MyEBc5Z

I was just wondering if it's ok to have my bov, bap, boost gauge, and meth kit all getting vacuum from a block connected to the brake booster vacuum line?

Milan

That's the best way to do it

YeloFevr

I'll be re-doing mine this way. I just have a daisy chain of hoses connecting to hoses...looks like a 3 year old did it.

Z06supercharged

I run a single 1/8 tap on brake booster line and put a main fitting log far away from heat in drivers fender well area for all my needed source feeds. Ive had Hobbs switches fail being right over exhaust heat area before. I do not want any of my switches plumbed right over exhaust manifold.

BLOWNBLUEZ06

Most, if not all of these tributary connections aren't considered vacuum leaks. For instance, on the bypass valve, you're simply applying vacuum to a diaphragm, but not moving any significant air unless it's leaking.
This means, it really doesn't matter if you add 10 connections other than the aesthetics part of the equation.

MyEBc5Z

^^^ok that makes sense, thanks!

~Josh

I'm now selling all aluminum CNC cut vacuum manifolds for boosted and non boosted applications. You can plug your hoobs switches into this manifold or your could just use it for any of your vacuum source needs. I personally use mine for my boost gauge, Racetronix Hobbs switch and fuel pressure regulator.

For install you simply cut your brake booster line and plug it in between.

Price: $67 shipped in the U.S. and that includes 2 brass fittings and 1 brass plug. For an additional $3 each you can upgrade your brass fittings to aluminum as shown in picture. If you need any extra fitting it's $3 for brass and $5 for aluminum. I also offer black anodizing for an additional $4 per piece.