U-joint About to Check Out..........
#1
Racer
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Location: Clemson SC
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Thought it was my wheel bearings at first, but my bro confirmed it was the U-joint. He recommends to go ahead and put in whole new halfshafts that come with the U-joints. It's MUCh cheaper than I thought(around $120 for the halfshaft assembly). Anyways, my question is would you recommend to switch out my one bad U-joint(with a Spicer of course), replace all 4 u-joints, or replace the whole damn thing(both halfshafts and all 4 u-joints? I know its my call, but of course most 19 year olds like myself are on a tight budget. But I also would like to be done with it for good since it's not really that $$ with all things considered...
To make a long story short, are halfshaft's known to check out at all on vettes?
As always, TIA
John
To make a long story short, are halfshaft's known to check out at all on vettes?
As always, TIA
John
#2
Burning Brakes
Clemson:
I cannot think of one good reason for you to replace the halfshaft itself. That really isn't a piece that is subject to 'wearing' in the conventional sense. What reason did you brother give that you should replace the halfshafts??
Do you have some sort of a vibration perhaps that he says changing them might fix?(usually it's the driveshaft with the balance weights). YOu are correct in replacing with the original SPicer U-joints. LPE uses those in his 415 packages(or so he says ) and I think SW can attest to(1.5 60ft times with independant rear)their 'meatiness.' I say replace all the u-joints on the halfshafts(4) and be done with it. Use the money you save by not buying the halfshafts and put it towards some Tri-Flos. Be prepared to wait though. I've been waiting 4.5 weeks for my new Tri-Flos with a tentative(I say that because they've moved my build date back twice now) build date of Tueday. Seems everyone the car world over is hearing that they make incredible power, now without resonance
I cannot think of one good reason for you to replace the halfshaft itself. That really isn't a piece that is subject to 'wearing' in the conventional sense. What reason did you brother give that you should replace the halfshafts??
Do you have some sort of a vibration perhaps that he says changing them might fix?(usually it's the driveshaft with the balance weights). YOu are correct in replacing with the original SPicer U-joints. LPE uses those in his 415 packages(or so he says ) and I think SW can attest to(1.5 60ft times with independant rear)their 'meatiness.' I say replace all the u-joints on the halfshafts(4) and be done with it. Use the money you save by not buying the halfshafts and put it towards some Tri-Flos. Be prepared to wait though. I've been waiting 4.5 weeks for my new Tri-Flos with a tentative(I say that because they've moved my build date back twice now) build date of Tueday. Seems everyone the car world over is hearing that they make incredible power, now without resonance
#3
Racer
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Bryan, already got a Flowmaster system waiting to go on. I guess my brother thought it would be cheaper in the long run to go ahead and get new half's since they come with U-joints already fitted and it comes out cheaper. There's no vibration(from the shafts anyways), so I plan on just replacing my one bad U-joint. Its the driver's side at the wheel BTW, it seems like that's always the one to break. Do you think the other 3 would be susceptible? I've only heard stories of that one U-joint going bad, but I guess anybody could hear alot.
BTW, I found the Spicer's at NAPA, but they told me it would be hard for them to order since they're switching to ALL NAPA parts.
Are they any other distributors?
BTW, I found the Spicer's at NAPA, but they told me it would be hard for them to order since they're switching to ALL NAPA parts.
Are they any other distributors?