Vette_Fan

Woww.. I'm saving this thread to My Favorites . Lottsa info. Since we have a lot of Oil Gurus here, may I ask what a guy like me should use. My car is all stock (totally factory). Just using a simple Blackwing intake, a shift kit for the A4 Tranny. Anyways, I want the BEST possible oil for the engine, reducing the wear and BETTER Lubrication. Already using Mobile1, 5w-30. Considering Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline.... Any suggestions for a non-modded enging... (sorry, its out of context) Thanks

Twin Screws

I believe you are in the wrong section of the website...this discussion is centered around FI vettes. You probably can get some great advice from the C5 Tech forum.

C66 Racing

I like your hot psi's and those are pretty much what my stock motor sees on the track running a 10w40 (which should have similar viscosity to your 0w40 when hot).

I agree - oils and tires are tough choices when trying to find something for the street and track. As I say on the tire threads, there is no one right answer and if you want a dual use tire (or oil), it's going to be a compromise.

German Castrol 0w30 is a really good oil and I have a couple used oil analysis results of it as well from a different forum member when we did a little comparo of the CG vs AMSOIL Series 2000 (now discontinued for the Signature Series 0w30).
Used Oil Analysis Comparison: German Castrol 0w30 vs AMSOIL Series 2000 0w30

But, I think you are better off with your 0w40 in your motor than going to a 0w30.

Twin Screws

Though LPE recommends and Mobil1 sells it as specific to FI cars, in doing some research there does not seem to be a lot of support for using a 50 wieght oil. Thoughts are it is too thick, it is not ideally suited for the tolerences of the LSx engines, and builds unnecessary heat and oil pressure.

INTHERED

Does anyone use Redline oil ? Reading from their webpage Its sounds like it would be the trick setup for cars with high engine temperatures. I know a lot of folks who use it at the track but none of them are FI vette guys.


INTHERED

AlwaysInBoost

I've used redline oil in my EVO before, but it was before I stared sending oil samples to Blackstone labs for analysis. I've only been using Royal Purple oils in my cars for the last year or so and all my oil reports come back great.

Now, I use their (redline) heavyweight shockproof (pink stuff) in the transfer case & rear of that car and I haven't had a problem with either. That car is driven hard to, with 88k currently on the odo, some 200 1/4 mile passes a few HPDE's and about 10 or so autox's.

I just recently put some 75w90NS in the rear of the vette, along with their friction modifier, when I changed all the driveline fluid two weekend ago. I used RP Syncomax ATF in the trans BTW.

Shinobi'sZ

That is interesting to hear because some of the reading I have done on the Royal Purple (while excellant for NA setups) has suggested that in Turbo setups that it doesn't hold up well at high temperatures. But if your using it in your Evo and your test results come back great...it's hard to argue with or disprove. Let me ask this how hard to you run your Evo do you know what your turbine temps or egts are?

Personally I don't pay attention to egts on my Vette only on my D-Max when I'm towing something.

The point of the question is do you feel that you have ran the Evo hard enough to create higher then normal driving temperatures that would lead to viscosity break down or high temp shear. If not this might be why your test results come back great because it is really operating much like an NA setup would.

I am not as concerned with temperatures from 100-200* as much as I am with temps from 201-250* +.

Although I installed my 25 Row Earl's oil cooler last weekend and my oil temps would not go above 80* idling.:o

BobJ

You know what they say about opinions! . Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, Mobil 1, everyone has their data, their preferences, their good experiences, maybe a nightmare story, what their mechanic and their Dad told them to use.

All of the above mentioned synthetics are high quaility (as well as many others), the key is to change it at the proper interval proportionate to the conditions you put the vehicle in.

Choosing oil is like choosing underwear, choose the one that fits. Me.....I like Jockey Boxer Briefs.....and I use Mobil 1 and change it every 5k.

AlwaysInBoost

those are good questions.

