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A&A Corvette Performance:Forced Induction Q&A thread

 
Old 04-16-2009, 01:39 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
we don't do the dipstick return thing anymore... not the best way. Drill the pan! Don't be scuuured.
haha... i heard removing the pan was a b!tch to do!! Guess im stuck this way regardless now lol
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Old 04-16-2009, 01:46 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by chris308 View Post
haha... i heard removing the pan was a b!tch to do!! Guess im stuck this way regardless now lol

Removing the pan is not that bad... if the engine is out of the car...
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Old 04-17-2009, 11:47 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by chris308 View Post
sure thing!





this is the bracket i have, still work or need to hack? Thanks for answering my questions and helping me on this
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Old 04-17-2009, 01:17 PM
  #24  
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You will have to machine those 3 bosses down. Or you can pick up our new bracket.
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Old 04-17-2009, 01:19 PM
  #25  
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You can see in the new bracket we put a semi circle cut for this issue...

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Old 05-11-2009, 08:15 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Feel free to use this thread as a Q&A forum. It'll always be at the top for quick reference. I'll answer any questions about blowers, fuel system upgrades, engine combinations etc. Others are welcome to chime in with pertinent information, dyno and performance results or questions about my system.
Remember, I distribute and install Vortech, Magnuson, Procharger, Racetronix fuel systems, Kenne Bell Boost A Pumps, Eagle cranks and rods, Comp Cams, Diamond Pistons, AFR heads, 8 rib pulley systems, Methanol injection kits, as well as a host of trick supercharger upgrades. I'll be glad to answer questions about any of these also.
It was suggested that I post my setup to the blower guys for your input on what stall converter I purchase since I eventually plan on adding a charger.

I am trying to keep my 97 C5 capable of being a DD while wanting the most I can get on the 1/8 mile track at the same time. It has stock LS1internals, Cold Air, Bassani X-Pipe & HF Cats, Borla Exhaust and 3.42 rear diff.

It is now trans and TC time! Dave at Yank once recommended the SS3200 and he is now recommending the SS3600 with the 3.42 gears. My tastes won't let me stay to conservative but I don't want to totally blow it as a true streat machine. The SS3600 kind of scares me regarding true streetability. I calculate that 3400 stall would be my best for the 1/8 right now and I am considering a charger next and Dave did say that the SS3600 may be too much once I add a blower. The street side of me says 3200 max or 2800 better yet on the converter. Comments/Suggestions???
Con

I would like to here more about true streetability from some with the experience.
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Old 06-01-2009, 03:38 PM
  #27  
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First off I have to say that the kit I had installed looks and performs very well. However as a service to all future C5 customers I think it would be great if you would put in your manual that one should loctite the cam bolts. The front end is already torn down anyways, it would no sweat to do this as part of the install.
Having to now tear down my engine after 2 days of driving with the new blower to tighten down the cam bolts is very frustrating to say the least.

Thanks
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Old 06-01-2009, 04:02 PM
  #28  
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I put 128,000 ridiculously hard miles on my car and the cam bolts never backed out, why would A&A be responsible for telling you to do something that should never have to be done in the first place? And if you replaced your cam, then go to their forum and flame on them, they'll tell you the same thing. Sorry about your luck and I hope nothing was damaged, but it doesn't belong in this thread or their instruction manual. After all, the kit doesn't come with a cam shaft, or at least mine didn't.
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Old 06-01-2009, 04:27 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by B Neat View Post
I put 128,000 ridiculously hard miles on my car and the cam bolts never backed out, why would A&A be responsible for telling you to do something that should never have to be done in the first place? And if you replaced your cam, then go to their forum and flame on them, they'll tell you the same thing. Sorry about your luck and I hope nothing was damaged, but it doesn't belong in this thread or their instruction manual. After all, the kit doesn't come with a cam shaft, or at least mine didn't.
Well I am very happy for you and your good fortune. A&A would consider doing this as a service to thier potential customers as good public relations. If it was my company I would do the same. It would cost them nothing to add a couple lines in the manual to make people aware of the potential problem.
BTW I did not swap cams but had I known of this potential problem I would have had them loctited as a precaution. My installer now knows of this potential problem and I am positive they will inform any future customers of it.
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Old 06-01-2009, 04:56 PM
  #30  
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Maybe it's just me, but I've never heard of this as an LSx issue. Has your cam ever been touched before? Maybe by a previous owner or something?
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:16 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by B Neat View Post
Maybe it's just me, but I've never heard of this as an LSx issue. Has your cam ever been touched before? Maybe by a previous owner or something?
I like you never heard of it either until the P0343 code came up on my display. After doing some research I find out that it is not that uncommon. This is why I am campaining to help any future people to not have to go through what I did.
The shop called me an hour ago and said indeed all 3 cam bolts were very loose ane one was about to come out completly. If I would have even drove it onto the flat bed it could have been fatal to the motor.

