish Fork Canyon
Last is "down town" Ouray. -Did you drive up over Red Mtn pass and down into Silverton? Wicked drive!
I was able to figure all that out w/o even having and FSM!
Killer pics. You were in my territory. First pic is Rt 6 dropping down into Helper UT...
3rd pic (wind mills) is mouth of Spanish Fork Canyon
Last is "down town" Ouray. -Did you drive up over Red Mtn pass and down into Silverton? Wicked drive!
I was able to figure all that out w/o even having and FSM!
.
tom- wow! You picked out all those places. Yes, we actually came from ouray to silverton in the dark and so the next morning we backtracked and did it all again (my friend who owns the zr-1 had previously done the ride on a bmw motorcycle and we set up the whole route to do this!)
The whole thing was an epic adventure I’ll never forget and strive to duplicate! I am however excited to see the lt5 properly running
Last edited by ChattanoogaJSB; 07-29-2018 at 06:01 PM.
I think you're gonna like the Accels. For the record, the problem children were the 90-92 ZR-1s, far as alcohol susceptibility goes. (alcohol dissolves the shellac insulation on the internal coil (pintle) actuators. Over time the exposed windings come into direct contact with one another, thus shorting out the windings, wrap by wrap. And, as this progresses, more and more windings shorting to their neighbor windings, the resistance across the whole coil drops and drops. And, as result, the electro-magnetic force diminishes as fewer and fewer coil windings participate in the work for which they were intended.
IMPORTANT TO NOTE: Often coils may NOT display a reduction of normal resistance when cold! Only after the coils are heated do some windings actually come in contact with neighboring coil windings and short out. SO! Point is, be sure to test the coils with the motor at/near operating temperature in order to get a more representative reading of their condition.
Hope this ** helps somebody.
Referring to the title of this thread, and the remark about shifting at way below the rev limit, makes me (too) think the secondaries are NOT opening. If the ARE, it will pull like a freight train...ALL THE WAY to 7k rpm. But, if it is petering out above (approx) 5500, then you have either 1) failure of the secondaries to be opening properly, or 2) the accordion hose between the air horn and the filter box is collapsing and pinching off the air flow.
To test these two, you can zip-tie the secondary actuators open and go WOT to see if that cures the acceleration issue.(#1)
For (#2), you can remove that hose and go WOT. IF you had experienced a bogging above 5500 or so rpm before, but now it pulls to 7k...you have your answer.
Last edited by Paul Workman; 08-03-2018 at 09:22 AM.
Paul- thank you for the insight! I just pulled the plenum for the accel swap and will check all the connections on reassembly (I photographed everything exhaustively). I had concluded the engine was running Lean and just wouldn’t meet demands above 5,000 rpm. It also didn’t pull very well at low rpm launches either.
We had it try and overheat a lower speeds pulling the mountain passes- I had attributed that at first to the old thermostat but the more I think of it the more I wonder if it was also the result of running much too lean plus the elevation (8,000’)
07-20-2018, 02:44 PM
