Josh@AandASuperchargers

It will be pushing the stock pump with just a BAP in my opinion. IF you have meth it probably can make it. Without meth probably reach the limit of stock pump.

C5ZAM

Just curious, I should be receiving my A&A kit today. What kind of numbers are we looking at with an auto c5 vette with just an exhaust and intake?

My goal is to achieve at minimum 500WHP and to not go over 530WHP until I build my trans.

Any others that would like to chime in on their kits and supporting modifications?

Thanks!

Josh@AandASuperchargers

Typically a C5 Auto makes 510-525 rwhp on my Dynojet and we have 91 octane.

King Lear

Also a big thing to consider what gears are u running in the rear? That will make a big difference on what you show on the dyno and what it acts like on the street.

C5ZAM

Everything on the car right now is stock. Im going to be running 18x11 and 18x12 ccws. 295 in front and 315 in rear. Will I need to upgrade the rear end? I plan on putting a torque convertor soon.

King Lear

I put in a 3.42 rear diff when I installed mine. Since the blower runs off RPM if you have the stock 2.73 gears you would be struggling IMO to ever get the RPMs high enough to really benefit from putting a blower on it. If you have the optional 3.15 rear end you'd be better off. A & A would be better to answer that question as I never ran the kit without the 3.42's in the rear.

C5ZAM

How will I be able to tell if I have the 3.15 as opposed to the 2.73? I dont know much about American diffs. I had a 97 Supra and upgraded the stock diff to a TRD diff and noticed a considerable difference. If I have the 3.15 ill stick with it, but if I have the 2.73 i'd like to go straight to the 3.42.

C5ZAM

And by the way King Lear, thank you.

Andy@A&ACorvette

I've been obsessing over this project for a couple of months now. I wanted to build a solid billet tensioner with all the best features I could pack into it. I think I have achieved that in this new tensioner/ bracket design.
First of all it is EXTREMELY STRONG. It has 4 bearings in it. Two thrust bearings and two lateral bearings to make sure there is NO DEFLECTION! Most, if not all, tensioners have aluminum rubbing on aluminum with "maybe" a plastic sleeve to separate them.
This design has a shaft that the bearings ride on made from precision machined .625" 304 stainless steel.
The two main halves of the tensioner are machined from 4 1/2" blocks of 6061 aluminum. I actually have some pretty cool pictures of the blocks in various stages of machining. I'll try to get those up tomorrow.
It features a LOCK MECHANISM so that you can easily move the tensioner to the open position and lock it in place. This allows you to remove your ratchet or wrench from the car and slip the belt in from the top unhindered without trying to hold the tensioner open with your other hand. Believe me, this a HUGE improvement over other designs.
BELT CHANGES ARE EASILY DONE FROM THE TOP WITH NO NEED TO REMOVE ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE INTAKE DUCT. This is done simply to allow your ratchet to have enough movement to retract the tensioner to the locked position. A "side of the road" belt change will not take much longer than replacing a stock belt.
IT IS "CLOCKABLE TO ALLOW CLEARANCE FOR STOCK AND OVERSIZE BALANCERS AND TO CHANGE SPRING PRELOAD. You can easily set the clearance between the tensioner pulley and the balancer. This way there is no danger of the tensioner pulley hitting the balancer in case you snap a belt. I hear complaints that other designs allow the pulley to hit the balancer and cause substantial damage when this happens.
Different springs will be available and can be changed easily. Obviously a YSi with a 2.85 pulley, 8 rib and secondary drive making 900 RWHP will require more spring pressure than an Si or Ti Trim with a 3.8 6 rib pulley making 600 RWHP. We will offer different spring rates for this reason.
YOU WILL NOT NEED TO PURCHASE A NEW BRACKET TO UPGRADE TO THIS NEW DESIGN The tensioner can be retrofitted to previous bracket designs for a minimal charge. The lower section will just be discarded. We will need to weld up one hole, mill and drill the upper half to accept the new tensioner.
ALL THE NEW BRACKET/ TENSIONERS WILL BE SET UP FOR 8 RIB DRIVE If using a 6 rib pulley we simply insert a .280" spacer behind the pulley to line everything up. Nothing in the bracket- tensioner setup will need to be changed to go to 8 rib.
This will be coming in all the kits shortly. The billet tensioner has nearly TRIPLE THE SPRING RATE AND DOUBLE THE TRAVEL of our previous tensioner.
Because the distance from the fulcrum to the centerline of the pulley is so long (triple the measurement of our old tensioner) the pulley follows a NEAR LINEAR TRAJECTORY rather than a short arc where the geometry between the belt and pulley changes considerably.
Here are a couple of videos. The on car installation took 1:43
The first run on this car made 847 RWHP without Meth with no belt issues at all. Hopefully we will get the Meth on it in a day or two and see what it can really do.
On all "oil fed" blowers (such as the YSi) we will now be including AN fittings and braided lines for the oil drain. This is something I have thought would be a nice addition for some time now.

Larzmat

That's a trick setup. Beats the long 6 rib belt process big time. What's the cost INC the flip drive?

schpenxel

That looks incredible. Great job

Josh@AandASuperchargers

Figure $400 for us to convert your SC bracket if you have the newer 2pc design. And then $750 for the 2nd drive kit for a C5.

CtZ0666

I just picked up a v3 si kit, I was wondering what kind of boost I would be seeing in a c5z with a stock lower, 3.4" pulley, Tick Blower Stage 1 223/235 | .615"/.605" | LSA116+5 cam, arh1 3/4 headers, and a alky kit.

Josh@AandASuperchargers

My guess is around 11-12lbs. Should be near 700rwhp, make sure you have the meth cranked up when you start tuning it.

CtZ0666

I think I'll step it down to the 3.6 pulley lol

fun Pain

I ordered the newer designed bracket for soon my soon to be Vortech supercharged hot rod. 3/23/2016

Can't weight to see it. Thank You, Josh

John

update: after reading this string, I realized I ordered a procharger bracket.....fail,

Josh is taking care of it....

Josh@AandASuperchargers

That's the order I changed to a Vortech style bracket cause it was ordered as a Procharger version correct? It will ship shortly.

StuntHeavy

Do you sell separately the hardware to mount the pulley to the tensioner? I've got the pulley, just not the hardware. Bought these used, and trying to piece them together still.

Josh@AandASuperchargers

That looks like Cartek bracket and not anything from us.

StuntHeavy

Yessir it is. I was pointed in your direction by another forum member who deals quite a bit of business with you guys and after breaking out the mic, he believed your tensioner was of the same style. I've got the pulley. All I'm looking for is the bolt/arbor/washer, whatever the combo of the hardware itself is.

Is this something you sell? Sorry if this is off topic. Was just hoping to be able to save this tensioner setup, and not have to buy an entire assembly just for the bolt.