madmatt9471

Update: Video and Final Pictures 4/21/2012
Page 5 Post# 100

Update: Up and Running! 4/20/2012
Page 5 Post #98

Update: 4/20/2012
Page 5 Post #90

Update: 4/18/2012
Page 5 Post #84

Update: 4/17/2012
Page 5 Post 81 (1st post on Page)

Update: 4/16/2012
Page 4 Post 73

Update: 4/14/2012
Page 4 Post 69

Update: 4/13/2012

Got the motor Wednesday from the shop and I will be putting on all the supporting bolt-ons in order to install it back in the engine bay tomorrow afternoon, 4/14/2012! (I.E. Flexplate, Bellhousing, motor mount brackets etc.)

I will take pics all along the way for you guys!

Update:Page 3 Post #59 to see Home Made Cradle Jack and Engine Hoist Pics

Well found out I was pushing water

No big deal - BUT since the shoulder rebuild things are going fairly slow, I get help from my friends, since lifting, pushing, pulling etc is really hard to do -

I am down to removing the heads today and will be taking them in to be re-surfaced, new head gaskets and getting...

See Page #3 Post #59 for this
I designed a CRADLE Lowering Jack set-up to sit in-between the crotch of the Engine Hoist, my buddy Cory welded up the parts for me!

Update: I did not use these, I went with the standard ARP Head STUDS!The new ARP 234-4313 Head Studs (A 625 metal) these can be torqued down to 100 ft lbs (these will be in from ARP towards the end of February)

My gasket will be matched to how much is shaved form the head, I am having QMP the shop who built my motor do the work on the heads - they do excellent work!

I will keep all posted as to my progress and getting the D1SC FINALLY tuned in!

Here was the Damage to the Pistons:

#5




#7




Thanks,Matt

0Arun@CCP

Hey Matt,

Sent you a pm buddy.

4SFED Z

Hey matt. Good luck on the car and shoulder recovery. Try to take pics of teardown and so forth.

robert miller

Matt, buddy hate to hear the trouble man bad timing for sure. But I am sure you will get it back up very fast. I know will cost more but are the ARP 2000 head bolts better for the F/I guys.. Robert

corvette8189

i like the L-19 studs they hold my 20+ boost on stock heads and mls gaskets

Corvette-Chris

I just got my ARP 2000 head studs in (ARP 234-4319) and they should definitely do the trick. I just don't see how studs that are $800-1,000 could be THAT much better?? I chose not to get the L19's because they are finicky when exposed to various moistures and such.

Anyway, Good luck with both the shoulder and car rehab! I'm interested in both!

BTW, I just got my heads back from the machine shop. Manley Pro-Flow SS valves, 3 angle valve job, bowl blending that my father-in-law and myself did along with light porting, and decking the surface! Man are they pretty!!!

madmatt9471

When I spoke to ARP they don't have the 2000's for the early LS1 1997-2003 blocks (longer bolts that go deep into the block)

They only have them for the 2004+ LS/2/3/6/7 etc and LSX Iron blocks - so in speaking with them I am S.O.L!

So it is either the the standard LS ARP 234-4110 head studs or the new 234-4313 625 metal bolts!

The L19's they don't even have and they are picky to certain moisture and react corrosively!

But I did get the heads off

Thanks,Matt

madmatt9471

When I spoke to ARP they don't have the 2000's for the early LS1 1997-2003 blocks (longer bolts that go deep into the block)

They only have them for the 2004+ LS/2/3/6/7 etc and LSX Iron blocks - so in speaking with them I am S.O.L!

So it is either the the standard LS ARP 234-4110 head studs or the new 234-4313 625 metal bolts!

The L19's they don't even have and they are picky to certain moisture and react corrosively!

Thanks,Matt

madmatt9471

Got the PM and am giving you a call!

Thanks,Matt

madmatt9471

Thanks for all the help and answering my questions Arun!

Can't wait to get it all back together!

Thanks,Matt

madmatt9471

Update:

Got the heads off and I can see where it had the problem, #5 cylinder part of the gasket, it happened when I had very noticeable detonation at the track last December -

Tomorrow I will be taking them down to the Engine Builder to get them all R&R'd

I did not take any pics of the tear down - just too much with all the issues of my shoulder and working mostly by myself -

I will take a pic or two of the gasket and heads and piston holes etc -

Everything looks real good I am very happy with how clean the pistons look and the cylinder walls -

Arun really helped on the phone right before I wrote this so I know exactly which direction I am going -

Although I wish I could do the LS9 7 layer gasket I just can't since my gasket is .060" now, and with all the other specs of my block I just will not be able to do the LS9 gasket which is .051" - Especially since I will have to go a little thicker on the gasket after resurface of heads, maybe .065" (Depending on how much of a resurface)

Right now with the Cometic .060" gasket and all my block work and the current build specs I am at 10:0.1 and the .051" LS9 would take me further than I want to be in compression and get too close for clearances!

I do wish one of you guys were here to help!

Thanks,Matt

peter pan

Good luck with the rebuild

MVP'S ZO6

what was your compression before doing the work?

madmatt9471

Thanks -

I am thinking of "NOT" going with the ARP 625 (234-4313)Bolts that torque to 100 ft lbs now -

Might distort the head and just be too much stress!

Thanks,matt

madmatt9471

10.04:1 compression with the .060" gaskets with a 4.00 bore on my 3.9055 piston bore -

Thanks,Matt

corvette8189

Mine are torqued past 100 with the L19.
i doubt you would have a problem at 100

madmatt9471

Dang

I am still undecided at this point - I am going to go over all the details with my engine builder and make the final decision early next week!

Thank you for the input, much appreciated -

Thanks,Matt

robert miller

Matt, for sure Arun can help you on what you have to do and it be correct man. I cant wait until this spring when he comes down to BG KY.. Just take your time man it will come back together... Robert

madmatt9471

Well right now I am super bummed -

This morning I found 2 broken piston tops #5 and #7 - So I will have to pull the block too -

I am going to have to do this myself and will have to finish by pulling it from the top -

I don't have the funds to have any of this done, so it will be down for a while as I pull funds together and time - Man this sucks!

Any suggestions welcome for removing motor from the top side - the heads are not on so this should be easier - I hope!

My main question is about disconnecting the Torque Tube from the back of the block - Help!

Thanks,Matt

breecher_7

Coming out the top is always fun. What oil pan is on the engine?