As I said the motor is untouched and has on 4000 miles on the car. The only thing that was done is the addition of the supercharger and headers.

Education can save you a lot of pain.
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Old 06-02-2009, 12:57 AM
  #32  
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4000 miles and you're complaining to A&A? Maybe you should be at your dealer complaining, That's a brand****ingnew car! Post all you want, I'm done.
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Old 06-02-2009, 10:56 AM
  #33  
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Well I would like to thank you for distorting my post into a complaint against A&A. I am glad you are done and wished you never started, it has nothing to do with you obviously.

So I would like to clarify that A&A Corvette, thier products and thier installers are all top notch and had absolutley nothing to do with the cam bolts backing out.
The fact is that some C5Z cars have the problem that when you supercharge the engine, with any supercharger, the extra stress on the motor causes the cam bolts to back out. I am just trying to make this aware to the people who are going to have forced induction installed.
When I was doing research about FI there was no mention of this problem that I could find. It was only when I researched the P0343 code that I found this issue, however too late.

If this offends the crew at A&A in any way I am sorry and you may delete all of my posts regarding this topic. Keep up the good work
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Old 06-02-2009, 01:47 PM
  #34  
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It's cool.... it's hard to say what we should or should not put in the manual. I'll make sure Andy sees this and then get his input on whether it should go in or not.

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Old 06-02-2009, 02:19 PM
  #35  
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Thank You
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Old 06-03-2009, 03:25 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by B Neat View Post
Maybe it's just me, but I've never heard of this as an LSx issue. Has your cam ever been touched before? Maybe by a previous owner or something?
How about doing a search in this forum with keyword "P0343"?

I had exactly the same issue with my LS6 and I remember back in 2005 when I thought about asking A&A to locktite my cam bolts when they were installing the kit as it's easy to do at that stage. Well, I forgot to do so and yes, can bolts did get loose when I was driving in a race circuit (not racing though).

I don't know, maybe this is a rare issue still, but I would do it for any LS6. It's anyway a simple task to do when installing an A&A supercharger and it also lets you clean any debris you're worried when drilling through oil pan.

Anyway, this is just my opinion. I'm not professional with this stuff.
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Old 06-03-2009, 10:21 PM
  #37  
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I searched, you're right. It seems that high horsepower has something to do with it, especially on low mileage cars. I doubt you would ever see it on a heads/cam car because most people locktite them. I agree 100%, it would be a good addition to the instructions. I notice the absence of threadlocker when I changed my cam a couple of weeks ago on my 128,000 mile motor, but they were all tight. Lucky me, I run the dog snot out of it, always have.
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Old 06-27-2009, 10:07 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by pcruiser73 View Post
I like you never heard of it either until the P0343 code came up on my display. After doing some research I find out that it is not that uncommon. This is why I am campaining to help any future people to not have to go through what I did.
The shop called me an hour ago and said indeed all 3 cam bolts were very loose ane one was about to come out completly. If I would have even drove it onto the flat bed it could have been fatal to the motor.

As I said the motor is untouched and has on 4000 miles on the car. The only thing that was done is the addition of the supercharger and headers.

Education can save you a lot of pain.


You eductated me today.............................:smash :
I will indeed loctite my cam bolts when I install my kit
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Old 06-29-2009, 07:03 PM
  #39  
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Andy and Steve

I recently bought one of your V2 Si packages with the 3.6 inch pulley. I have an 04 LS1 with long tube headers and a B&B PRT exhaust. I plan to upgrade the water pump, oil pump, timing chain, valve springs, etc. I have a target of a driveable 550 RWHP without methanol injection. First, is that possible without blowing up my engine? Should I stay with the stock cam or can you suggest one?

Thanks.
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Old 06-30-2009, 12:53 PM
  #40  
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Yes that is possible on a stock engine. I believe you have 93 octane down there, so that's good. I would change the cam since you are doing all the other goodies. Go with a mildish cam... around 218-232 on a 117 plus 3.
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