C4 ZR-1 Discussion General ZR-1 Corvette Discussion, LT5 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track

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Old 04-14-2019, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Rkreigh View Post
Carter Machine makes a nice LT5 billet TB plate. if that's what you have and would like to trade I'll swap you for a very nice condition stocker.

For sure let us know how you like the OBX, they look like a fantastic deal and better quality than expected at that price point.

with the corsa, the muffs are engineered for the whole system so I'm not sure how it would sound.

I found on the B&B the sound is great and with the "new style" muffs not too obnoxious

the corsa muffs flow better and I like the design, but the B&B is a full 3" and sounds better to me.

both will make similar HP with the the best flow / least back pressure going to the corsa due to the muff and resonator design

the OLD B&B system I feel may have done better but it's so loud and resonates so bad I'm not bad I wouldn't use it as it was good for LT5 dentistry shaking fillings loose.

keeping under the plenum clean is tough as air flows under it and the breather box weeps oil and dirt gets stuck in the oil and deposits

stay off dusty roads is the only answer there or pull your plenum every 30k or so miles.

How dirty it gets really does depend on how dusty the roads are. For sure seal up that breather box gasket and check the hoses. Powder coating does help as it will "shed" the oil and dirt better from what I see.

Thanks! I attached a pic of the engine with the current TB plate on it. If that's one you would want to trade for the stock plate, PM me your address and I'll see if I can get it out in the mail to you this coming week. It doesn't have to be spotless under there but it's pretty filthy at the moment. I actually was considering the powder coating route as I got a $500 quote for bright silver with a powder clear. A couple of things are keeping me from doing it: Hate the idea of trying to remove the cam covers and the existing paint actually cleaned up pretty nice and I can do some more to it. The cam covers definitely look a darker color than the plenum and injector housings. So the plan was to have a light smear of sealant on the new breather box gasket unless that's a no no.


Originally Posted by Z51JEFF View Post
After I had the plenum off I thought it would be a good idea to coat all the soft parts with KRYTOX,what a mistake that was. The dirt and dust was like flys to fly paper.
Thanks for the heads up, so leave it all as it came out of the parts bags when throwing it in.


Originally Posted by ccmano View Post
I have the OBX headers and I’m very pleased with them. Excellent fit an quality. The only modification mine required was to dimple one header pipe where it interfered with the steering shaft ever so slightly. Good that your having them coated. Didn’t do that with mine and wish I did because of the heat they transfer to the cabin. I have the full OBX exhaust too which I really like. Nice low tone with no drone. But I must admit I still like the Corsa higher pitched scream at full throttle better.

As for the valley consider doing a throttle body coolant elimination by sealing the top of the Injector housing water passages with a threaded plug. It makes removing the plenum for service and cleaning a snap because you don’t have to drain and refill coolant every time. The coolant circuit through the throttle body only exists to prevent icing in winter conditions. It’s highly unlikely that these cars will be driven in those conditions these days. Have fun getting your Beast to your liking. To me it’s the best part of ownership.
H

So this is something I was curious about and there are no drawbacks to eliminating this coolant path? If the only one is icing of TB blades, I live in Florida, so I would definitely want to do this while I'm in there. As you can see from the below pic, it's a not so clean loop around of hose, the stainless pipe bent through the valley would be much cleaner but if I'm good without this pathway at all, I'll ditch it. I had plans to remove the injector housings anyway. What size pipe plug, thread chase and sealant did you use? Glad to hear the headers aren't too much of a hassle. I have read the dip stick tube has to be rerouted but is there a bracket made for this or is it on me to just make one? I watched some of Snakeskinner's youtube video on his OBX install and I can see why some of the bolts aren't in from the factory, it's really pinched on the underside. But I would ask is there a certain length of stainless metric fasteners that should be used or do the stockers work just fine?

Sorry for the shotgun barrage of questions.



