gaww

I have a 2001 vert and it is completely stock except for a ProFlow intake. I'm considering adding a spuercharger or maybe just some nitrous to my car, however I do want to keep my engine as stock as possible. What considerations should I look at given that I am completely new to this stuff and that the car is simply a daily driver, never taken to the track and only road raced if anything. Thanks

intel55

Well in general adding either to a stock car is just fine if you keep the power levels down (i.e. 7-8psi or 100 shots and the occasioanl 150 shot).

The nitrous would be the best power for the money. You can get all the bells and whisltes on a nitrous kit for a lil over $1700. Base kit with some added safety features for under $1K. To set up the car for nitrous you are going to need to change out your stock plugs and go with TR6 or TR55 (not using nitrous often if you use those). Next you will need to check your car for detonation or knock retard (KR) and the air/fuel ratio. IF you are to lean (which I doubt you are) you will need some minor adjustments. The main concern will be any detonation. You do not want to add nitrous to a car that is already getting anything over 3-5* of ping. Since you have an '01 you will probably be good to go, but some '01's that are driven daily I know already have a lil ping to them on WOT. You could take your car over to Brian at the Vettewrench for him to ATAP your car to check everything all out before you purchase a nitrous kit. So really just minor stuff to add some nitrous: change plugs and do an engine check.

Now a s/c is a lil more involved. You will most likely need to have it installed by someone here in Chicago. I also would recommend you key the crank. I believe most of the s/c kits come with larger fuel injectors that you will need. The ATI kit sold by most vendors here comes with just about everything you need to have it installed by somebody (the keyway kit is extra). The ATI s/c is on full time, so you will always have the power. You will also need some tuning done to your pcm to get the s/c to put out all its power.

The cost difference is HUGE. You are looking at around $7500-8000 to have a s/c kit installed. THe nitrous kit would be between roughly $2k-$1k depending how many bells and whislets you got.

IMO, since you car is a daily driver I do not think you would want boost (though only really above 3krpms) all the time. However, I could be totally wrong :D Both can deliever GOBS of power to your car, but at very different price points. A s/c also has more "oohhh ahhhh" effect on people also :D

stop by the Chicago area get together at Hooters on April 7th and you can talk to a few us and see what is involved. :cheers:

Crushinator

I used to be one of those guys that thought Nitrous was bad, but a very quickly changing my tune about it. The kits they make these days are very reliable. I guess the only benefit of a supercharger is it's always there and you don't have worry about refilling it. Most guys that have it say they don't run into too much of a problem with running out of juice.

As far as a daily driver with either, I say go for it. I could drive my car every day and it's just like a normal C5. It's only when you hit the gas that things change. Nitrous or supercharging works well! Good luck!

VERTVETTE

:cheers:

GWPII

ATI Procharger kit: $ 6000 - 6400.
Install: $0.00(do-it yourself) to $600 - $900.
Keying kit: optional.

$6,600 to $7,300. That is pretty good compared to a year ago. It would have cost $11,000 up for another brand or brand(s).

If you want to 'key' your balancer, it's not too much more.


I have an ATI Procharger kit, and almost purchased the other brand's $11,000 "kit". ATI is the best SC kit to come down the C5's way yet.

Where else can you have a basically stock motor and get about 535hp out of it while still keeping your warranty valid?

Avanti

I've run a number of blown street cars (have a 10# Vortech on one at the moment) and find the Lingenfelter set up (only 5.5 # boost) VERY appealing. It should be a bullet-proof (or as close as possible) daily driver. My main qualm is the two-inch higher hood bulge and matching the pewter paint.

Lingenfelter kit = $6800 (with hood) and @ $8800 installed, dyoed, and tuned. May sound like a lot until you develop your own system sometime! Don't ask how I know. :lol: Been there MORE than once!!!


[Modified by Avanti, 11:35 PM 3/31/2002]

VERTVETTE

jbsblownc5

I don't drive mine daily, but I could. A properly tune SCed car is very civil until you stand on it. :D
JB

boblackhardtop

[QUOTE]

ATI Procharger kit: $ 6000 - 6400.
Install: $0.00(do-it yourself) to $600 - $900.
Keying kit: optional.

$6,600 to $7,300. That is pretty good compared to a year ago. It would have cost $11,000 up for another brand or brand(s).

If you want to 'key' your balancer, it's not too much more.


I paid $6300 installed & $240 for keying. Give Mike Cerra a call, he's very competitive as far as $$ & I heard they do an excellent job as well. BTW, I did not get mine from him, was going to but too far to drive.

Avanti

VertVette: I'm in Louisiana and yes, my 10# Vortech iron-head V/8 runs an air-to-water intercooler as needed via a thermistor and cockpit switch.

However, 5.5#'s into an aluminum-head engine via a roots-type blower (the physics are such that Roots typically heat the air less than the various turbo/centrif. chargers configurations) with modern electronic control should not be a problem. If it were, under such circumstances I'd prefer to lower to static compression ratio or back off on timing, as opposed to all the extra plumbing and hassle of adding a truly effective intercooler on most applications. I'm not a fan of air-to-air intercoolers in many cases since they must be quite large to be of any real value, beyond bench racing (check the enormous intercoolers on high-boost ricers and translate to 5.7 liters), and are again directly at the mercy of ambient air temp. I run a large reserve water tank on my air-to-water system, besides a separate fluid cooler system, and if I want to do something crazy I can add ice for a short blast or two, bump the timing via the cockpit console for the programmable/selectable cockpit computer, and GO.

But hey, how the car is to be used is THE big issue and whatever floats ones boat! As I recall, though, the original issue was directed primarily toward street use. Good luck. :yesnod: