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Old 04-22-2019, 05:49 PM
  #61  
1985 Corvette
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Originally Posted by ccmano View Post
Can’t say I’ve run across that. As you say it’s possible your hearing noises from inside the cooling system. Try opening the radiator cap on the coolant tank to release any residual pressure and see what happens. Could also be a leaking AC line, tighten the Schrader valves and see if that makes a difference. Sounds like your having all kinds of fun.
H
It was the water pump. I finished draining the coolant and got the same fizzle. from the same area again while draining. I had a shitty day with it today..because I'm an idiot. I depressurized the fuel rail at the schrader valve, however because the car has been sitting for over a week, the pressure in the tank just pushed gas all over me and the back of the engine bay when I pulled the feed and return lines out of it. So after my attempt at a Darwin award, I spent a good chunk of time cleaning up my stupidity. The silver lining in the debacle of removing the fuel rails was I found out the fuel feed line's O ring was pretty much toast, so Jerry is getting more of my money. Happily, I might add, I'm glad Jerry and a handful of other guys actually keep an inventory to service these great Vettes. So the injectors were IN THERE as far as trying to remove them attached to the rails as an assembly, so the clips were removed and the rails were just pulled off the injectors. And, again, I'm glad I dug into here because whoever replaced the fuel injectors got all the clips into the injectors on the passenger side, but none of these clips were securing the entire driver side rail.

Injector housings are off and everything is taped up. Spent half the day cleaning up gas because. Well, we've bottomed out at this point, now it's just clean clean clean and get it all back together with new gaskets and parts. Glad I dug in here. I also found out my secondary linkage is still a thing after talking with Marc. Per his email response for my chip info:

"The BFXBG2 chip is for a stock LT5. The secondaries open at about 35% throttle opening. The chip can be modified for full time operation." I prefer to keep the secondaries and linkage at the moment so I'll make sure all the vac actuators are still operating properly with the linkage.





ALSO, I need someone to verify the below pic correct orientation for the belt tensioner. When I found my tensioner riding the crank pulley, it was installed this way with the machined notch on the back of the pulley fitted into the 8 O'clock notch. In this position, it was pointing at the water pump and the tensioner pulley riding the crank pulley. If I rotate this to the notch that is at 4 O'clock, the pulley is pointing pretty much up where it should be in the manuals and diagram in the engine bay. The belt is a brownish color version which I'm guessing is a replacement. Am I correct in that the notch on the pulley tensioner should be in the notch on the right?


Last edited by 1985 Corvette; 04-22-2019 at 05:50 PM.
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Old 04-22-2019, 06:04 PM
  #62  
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We’ve all been there, I’ve taken my share of gasoline baths. Lol. Your doing a great job. Make sure you test all the secondary components for leaks and replace the check valve whether it’s bad or not. Those things are usually the first to go and their cheap. I’m always amazed at poor quality of previous work you find when you get in there. In some cases people actually paid for that. Take a picture of your tensioner and send it to Mark (me if you like) to confirm it’s actually a LT5 tensioner. I’m starting to wonder if some slapped an L98 tensioner in there and tried to make it work. I don’t remember offhand which notch the tensioner lug engages.
H
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Old 04-25-2019, 07:41 PM
  #63  
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Alright guys, I need someone who has had a good deal of time staring at their open secondary butterflies to help me out. I would like to delete these, but Marc confirmed full power mode on my chip is only on past 35% throttle. I have plans to put the headers on once they are coated, so having the chip altered for that and full power mode for $200 makes more sense than mailing out the chip several times. Honestly, I'm ready to drive it and I'd like to get this all wrapped up tomorrow and get it out on the road for a few short trips to burp the coolant system.

Here's what's going on: At full travel, as in the actuator lever arm fully contracted against the metal stop on the bracket, the linkage has fully pulled open cylinders 2 and 8 on the passenger side perfectly. 4 and 6 butterflies are not fully open. so if 2 and 8 butterflies are clocked pointing straight up and down at 12 and 6 o'clock, then cylinder 4 and 6 butterflies are pointing at almost 11 and 5 o'clock. The threaded rods the little arms go onto have the half moon shape, so there's only one way to put it on. These same butterflies that are not opening all the way are also not closing fully like the outsides do. Marc said the closing part wasn't an issue as long as they opened like they should. This same "issue" is present on the other bank of cylinders: outside cylinders open perfect, middle two same clocked angle not fully opened.

I'm sweating the little details but don't want to button everything up if this one is an issue.
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Old 04-25-2019, 08:24 PM
  #64  
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I‘m confused, are you eliminating the secondaries and having Mark program the chip accordingly?
H
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Old 04-25-2019, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ccmano View Post
IĎm confused, are you eliminating the secondaries and having Mark program the chip accordingly?
H
That was the plan I had in mind, as based off past two owner's comments, the full power mode was on all the time. I decided to check with Marc who was able to give me all the info on the chip calibration and what they said is not the case. If it's not on all the time, I didn't want to chance it and at this point I really want to drive again. The car ran strong before I broke down the top end. I'm assuming the angle of the butterflies on the middle cylinders is normal with full travel of linkage.
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Old 04-25-2019, 09:35 PM
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Ok, yes what you see is just slop in the system. There is nothing adjustable about the secondary linkage. When air is flowing over the throttle plates it forces them into the 12 oíclock position anyway.

