Super_Vette

I was just curious after reading a few threads as to how much HP a stock LS1 engine can handle? I’ve seen that people are running LS2’s and LQ9’s. What is the difference between all of them? The ci’s? I’d like to run a turbo set up on my vette and run low 11’s high 10’s could a LS1 (w/ stock internals) handle that?

Silver SS

Its all in the tune

Scott

MissZ06

Running low 11.x can be done easy.

1) Drag radials
2) 4.10 gear
3) headers
4) Vararam
5) 150 wet shot

Engine will handle it fine as long as the wet kit is tuned right.

mdhmi

Most people will tell you 500-550 rwhp is a reasonably safe limit to push a stock bottom end. The weak link is usually the pistons. You can certainly make more power on the stocker, but you know the old saying: "Don't bring to Vegas what you can't afford to lose".

LS2's are a newer block made out of aluminum and LQ9's are older iron truck blocks that were commonly bored and stroked out to make 408 ci motors.

The advantage of the LS2 is that it is a solid 80 pounds lighter than an iron block. The disadvantage of the LS2 is that there are some harnesses and sensors that have to be moved/adjusted.

Yes, but the question becomes for how long.. Tuning is absolutely critical when it comes to keeping a stock motor alive with boost.

After doing a ProCharger on a stock bottom end followed by a heads/cam turbo (still stock bottom end) followed by a different heads/cam forged bottom end combo I would highly recommend you start boosted life with forged internals. It will save you a great deal of time and money (and potential downtime) in the long run.

I would also point out that a forged stock displacement LS1/6 (346) is –more- than sufficient to meet your needs.

Good luck,

Mark

DSOM Z06

Forging is probably a good idea, unfortunately the additional money necessary to forge (approx. $6000 with installation) makes it cost prohibitive for some though probably a good idea in the long run. If you have $8000 to spend and you are a modaholic chances are that you go for the boost and pray rather than forge and save up your pennies (for who knows how long) in order to boost down the line sometimes. Unfortunately many of us will have to learn the hard way before doing it right the first time.

mdhmi

Pay me now or pay me later holds true in this regard.. It's more expensive to do later (at a minimum you will pay for duplicate labor).

Mr. Big

I ran mid 10's with the stock block. I would say if you had a safe tune it could be done with no problems. The only problem is it only takes 1 mior thing to go wrong, or just a hint of detonation and the pistons will take a crap. If that happens you could ruin other things you have to replace besides just the short block. You don't want to buy a new block and pan...ect. Forge now and save later.

FWIW i made over 700 RWHP on the stock block and ran a 10.5

SmoothFRC

Maybe a stupid question..... but, can you just upgrade the pistons and rings with the motor in the car? and be done with it?

Was just thinking in my head that we could pull the heads off and drop the cradle, assuming you have a hoist to hold the motor up in the car, why couldnt you unbolt the rods from the crank and push them up and out of the motor?

Is that just stupid, and it is easier to pull the motor?

I just hear people say it is around 2-4k to forge a motor, and i think it is really only the pistons that we would need to change out to increase the amount of power we can throw at our motors.

i am not a motor guy, so this could just all be silly thinking on my behalf.

Super_Vette

Wow, Thanks for the advice. I guess if I'm going to do it I might as well do it right. I have made that mistake with my GTP going with the short term pay off then having to go re-do something later. I'll look into the forged internals. Thanks again.

mdhmi

Nope. There is a lot of machining and balancing to do it right. Plus it's not just rods and pistons, it's also bearings, boost friendly rings, ARP main bolts, etc.

DSOM Z06

Unless something breaks which is not catastrophic and is caught in time. As for me I am not a track person.....if I run the 1/4 mile 5 times in one day, once per year, that's about it. Will being at or near the 3K RPM level alot be harmful? With the 3.90's on an A4 I tend to cruise the highway at a much higher RPM because of the gearing.

Warp Factor

I suppose it could be done if you managed to match the weight of the new pistons and rods to the originals.
It's nice to have everything re-machined to specs though.
Isn't the timing chain another issue? If you're doing that, might as well throw a cam in. Since the heads are off anyway, how about some aftermarket heads? Somewhere along the line, it might be easier to jerk the motor.

mdhmi

I agree. I think it's pretty lame to do a boosted motor without doing heads, cam, intake (depending what you already have), ARP main and head bolts, boost friendly rings, pistons, rods, etc. To each his own.

SmoothFRC

I was just thinking a low cost option. I imagine you could change the rod and main bolts while under the car.

just thinking out loud....