Last edited by 1985 Corvette; 04-14-2019 at 04:20 PM.
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Old 04-14-2019, 09:53 PM
  #42  
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This thread will provide the details on how to block the IH coolant passages. Post #192
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1588695506

And this one post #1 item 4
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...d-systems.html

Paul Workman, here on CF and over on the Registry forum makes a dipstick bracket that works like a charm, hereís my install. Stainless header bolts are Mr Gasket, Iíve had zero issues.
H


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Old 04-16-2019, 08:18 PM
  #43  
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Thanks for the parts numbers and link, Ccmano. The parts showed up today for the pipe plugs and header bolts from Summit. I got the plenum off and there's a lot to unpack under in here. Haven't been under one for about 15 years. Pretty gunked up. At this point, I'm looking to get most of everything out of the valley and here's something: I was informed by the fourth owner that the third owner had the chip sent to Marc for some tweaking. Supposedly, the fans were set to come on sooner along with some altered timing tables and the big one being full power mode on all the time. It was stressed to me by the 4th owner that the key always had to be turned to "on".

After doing some research on here, it looks like 1990 is the only model that needs to have the key always "on" or a wire jumpered behind the plate to avoid a lean condition correct? To my surprise, the secondary are not only in place but there's no wiring of any kind in place to hold these open. So please correct me if I'm mistaken but in a 91 -95 Z, with the change in the chip the secondaries have to be removed or fixed open right? I'm trying to get a pic of the valley to see if someone can ID these blue ignition coils...they say made in USA on them but I can't see a brand stamp.

Also I had a casualty removing the plenum, the driver side plenum port vac line snapped off but appears to be an easy fix.
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Old 04-16-2019, 09:27 PM
  #44  
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So... if you remove the secondary vacuum activation system and wire the secondary throttle plates open (or simply remove them altogether) two things need to be done to make all 16 injectors work properly and act as one system. 1) You need a memcal (chip) from Haibeck or someone else who is capable. Once these programming changes have been made its like driving any car with a regular fuel injection system, only you have 16 injectors instead of 8. 2) the system always needs to be in the “full Power” Mode. You no longer have what is essentially 2 systems. If not and you run in standard mode the system essentially runs on half the fuel immediately off idle. This lean condition can quickly damage the engine. The 90’ system is analog, simply bridging the two wires behind the Full Power Switch will assure that it is always in that Mode. The 91’+ System is electronic and controlled through the memcal chip. That’s why it always reverts to standard mode when the engine is turned off. The chip has to be programmed to stay in full power mode all the time. I believe Haibeck does that as part of the secondary delete programming.

Some people simply want to be in Full Power mode all the time and not bother with the keys. The same power key mods can be done to achieve that and leave the secondary system in place. 91+ was consider a pain that way because you had to turn that key every time you started the engine. Looks like the PO was one of those and had Haibeck program it out.

Looks like your progressing nicely. Keep up the good work.
H

Last edited by ccmano; 04-16-2019 at 09:34 PM.
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Old 04-18-2019, 09:04 PM
  #45  
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Well, if you picked up a Z that hasn't been garaged its whole life, it's probably got a rats nest under the plenum. I really didn't expect to find what I did once in the valley, as the 3rd owner had the starter, coils and wires replaced (still looks new) sometime around or before 78,000 miles. And for whatever reason, they left duct tape around the plug wires with the numbers indicated on them. The masking tape is mine, paper thin and comes off no problem. Have a look at the nest...thankfully no critter bones or remains found when I got it out with the shop vac.






Anyway I'm a slow poke when it comes to working on this stuff. The PCV hoses are hard as a rock with very little give and the replacements I got from Jerry's feel like a hose should. I'm guessing the heat has baked the factory hoses that hard. I'll unpack the starter and the remaining vacuum lines tomorrow. Going to try and get the old PCV hoses off and open up the PCV case, I think that's a source of the wet/moist grime covering everything in the valley.

Random question: does anyone know if reproduction rubber boots are made that slide over the back of the power wire that attaches to the alternator? Mine is toast.