As far as removing the secondaries itís really pretty simple. You remove all the secondary vacuum lines, the actuators, the solenoid, the vacuum canister and the vacuum pump. I unscrewed the secondary throttle plates from the shafts and removed them. Donít drop the screws into the intake! I then wired the linkage open so that the shafts stood the 12 oíclock position. (the shafts are flat on one side, where the plates mount, curved on the other). Then install your new chip and your good to go. If you have a 90í remember to keep the power key in the full power position at all times or pull the switch and bridge the two wires in the back. On 91í+ Mark will program the full power to stay on all the time. Some people go to the trouble of removing the linkage, the shafts and plugging the shaft holes in the heads. To me, if you do that the process is now no longer reversible. Thatís it, your call.
H
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Old 04-25-2019, 09:47 PM
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Ends up looking like this...

Last edited by ccmano; 04-25-2019 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 04-27-2019, 07:55 PM
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Thanks for the info, Ccmano. That's the goal eventually. I'm an idiot on the secondary butterflies: I just took needle nose pliers and held them while turned them to fully open, then tightened the retaining nut. It's all back together and running. Breather box was torqued to 7.5 lbs which seems like very little but Marc verified. I was not a fan of double checking all the vacuum lines before lowering plenum back on. Unfortunately, I can't drive it because the new Dayco pulley I put on the tensioner shredded within a minute of the car just warming up with the new coolant. I don't know what the hell is going on with this thing. The tensioner literally wants to force itself right onto the crank pulley. I can pull it up by hand a bit but need a ratchet to get it to full retract upwards. Only other option at this point is send it to Marc for a rebuild. I sent him pics of it and he didn't dispute it being an LT5 tensioner.

Are they SUPPOSED to ride the crank if no belt is on at all? Is this what happens when they are shot? Sorry, just frustrated. After the crap I found in there and the gas fumes for days and finally getting it back together I was really looking forward to driving it. Belt on it is an 80.5. I got a Gates 80.2 and it won't go on but I'll give it another try. I just don't see how that little difference will make up for a tensioner trying to point at the crank. The only other thing I can think of is there's a "pin hole stop 6mm" listed on the belt routing diagram. I don't know if that means there's supposed to be something machined in the block that stops the tensioner from travelling too far down but I didn't see it mentioned in the FSM or supplement.

Guys, I'm definitely stumped on this one. She's off the road for a while longer.

Last edited by 1985 Corvette; 04-27-2019 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 04-27-2019, 11:34 PM
  #69  
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Here’s mine with an 80.5 inch belt and with and 80 inch belt. I believe Haibeck recommends the 80 inch.

H





Last edited by ccmano; 04-27-2019 at 11:59 PM.
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Old 05-06-2019, 08:30 AM
  #70  
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J you doing any porting? Headers are a nice mod that give real gains..plus the sound. Think BBC!
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Old 05-06-2019, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette View Post
J you doing any porting? Headers are a nice mod that give real gains..plus the sound. Think BBC!
Hey, Ron. Not porting yet, thatís a next year project. I figured that same money was better spent on maintenance, restoration and little stuff. The whole suspension needs to be gone through and the factory rubber bushings are toast. Steering also has way too much play in it so rebuild time for the rack will be soon. Itís amazing phrases, ďhas been maintained so it continues to run and drive greatĒ should be taken lightly when seen in ads. The things I found during this plenum pull.

The headers are not the nicest ones you can get but they look an awful lot like a stainless works replica. I found a random new set on Amazon for $475 shipped so it was an impulse buy. I just didnít want to shell out an extra $1,000+ for SW. For my street driving, the difference between OBX and SW prob wouldnít be noticeable. I will say OBX beat the stock manifolds and straight piped into the Corsa should make for a rowdy exhaust note...maybe too rowdy.

These OBX headers will get a white lightning coat before I put them on. Taking my time with that though. I got everything back together after plenum pull and am enjoying driving it. Itís still pretty loud to me through the Corsa catback, hopefully itís not so loud I regret it. Seen a few guys in here take their carís exhaust back to stock and sell headers.
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Old 05-06-2019, 10:40 PM
  #72  
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No way Id go back to stock exhaust... Heres my Watsons, with Magna Flow bullet cats and full 3" Stainless works system.... I LOVE IT... Its not too much in my opinion.... I plan on doing a better video, just foolin around here....

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Old 05-07-2019, 10:27 AM
  #73  
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I drove the Z to L.A. last week, an 8 hour one way drive, 1000 miles round trip. The ran great. I have a full OBX exhaust system headers back with cats and I generally luv the sound. However, on that drive I discovered it does drone under load at 1500-1900 rpm. After that many hours in the car it got annoying real fast. It’s not a big issue for me because I don’t do long drives often and I can always downshift to get rid of it, but it does have me contemplating a Corsa system.
H
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