NX for fun
#42
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I personally think that direct port is the only way to go on an LT5. The motor just cost too much to messing around with other less exact methods. Besides the efficiency of the direct port can not be beat. I am very happy with mine.
Sorry to hear about your car "My Y Car".
Excellent pictures however.
Good luck.
Sorry to hear about your car "My Y Car".
Excellent pictures however.
Good luck.
#43
Le Mans Master
the NOS kit looks pretty good but I'm a bit nervous about using the injectors to supply the additinal fuel.
does anybody make a fogger kit with fuel and nitrous in a direct port setup.
I also like the maximizer computer setup to bring in the nitrous gradually.
seems like most folks that have played with nitrous have paid dearly. anyone make a truely reliable 150-200 HP direct port system with a computer control???
I've been thinking about nitrous for the ZR1 as the best way to build some serious power.
those 500 HP LS1/6 engines are tough to beat!!!
does anybody make a fogger kit with fuel and nitrous in a direct port setup.
I also like the maximizer computer setup to bring in the nitrous gradually.
seems like most folks that have played with nitrous have paid dearly. anyone make a truely reliable 150-200 HP direct port system with a computer control???
I've been thinking about nitrous for the ZR1 as the best way to build some serious power.
those 500 HP LS1/6 engines are tough to beat!!!
#44
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Am looking for an air filter housing and air intake, either aftermarket or stock replacement. I beleive Jeal used to make an aftermarket housing.
#45
Drifting
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The good thing about aluminum is it can be fixed. Send it to a welder. Cut the top off and get a sheet the same size and tac weld it to the top. Then cut the bottom out and make the welds all the way around underneath. That will allow you to clean up the welds from the outside and make for a smooth finish on them. All that is left is to weld up the bottom.
#46
Originally Posted by ZR1:
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The good thing about aluminum is it can be fixed. Send it to a welder. Cut the top off and get a sheet the same size and tac weld it to the top. Then cut the bottom out and make the welds all the way around underneath. That will allow you to clean up the welds from the outside and make for a smooth finish on them. All that is left is to weld up the bottom.[/B][/color]
#47
Le Mans Master
if you don't break something every now and then you just aren't trying hard enough.
saw Willie's nitrous setup - AWESOME!!! who engineers a good fogger setup. I also saw a setup with a spacer so the nozzles fit into the spacer without hacking up the manifold, nice!!!
looking for 150 HP that WON'T break the engine. adding 150 HP with a rebuild is kinda pricey!!! 450 is enough MOST of the time, but when those pesky vipers or Z06s, turbo LPE vettes ect... show up, I need another 150 progressive squeeze HP in reserve.
tia for any advice. looking long term, buy only once.
saw Willie's nitrous setup - AWESOME!!! who engineers a good fogger setup. I also saw a setup with a spacer so the nozzles fit into the spacer without hacking up the manifold, nice!!!
looking for 150 HP that WON'T break the engine. adding 150 HP with a rebuild is kinda pricey!!! 450 is enough MOST of the time, but when those pesky vipers or Z06s, turbo LPE vettes ect... show up, I need another 150 progressive squeeze HP in reserve.
tia for any advice. looking long term, buy only once.
#48
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I was actually referring to the plastic air filter housing and ducting. Its toast. I don't think I can weld it. I had noticed that Jeal had once created a nifty looking air filter housing and ducting. Was wondering if it was a one off or not.
Jim, thanks for the welding tip, never thought about cutting bottom off of the plenum and then welding the visible part up from underneath. Although if I use just an AL sheet above, it won't have the cool looking stock look, intead it will be rather bland.
This lesson was too painful, especially on my ZR-1, so the Nitrous is coming off and going onto one of my other cars. The LT5 is too expensive to fix, if another fluke causes me to grenade the intake or maybe the engine. Now to find a killer painter, to make a top quality paint job and then regulate this car to garage/trailer queen.
I'll make my other cars go fast. Heck if I grenade an 87 Vette's intake or engine it won't take much $$$ to fix it.
Jim, thanks for the welding tip, never thought about cutting bottom off of the plenum and then welding the visible part up from underneath. Although if I use just an AL sheet above, it won't have the cool looking stock look, intead it will be rather bland.
This lesson was too painful, especially on my ZR-1, so the Nitrous is coming off and going onto one of my other cars. The LT5 is too expensive to fix, if another fluke causes me to grenade the intake or maybe the engine. Now to find a killer painter, to make a top quality paint job and then regulate this car to garage/trailer queen.
I'll make my other cars go fast. Heck if I grenade an 87 Vette's intake or engine it won't take much $$$ to fix it.
#49
Burning Brakes
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You have the typical syndromes after a bad nitrous experience.
My first NOs experience was with my 91 TPi vette. First time out I totaled the car and ended up in the hospital. Broken ribs, and 8 steeches on my head.
Then a friend of mine blew up his hood, intake and bottom end with a simple Nitrous dry kit installation that went south .
Some how as soon as he opened the bottle the nitrous started flooding the intake.. and BOOM!!!
But you get over it. Look where I am right now.
If you want to be safe just go with a direct port system. Anybody's nozzle is good.