Last edited by 1985 Corvette; 04-18-2019 at 09:07 PM.
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Old 04-18-2019, 09:44 PM
  #46  
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I donít think Iíve had one open yet that didnít have a mouse nest. Not a problem unless they munched on wires. I have no clue on the coils. They look like a blue version of the AC Delco coil. Likely Chinese but who knows and what isnít Chinese these days. That starter looks awfully clean, was it redone before? By PCV case do you mean the breather box under the vacuum reservoir? At the very least re-torque those bolts or pull it, reseal with a new gasket and re-torque.

Also, not sure if I mentioned this, consider replacing the lower injector housing gaskets. Iím seeing more and more cars, especially with higher mileage, with loose injector housings and compromised lower gaskets. Just found another one locally. 110k miles blowing continuous blue smoke at idle. Weíre doing the gaskets Saturday along with some of the same stuff your doing. Again, at the very least re-torque the IH bolts while your there.

Have fun...
H
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Old 04-18-2019, 10:36 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by ccmano View Post
I don’t think I’ve had one open yet that didn’t have a mouse nest. Not a problem unless they munched on wires. I have no clue on the coils. They look like a blue version of the AC Delco coil. Likely Chinese but who knows and what isn’t Chinese these days. That starter looks awfully clean, was it redone before? By PCV case do you mean the breather box under the vacuum reservoir? At the very least re-torque those bolts or pull it, reseal with a new gasket and re-torque.

Also, not sure if I mentioned this, consider replacing the lower injector housing gaskets. I’m seeing more and more cars, especially with higher mileage, with loose injector housings and compromised lower gaskets. Just found another one locally. 110k miles blowing continuous blue smoke at idle. We’re doing the gaskets Saturday along with some of the same stuff your doing. Again, at the very least re-torque the IH bolts while your there.

Have fun...
H
The starter looks to be a direct replacement part, the aluminum casting is way too clean. I grabbed a set of new IH gaskets so I will put those in while in here. Yep, I meant the breather box, I have a new gasket for that one as well. I am curious if a light smear of sealant on the breather box gasket both sides would hurt.

Last edited by 1985 Corvette; 04-18-2019 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 04-18-2019, 10:40 PM
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A little permatex couldn’t hurt given how those things tend to loosen up.
H

Last edited by ccmano; 04-18-2019 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:16 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 1985 Corvette View Post
Thanks! I attached a pic of the engine with the current TB plate on it. If that's one you would want to trade for the stock plate, PM me your address and I'll see if I can get it out in the mail to you this coming week. It doesn't have to be spotless under there but it's pretty filthy at the moment. I actually was considering the powder coating route as I got a $500 quote for bright silver with a powder clear. A couple of things are keeping me from doing it: Hate the idea of trying to remove the cam covers and the existing paint actually cleaned up pretty nice and I can do some more to it. The cam covers definitely look a darker color than the plenum and injector housings. So the plan was to have a light smear of sealant on the new breather box gasket unless that's a no no.Thanks for the heads up, so leave it all as it came out of the parts bags when throwing it in.




So this is something I was curious about and there are no drawbacks to eliminating this coolant path? If the only one is icing of TB blades, I live in Florida, so I would definitely want to do this while I'm in there. As you can see from the below pic, it's a not so clean loop around of hose, the stainless pipe bent through the valley would be much cleaner but if I'm good without this pathway at all, I'll ditch it. I had plans to remove the injector housings anyway. What size pipe plug, thread chase and sealant did you use? Glad to hear the headers aren't too much of a hassle. I have read the dip stick tube has to be rerouted but is there a bracket made for this or is it on me to just make one? I watched some of Snakeskinner's youtube video on his OBX install and I can see why some of the bolts aren't in from the factory, it's really pinched on the underside. But I would ask is there a certain length of stainless metric fasteners that should be used or do the stockers work just fine?
I would venture to say paint on the throttle body started to blister because of seeping coolant and that throttle plate looks like one of Carterís pieces.
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Old 04-19-2019, 01:29 PM
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The headers showed up today. They look pretty good but I'm a bit puzzled by an extra tube welded onto the #6 primary. Ccmano, or anyone else who has these what is this? I'm guessing later model year Z EGR? I checked the LT5 supplement pics and a few 90 - 92 manifolds on ebay and they do not show this.







