madmatt9471

Original '98 oil pan, if that helps at all

Thanks,Matt

Corvette-Chris

The batwing doesn't help, but its doable. You may have to drop the cradle, though.

That sucks, Matt. I really hate it for you!

madmatt9471

So then I have the Batwing pan?

I appreciate help!

I'll just have to take my time!

Anyone have the info on removing the torque tube from the back of the motor or any heads up to look for?

Thanks,Matt

breecher_7

Yeah, the batwing is a pain in the ***, makes going in and out of the engine bay a bitch. Do yourself a favor and swap it out for a LS2 pan while its out. loosening the front cradle does help but its still a bitch.

as far as the TQ tube goes, its pretty self explanatory once you get under there. No black magic involved!

madmatt9471

I can do the LS2 pan and I can remove or loosen the rack out of the way to help and drop the cradle -

As far as the TQ Tube goes can I just unbolt all the BELL HOUSING bolts and it will come apart? and not have to worry about the PROPELLER INPUT SHAFT CLAMP?

"IF" that is the case with the TQ Tube and the bell housing that should really help!

Thanks,Matt

breecher_7

Your going to want to remove the rack, radiator, and everything else thats taking up space if you pull it out the top.

If its a manual trans car you should just be able to unbolt the bellhousing and be good to go, if its a auto, im not sure, ive NEVER had a automatic C5/C6 apart. You may end up having to slide the trans back though, I dont think there is enough room to pull the engine forward to disengage the splines from the clutch with that damn oil pan. Ive never tried to remove a engine out the top of the C5 with the TQ tube still under the car, we have always removed the rear cradle and pulled the whole thing out as its pretty easy to do and gives you extra room to work. To bad you dont have a lift, its alot easier to just unbolt the cradles and suspension and just lift the body off!

madmatt9471

I know I wish I had a lift too - I am going to have to do the work in my garage, especially since it is torn down

I will look more into being able to slide it forward to remove it -

Thanks,Matt

BLOWNBLUEZ06

Sounds like you just bought the Custom Age 625+ studs. Those are actually better and stronger than L19's. They didn't tell me that they were going to be available because I recently needed a set of studs for an older block. I actually got a set of studs for an older block, but it was a special run and they haven't done the run since then. You can get the ARP2000's made for the older blocks, but it requires a custom order.

The custom age 625 material is impressive to say the least. Decreased stress corrosion and no hydrogen embrittlement issues like the L19's have.

Here's what ARP says about the material.

CUSTOM AGE 625 PLUS®: This newly formulated super-alloy demonstrates superior fatigue cycle life, tensile strength and toughness – with complete resistance to atmospheric corrosion and oxidation. ARP is the first to develop manufacturing and testing processes for fasteners with Custom Age 625+. Best of all it is less expensive and expected to soon replace MP-35 as the material of choice in the high strength, super-alloy field. Typical tensile strength is 260,000-280,000 psi.

CamminC5

Are these made of Inconel 625?

madmatt9471

No I have not been able to get these yet!

Now I have to have the block re-done due to a couple piston issues!
But they are pretty awesome!

Thanks,Matt

corvette8189

ive pulled mine from the top a couple of times not to hard. The cradel has to be dropped. You can either dissconnect the bellhousing from the block or the tq tube.

madmatt9471

Excellent!

Did you drop the cradle all the way off the bolts or just to the end of them?

Thanks,Matt

a/c man

same here dropped the cradle all the way on some 4x4 wood blocks its not to bad on the ground take the upper control arms loose and the bottom shocks loose motor mount bolts loose and the 4 cradle bolts I left the breaks on and took the the 10mm bolts off that hold the lines and lowered it down slow! good luck!

FixedRoof

Pulled from the top without dropping the cradle. But the drivetrain was out, so maybe that gained some clearance. The batwing is a pain to deal with. The LS2 pan is MUCH easier and you have a ton more room underneath for the headers.

BTW... what kind of pistons were they that broke?? Just curious...

If you are replacing pistons you can use any gasket you want if they are the right cc, depending on what you get of course.

a/c man

You will need to drop the cradle or pull the rack and pinion I would drop the cradle gives you room to work better! I left the fans and radiator in the car

sami85L98

Did not read whole thread, just saying good luck man, and how is shoulder repair coming along? too tired right now buddy.

MVP'S ZO6

I agree with the rest the cradle will have to be dropped to come out the top. It may loOk like it will come out without dropping the cradle but trust me it won't. It will just barely hit. On a good note u don't have to completely drop the cradle. Just. Loosen it a bit so it drops down some and then pull it. Take the bell housing to block bolts out that's the easiest way. Once u do those things it will come out with ease. Also if u can remove as much as you can from the engine it will make it easier.

And the obvious stuff has to come out like the radiator ect. (that's easy though).

I have a new way that I'm about to attempt to put the engine back in without actually using a cheery picker. It involves a jack or two, some jack stands and Motofeet. I'll let ya know how it works. I'll be completely removing the cradle.

madmatt9471

Excellent and thank you for the picture - that helps!

Looking forward to getting it out and the ball rolling

Thanks again for the help!

Thanks,Matt

madmatt9471

I know I wish I had the LS2 pan - perhaps I can do one of them too!

The PISTONS are: Manley Forged Pistons

Thanks,Matt

madmatt9471

I like the thought of leaving in the rack and being able to just lower the cradle - fans and radiator in the car

Can I leave the fans and radiator in even though I have the A&A lowered/slanted radiator set-up? (Your thoughts)

Thanks,Matt