One thing on the Zr-1's is that you want the NOS to kick in at WOT and when the secondaries are open.
There is a pink wire that comes out of the ECM that ground the secondaries to open. All you have to do is connect the ground from your solenoids relay to this wire. Like this the NOS won't even work if the power key is off, or the socondaries are not open.
I've had good experiend with the dry kit from NOS. But they are only good for like 125 hp. The Fuel distribution is ok, because it uses the factory injectors.
However if you want more power the Direct port is the only way. Plan on spending about 1500 in parts (fittings, pump, regulator) , and maybe 800-1000 in labor.....
But it will FLY!!!!!
Julio
My first NOs experience was with my 91 TPi vette. First time out I totaled the car and ended up in the hospital. Broken ribs, and 8 steeches on my head.
Then a friend of mine blew up his hood, intake and bottom end with a simple Nitrous dry kit installation that went south .
Some how as soon as he opened the bottle the nitrous started flooding the intake.. and BOOM!!!
But you get over it. Look where I am right now.
If you want to be safe just go with a direct port system. Anybody's nozzle is good.
One thing on the Zr-1's is that you want the NOS to kick in at WOT and when the secondaries are open.
There is a pink wire that comes out of the ECM that ground the secondaries to open. All you have to do is connect the ground from your solenoids relay to this wire. Like this the NOS won't even work if the power key is off, or the socondaries are not open.
I've had good experiend with the dry kit from NOS. But they are only good for like 125 hp. The Fuel distribution is ok, because it uses the factory injectors.
However if you want more power the Direct port is the only way. Plan on spending about 1500 in parts (fittings, pump, regulator) , and maybe 800-1000 in labor.....
But it will FLY!!!!!
Julio
#50
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Re: (Mr Y Car)
Just got a quote to weld up my plenum. $600-$700. I think this is a little steep. Now to call Lingenfelter, Kirchhofer, and whoever else may do weld jobs or have spare plenums.
#51
Drifting
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Re: (Mr Y Car)
Well, it is going to be a bit expensive. Call Kirchhofer and see what he can do. Now Bill is a friend of mine, but I have to say the work is functional but needs a bit of cosmetic work. You will need to do some sanding when you get it back to make it look the way you want.
#53
Team Owner
Re: (z06bliss)
Dumb question - what's it cost to just go ahead and replace the whole plenum assembly ?
#54
Melting Slicks
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Re: (Phil DeJohn)
Cheap HP ends up costing BIG MONEY.
You should post a pic of your rear window. :cool:
#55
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Cruise-In I Veteran
possible causes!
Just a couple of observations based on what I've read here and am aware of on the outside.
1. 170 or so MPH... best guess sounds like you hit the rev limiter to me and with the fuel shut down, super lean comes to mind and yes, nitrous will more than likely backfire big time as you come off the limiter and the fuel returns. You did say you don't run a window switch, right?
2. And Kurt, lifting the ring lands on a piston is the most likely the result of low bottle pressure which makes the wet system run very RICH. Don't believe you were running a bottle heater at the time, right?
These are just educated guesses, so your mileage may vary.
Ya don't want to run rich or lean with a wet system.. can be bad news either way. Run low bottle pressure and RICH is the result. Hit the rev limiter and LEAN is the result. Use a bottle heater and watch the pressure, use a window switch or an rpm switch to keep from tagging the limiter. Run a nitrous line filter to keep junk out of your solenoid (experience speaking here on a C-5)
best,
Nathan
1. 170 or so MPH... best guess sounds like you hit the rev limiter to me and with the fuel shut down, super lean comes to mind and yes, nitrous will more than likely backfire big time as you come off the limiter and the fuel returns. You did say you don't run a window switch, right?
2. And Kurt, lifting the ring lands on a piston is the most likely the result of low bottle pressure which makes the wet system run very RICH. Don't believe you were running a bottle heater at the time, right?
These are just educated guesses, so your mileage may vary.
Ya don't want to run rich or lean with a wet system.. can be bad news either way. Run low bottle pressure and RICH is the result. Hit the rev limiter and LEAN is the result. Use a bottle heater and watch the pressure, use a window switch or an rpm switch to keep from tagging the limiter. Run a nitrous line filter to keep junk out of your solenoid (experience speaking here on a C-5)
best,
Nathan
#56
Melting Slicks
Re: (z06bliss)
Well - someone out there has to have a freakin' plenum for the beauty 4 valve jobber
#57
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toasted NX
The intake is being repaired. The intake that was installed was ported and polished, any replacement intake would require the same treatment and the cost would quickly eclipse the repair price.
I wish I had hit the rev limiter, then I would have know what was the root cause. Unfortunately I had not hit it. The Nitrous kit installed also had a low fuel pressure kill switch as well as a low nitrous pressure kill switch. I also had it wired to a relay to kill the nitrous, should the service engine soon light come on.
I wish I had hit the rev limiter, then I would have know what was the root cause. Unfortunately I had not hit it. The Nitrous kit installed also had a low fuel pressure kill switch as well as a low nitrous pressure kill switch. I also had it wired to a relay to kill the nitrous, should the service engine soon light come on.