I feel I do run my car very hard on track days, BUT I change the fluids VERY frequently, which I think contributes some of the results I've had. When I say 'hard', I mean 4 full 30 minute sessions on a road course in the middle of the summer. The last one was @ shenandoah in Virgina and the temps were in the 90s with close to 100% humidity. It was extreamly HOT and my oil temp gauge was between 120-130*C (only glanced at the gauge on the straights). IMO you just can generate the kind of heat on the street as you can on a road course. I beat the car so hard that day I wasn't expecting to be able to drive it back but to my surprise everything is A OK and has been since.

I don't pay much attention to EGT really. There are other ways to determine if you are too far past your MBT. Besides, its not an indicator of how well you're oil is working, I can get EGT's to spike sky high if I wanted to before the oil is even warmed up, hehe. Having said that I don't have an EGT gauge on that car but I am able to log just about everything the ECU sees plus some extra stuff (EVO's ECU's are basically open source, very cool what you can do with them, but thats another topic all together). The last time I pulled the turbine housing off, which was only a couple months ago, the turbine blades still looked new. No signs of EGT's being too high. I've witnessed turbo cars running race gas and spraying, with their EGT's so high it melted the turbine blades off the shaft.

Shinobi'sZ

So the you have clearly put it to the test then. I agree with regular interval oil changes...especially running on the track....what is the saying every 1 mile on the track is equal to a 1K miles on the street. Following that logic after 7 miles on the track you would hit 7K miles pretty quick.

I was thinking more about how hot the bearings get when the turbine gets really hot the EGTs do heat the housing which will in turn heat he bearings...but hell you are tracking your car which is the most abusive.

Yes the Japanese are still ahead of the game when it comes to computers and making things easier to do with them. I have a friend that visits from Japan when he is doing MMA seminars...he is always bringing over the smallest cell phones and gadgets...it takes us 1-2 years before we see it over here...if at all.

AlwaysInBoost

^^ I didn't realize thats why you were asking about EGT's. Yes it makes sense about the journal bearing seeing some high temps, I don't have any shaft play on the stock turbo so it (the oil) must be doing its job. But I also drive a cool down lap or two and then drive slowly around the pit area/paddock to cool everything off as much as I can. Not a fan of turbo timers, I think they are a complete waste of $.

Yeah, you wouldn't believe the stuff you can do now with a STOCK EVO ECU. Its almost like an Standalone ENgine Management. There are people all over the world cracking into them and re-writing the code. For example on my ECU I add a NLTS feature that drops rev's to whatever RPM I tell it to when the clutch is pushed in. There are switchable maps, valet mode, a knock light that will flash your CEL (check engine light) when a predertermened amount of knock has been reached <--- that one I love because on the road course you can tell when you are knocking and just lift, allowing the motor to stay together. Those are just a FEW of the features people have programed into the EVO ECU. I could talk all day about this stuff but its not an EVO board, or thread for that matter, so thats all I'm going to say about that.

D C

slothy

used it in my chopper and vette - cant say its any better or worse the mobil.

felo357

go to the RP web and read about the racing oil line that they have is call XPR and they thalk about the diference applications including methanol user and nos.

Shinobi'sZ

I actually ended up going with Shell Rotella T (Full Syn) 5w-40. Comes in Gallon jugs and cost about $20. It's going in really soon...sitting on the shelf in the garage right now.

D C

debating on the whole issue. I would like to run the XPR but just seem to not be able to justify the cost in comparison to the others.
on the fence between Mobil 15/50 and Rotella that Shinobi is using.

ONE BMF

ROYAL PURPLE 10w-30 READ ON GENTS http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

Mopar Jimmy

Great info!

D C

How about the regular RP 10w-30, not the Racing or XPR type?

Amazon has it right now for a case of 12 for $72.

Shinobi'sZ

Dude that test has been posted on here for maybe the last 4-5 years. And I thought it was concluded it was done and sponsored by Royal Purple...and that for FI RP doesn't withstand heat that well.

It's been repeated for a long time now to say the least.