madmatt9471

Excellent and thank you for the info on what you did - with all the comments I am getting even more confident I can do this with my buddy's help!

I am looking to hearing of your new process of installing the motor, sounds intriguing!

Thanks,Matt

a/c man

yes I did I just turned the motor sideways as I was pulling it out!

BLOWNBLUEZ06

Not inconel, but maybe a derivative of it. ARP mentions inconel as a completely separate and weaker material in their lineup of material options.



Hey Matt,

Here's cajundude's writeup on pulling a motor from the top. http://www.cajundude.com/engineswap.htm

I've done a handful of motors from the top and helped others over the phone. You've helped me in the past and know I'm always willing to reciprocate, so call, text, email or PM me any time if I can help.

madmatt9471

Cool!

I read Cajundudes whole write-up already - but he had the "DANG" torque tube and rear suspension out already Ahhhhh!

I will definitely give you a ring to pick your brain on a few things

We'll see soon enough "IF" I will need a block or not mine is already .005 over and might be needing a hone to clean things up - I hope it can be done or....

I will have to pull an Engine Block out of my "BUTT" or I will be looking for one somewhere -

Best case scenario for me will be for the Block to need only:
(1) 8 new pistons and complete ring set
(2) New Bearings
(3) Necessary Machine Work (Honing, decking etc.)
(4) New Head Studs
(5) Gaskets etc
(6) Complete Block to Head assembly (cam,RR's etc too)

Come home and drop it in!

Thanks,Matt

madmatt9471

Excellent! Every little tid bit of information helps!

Questions: #2 being the most important
(1) Did you run the engine hoist from the front or from the side?

(2) From your picture is the rear off the ground too? (I assume it is but I can't tell from the pic)

(3) Was the rear the same height as the front or slightly lower?

Thanks,Matt

Chris Stewart

That's a bummer, with the help of this forum you can get R done. You'll appreciate all the money saved, and pickup some cool tools. You should download a copy of the service manual. It tells you how everything comes apart, and how it goes back together. It helps to take many pics along the way and organize stuff as it comes out.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...al-on-dvd.html

The driveline only takes a few hours to drop. Before you know it, you'll have everything out. I pushed the driveline back, suspend the engine while I lower the front cradle. Then lower the engine and slide out the bottom. This was done with the hood in place and the radiator, steering rack left in the car.

a/c man

from the side left my hood on (2) rear was on the ground (3) was harder going back in I was on my own Oh I have the bat-wing oil pan no big deal here?

Steve@RSD

Matt,
I just did this. Bring the engine hoist in from the side. (i used the passenger side) Get the hoist all hooked up and put a little strain on it. The remove the front cradle. Remove the upper control arms from the frame, brake lines, wire harness, steering shaft, etc
Then after the cradle is out, crawl under and open the inspection cover on the bellhousing, unclamp the input shaft clamp, (10mm allen) and the Torque tube bolts to bellhousing bolts, work the engine forward off of the input shaft, and when clear of the torque tube up, up and away!!

There are also a few transmission lines (automatic) and wires...etc
Call me if you need more,
Steve
(707) 365-0117

madmatt9471

Will do and thank you Steve for the heads up and reading the whole post to see where I was at in the process! (I numbered the response up top for my benefit)

One quick Question:

Doing it this way then did you remove the Bell-Housing after the motor was out?
thus only separating the TQ Tube from the Bell housing after undoing the Shaft Clamp - This seems to be the easiest way to do this!

I will be calling to pick your brain a little and thanks again to everyone for the help!

Thanks,Matt
661-406-7516

95vettski

Hey Matt, any idea on what caused the detonation? Do you do your own tuning? Hope your up and running soon

madmatt9471

Yes!
The December before last when I went to the track and
(1) my Engine Coolant Temp Sensor went bad(Cracked at electrical connection)
(2) My meth pump seal went bad and dumped all the meth on the ground through the run and it was then that I detonated

and that is when it all must of happened and then progressed thereafter to where I am at now!

All this was before I recently (this past summer) installed a twin fuel pump system on the Vette and the D1SC -

Seen that it was pushing water on the Dyno and it all came together and now I understand why it has always, since the detonation day, has been pushing water out the coolant tank -

My Vette was Meth dependent and it failed but now it has the twin system, which is working and working good which on the last recent Dyno showed!

Thanks,Matt

robert miller

Matt again you will have it befor long just take your time and make sure it is back 100%. I know you will do that for sure...Robert

madmatt9471

Well got the motor out yesterday -

I designed a CRADLE Lowering Jack set-up to sit in-between the crotch of the Engine Hoist, my buddy Cory welded up the parts for me! -

I will post pics of it and a few tricks and suggestions I had when lowering it away from the motor and then hoisting it out - was pretty easy and fun - got help from my soon to be son-in-law!

Thanks,Matt

02402ramair

We had a simular issue with our 402 F1A Z06. My freind Able, the owner of the car decided to go out to the street races with his car. I had the car on a track tune with no IAT timing retard in the tune and the tune was on kill. This car is never street driven so I never put the street tune back in it. He decided to anyway and it would have been fine if it wasn't for the meth feed line (plastic) melting causing not only the tune to go somewhat lean but also detonate.

He doesn't know much about the car. He brought it back saying the car is making a funny sound. I started it up and it was missing. Pulled all the plugs to find one electrode burnt completly off. The car started pushing water under boost . I ended up milling the heads and doing ls9 gaskets to cure the issue and replaced that stupid plastic line with the stainless.

I ended up seeing a video of him racing an evo from that night. The car started popping and banging and he stayed in it trying to catch this EVO. Damage was done. If he would of looked at the WB he would have seen it lean.

Things happen
Good luck with the repair
Kris

MVP'S ZO6

Very Interested Matt!

MVP'S ZO6

Very Interested Matt!

madmatt9471

I will have the pictures ready tomorrow!

They are uploading now, but I have to leave

Thanks,Matt

MVP'S ZO6

Ok Matt. Thanks buddy!

madmatt9471

Here are the pics of the Engine Cradle Jack I made -

Bottom and Top Piece: With Angle Iron boxed around Bottle Jack and at ends for support 1/8" Angle Iron and 1/8" by 2'x16" Bottom Steel Plate





Top Piece: with welded 1" Black Pipe to 5/8" thick by 12"x7" Steel Plate-



Under the Cradle and getting ready to lower the Cradle:





Between the Crotch of the Engine Hoist and Entering from the Drivers side:





Supporting the Torque Tube:





Ready to Pull Motor from Top:





Had to Push it Forward to get it off the Shaft:



Shaft Clamp that was loosened on the Flexplate in order for the motor to separate from the TQ Tube and Bellhousing:





Motor out and on the hoist:



All Stripped and ready to go to the shop:



Here was the Damage to the Pistons:

#5




#7




Thanks,Matt

MVP'S ZO6

Cool!