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Old 04-19-2019, 05:44 PM
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I had the same question. Yup, EGR for the later cars. Most just cap them or weld them up. I shortened mine and plugged it with an appropriate sized freeze plug then added a couple spot welds to keep it there.
H
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Old 04-19-2019, 06:21 PM
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I have one on my Watson headers, but theres no hole in the primary tube... just the nipple welded onto it.... Here nor there, just left it...

BTW, you're gonna love the headers!!!!

Last edited by 81c3; 04-19-2019 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 04-19-2019, 07:45 PM
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Well I got the starter out and have been cleaning the valley decided to move to the front of the engine. I managed to crack the belt tensioner pulley right where the rachet sticks into the hole so tension can be relieved off the belt to free it. Anyone got one laying around they don't mind taking me to the cleaners for? Not how I wanted to end a day of wrenching. Looks like Marc only does the rebuild service. I still sent him an email to see if he has one refurbished to sell without a core.


EDIT: I found this but I don't think this is correct:

https://www.carparts.com/details/Che...owfitment=true

Last edited by 1985 Corvette; 04-19-2019 at 07:55 PM.
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Old 04-19-2019, 08:03 PM
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The pulleys are universal to the C4 with the only variable being the lip or no lip versions. Rockauto.com has a good selection. I’d get the Dayco.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...r+pulley,10346

H

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Old 04-19-2019, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ccmano View Post
The pulleys are universal to the C4 with the only variable being the lip or no lip versions. Rockauto.com has a good selection. Iíd get the Dayco.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...r+pulley,10346

H
I wish it was that easy. I meant the aluminum cracked around the provision hole for the rachet to slot into on the tensioner so it can rotate downward to get the belt off. The one on my 85 rotates no problem, this one felt like it was seized by comparison.
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Old 04-19-2019, 09:07 PM
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Sent you a PM. An L98 / LT1 tensioner can be used to rebuild yours.
H
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Old 04-19-2019, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ccmano View Post
Sent you a PM. An L98 / LT1 tensioner can be used to rebuild yours.
H
Thank you for that, sir! Now that I've had time to chill out and cool off about this, the crack seems to be just around the whole for the ratchet to fit into. I may be able to still use the pulley, maybe JB weld to fill the crack. I'll look at it again tomorrow.
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Old 04-20-2019, 06:50 PM
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This thing was riding on the crank pulley before I even got to it. I saw some info about factory pulleys having ridges on both sides and this one has one side that has been shaved off. Who know how long it has been like this. Car has ran fantastic. LT5 supplement had the pulley clocked pointing up at the alternator and mine was pointing at the water pump and basically contacting the crank pulley and even the water pump a bit. So safe to say this one is shot. It returns right back to pointing at the water pump when I pulled on it. The crack in the ratchet hole thankfully does not go all the way through, so I'm going to try some JB weld. This thing is going to Marc for a rebuild, I've got enough projects to play around with the more I dig into this top end.



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Old 04-20-2019, 06:57 PM
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And I have a random question that is more my paranoia than anything. When I finally got this tensioner to move and release tension on the belt to take off, I noticed a tiny fizzling sound, like if you opened a carbonated can a crack and just let it fizzle out. I heard this noise for HOURS and it drove me crazy trying to pinpoint but I'm guessing releasing the tension on the belt rotated the water pump just enough to move an air pocket around (not all the coolant is drained at the moment). No puddles under the car anywhere and I swear it sounded like the noise was coming from the water pump area. I had my ear on the AC compressor and lines once I moved them out of the way it didn't sound like it was coming from them.

I know it's dumb but wondering if anyone has heard that before, car has been sitting for a week.

Last edited by 1985 Corvette; 04-20-2019 at 07:00 PM.
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Old 04-20-2019, 09:54 PM
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Canít say Iíve run across that. As you say itís possible your hearing noises from inside the cooling system. Try opening the radiator cap on the coolant tank to release any residual pressure and see what happens. Could also be a leaking AC line, tighten the Schrader valves and see if that makes a difference. Sounds like your having all kinds of fun.
H
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