Best location for O2 bung on Kooks headers..
03-24-2007, 04:59 PM
#1
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St. Jude Donor '06 & '12
Best location for O2 bung on Kooks headers..
I installed my LC-1 last night, but I didnt exactly know where the optimal location for the O2 bung was.
If I'm running Kooks headers with cat and an X-Pipe, where is the best spot for the bung to be welded?? I was hoping to do it right at the X but since there after the cats that wouldnt be worth while.
I wont run 2 sensors. So I figured the pass header would be the best. But Where on the header should I weld it??
If I'm running Kooks headers with cat and an X-Pipe, where is the best spot for the bung to be welded?? I was hoping to do it right at the X but since there after the cats that wouldnt be worth while.
I wont run 2 sensors. So I figured the pass header would be the best. But Where on the header should I weld it??
03-25-2007, 10:35 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
I installed my LC-1 last night, but I didnt exactly know where the optimal location for the O2 bung was.
If I'm running Kooks headers with cat and an X-Pipe, where is the best spot for the bung to be welded?? I was hoping to do it right at the X but since there after the cats that wouldnt be worth while.
I wont run 2 sensors. So I figured the pass header would be the best. But Where on the header should I weld it??
If I'm running Kooks headers with cat and an X-Pipe, where is the best spot for the bung to be welded?? I was hoping to do it right at the X but since there after the cats that wouldnt be worth while.
I wont run 2 sensors. So I figured the pass header would be the best. But Where on the header should I weld it??
HEY JEFF
I GOT RANDOM CATS,AND PUT TWO BUNGS IN EACH CAT(PRE CAT)
WHEN I INSTALLED THE SYSTEM.MAINLY TO HOOK UP A WIDEBAND
WHEN ON THE DYNO.PUT THE BUNGS IN AN AREA WHICH WOULD BE EASY TO GET AT.THERE PROBABLY IS AN OPTIMUM POSITION,BUT DONT KNOW IF IT WOULD MAKE THAT MUCH DIFFERENCE .LONG AS ITS
BEFORE CATS?
I JUST GOT EFILIVE.AND WANT TO GET A WIDEBAND 02.I UNDERSTAND
THE DIFF BETTWEEN STOCK/WIDE.
ARE YOU CONNECTING THIS UP TO THE CAR HARNESS,IF SO DOES THAT THEN GIVE A BETTER SIGNAL SO THE PCM CAN MAKE BETTER
ADJUSTMENTS.OR WILL IT BE JUST A TOOL TO TUNE.
ALSO WILL YOU STILL RUN THE OTHER 3 STOCK 02`S
??????
SORRY IF I HAVE GOT OF TRACK A LITTLE.
DAVE
03-25-2007, 04:53 PM
#3
I'm also running catted LTs (different brand) and what I did was weld the bung on the drivers side cat, for a few reasons:
1) The driver side, per info on LS1 Tech, is reported to run a bit leaner than the passenger side.
2) The headers are installed, and it was much easier to remove a cat than the drivers side header, and even if the header was out...
3) I can spin the cat to line up the sensor exactly where I want it, pointed as far up from horizontal as I could. Welding on the header introduced some measurement and alignment error that I didn't want to deal with.
1) The driver side, per info on LS1 Tech, is reported to run a bit leaner than the passenger side.
2) The headers are installed, and it was much easier to remove a cat than the drivers side header, and even if the header was out...
3) I can spin the cat to line up the sensor exactly where I want it, pointed as far up from horizontal as I could. Welding on the header introduced some measurement and alignment error that I didn't want to deal with.
03-25-2007, 06:33 PM
#4
Safety Car
Here is some pics of how I installed mine. I placed the 02 sensor in the same plane as the stock 02 sensor. I placed mine on the passenger side, even though people say to use the driver side. The reason I did that was because the LC-1 doesn't have very much cable, and I figured that would point it towards the side I wanted the LC-1 to be at. But it probably doesn't make any difference.
I then milled some slots into my tunnel plate, and ran the cables thru it. It's kind of a PITA, but it keeps the wiring on top away from the headers.
For me, there wasn't a whole lot of choices. There just isn't much room for a sensor. I hope your kooks doesn't have the 4 bolt flanges. Those are a real PITA to get to the top bolts. Also, after about 30 minutes of driving, my LC-1 goes on the blink. I think it's from getting too hot. So now I need to make a brass heat sink for it.
I tig welded mine up myself at work, with the header off the car since I don't have a welder at home. If you do that, tack weld it first, then prefit it to make sure it clears everything.
I then milled some slots into my tunnel plate, and ran the cables thru it. It's kind of a PITA, but it keeps the wiring on top away from the headers.
For me, there wasn't a whole lot of choices. There just isn't much room for a sensor. I hope your kooks doesn't have the 4 bolt flanges. Those are a real PITA to get to the top bolts. Also, after about 30 minutes of driving, my LC-1 goes on the blink. I think it's from getting too hot. So now I need to make a brass heat sink for it.
I tig welded mine up myself at work, with the header off the car since I don't have a welder at home. If you do that, tack weld it first, then prefit it to make sure it clears everything.
