molten vett

I know Alky control seems to be the kit of choice but is anyone running any other kits with any success? I hear mixed reviews on the Snow kits but I hear "Devils own" makes a pretty nice kit also. I was on their website and their kit has peaked my intrest. The price is good but it doesn't come with braided hoses standard.
If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate the advice. I'm still pretty much new to boost in my Vette and I'm trying to learn as much as possible.

BLOWNBLUEZ06

If you knew how all of the pumps were designed and configured, your decision would be much easier. Some companies' pumps have a pressure switch built in. Once you hit the pressure target, they will stop pumping. They do this while you're in boost and need it the most. Many companies boast that their pump is capable of 200psi, but if you bench tested it, you would find that while they're capable of producing the pressure, they're not capable of doing that when there's a demand for volume. In other words with a 1gpm nozzle, and 18 volts feeding the pump they may be able to hit 200psi. Lower the voltage to a realistic 14volts and they only produce 150. Then put a 15gpm nozzle in it and then you discover they only produce 90. Alky Control pumps will put out 150psi with a 15gpm nozzle and 14volts input. Ever read another company's statement warning about using more than a 50/50 mix and wonder why they do that? Inside the pump, you'll find that Alky Control only uses components that are impervious to methanol where many others don't. Why? It costs more money. Alky Control protects their motors with a thick urethane sleeve. You might be surprised at how little water it takes to destroy one of these motors on these pumps. Last time I spoke with Julio, the owner he shared that since the evolution to using the sleeve, not one motor has failed.
One company out there uses nothing more than a cheesy plastic pressure switch to turn the pump on. When it happens to work, it turns the pump on full blast. Alky Control uses a progressive controller that varies pump speed with boost and it's overall output is adjustable.
Using the factory tank is the absolute smartest thing you could use for a reservoir. Why? You get a warning on your DIC when it's low! The WW fluid isn't paramount to keeping a windshield clean and most are more than happy to give it up.
The Alky Control system is the reference standard for meth injection systems for good reason.

Here's a few more details about their system that I extracted from their website:

"What is "Failsafe"?
FirstThe very best failsafe is a properly designed, executed, and properly installed system. The system then can only reliably function as a result of proper installation practices. Poor connections electrically/mechanically are the number one reason injection systems fail. Understand this statement, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. The use of crimp connectors must be avoided in critical areas of the system. Like POWER. Soldering/Heat shrink/etc is the best way to assure proper voltage reaches your system.



Ok.. we have our electrical 100%

SecondThe layout of the system is critical to proper operation. The supply tank for liquid has to be sturdy, hose connections to it have to be sturdy, as does the proper secure mounting of the tank. We utilize as a cost savings measure, OEM plastic tanks throughout our systems since they “Bolt In” and are safe to use with water/alcohol. We will not use fittings that do not have proper sealing capabilities. New tanks are used on older vehicles to eliminate any potential issues. Part of the “Layout” is locating a proper location to mount the injection pump, proper location to mount the inline filter, and finally proper location to mount the injection nozzle. The reason an inline filter is employed in ALL of our kits, simple. To keep debris formation a non-issue on the nozzle assembly. Face it, once the nozzle is installed.. it is never serviced. If it needs to be serviced, you have found out too late. Taking apart the filter is a simple procedure, and then back washing it. The uses of stainless steel braided hoses, AN flare connections, weather pack terminals on pumps, etc all yield a foundation for reliability. Plastics in critical areas are eliminated. Especially in the pressure end of the system.

Ok.. we have a properly executed layout.. now what if…

ThirdThe low level issue. If you have an injection system installed.. it must have a functioning low level warning device. If you leave chance for guessing, you will at some point or other guess wrong. Whether it’s a light behind the dash, on top of the dash, a factory “Low Warning” etc.. The location must be clear and visible.

The only exception to this rule is on professional race applications that require foam put into the fuel cell to keep sloshing minimized. These applications it is common for fuel, water, oil, and other liquids be inspected after every run.

Ok.. we’re sure system has liquid.. now what if..

FourthSystem test. The injection kit needs to have test button readily available for diagnostics. Our PAC controllers feature a low pressure test of the system. Not a full pressure test that could potentially hydro-lock an engine.

Ok.. we tried the test button.. air fuel changed.. now what if..

FifthDiagnostics. All of our systems are progressive. Period. This allows the system to commence spraying early with very low pressure. Way before detonation assistance is needed. Once system commences spraying an LED lights up red indicating system has activated. As the signal(MAP/MAF/Boost) to the controller increases so does the drive to the pump. Once the system pressurizes that LED will change color from Red to Green. This indicates the system now has developed pressure, meaning hoses/connections/pump are in proper working order. The rate of change of this LED from Red to Green now give a predictability of the system. Any changes to this transitional time of change will give indication of a system issue.

For example, filter clogs.. the system will transition from red to green instantly. Nozzle clogs.. oops cant happen we have a filter. Someone pours a bag of sand into the tank.. system lights up Red.. cant make pressure.. no Green condition. See a basic setup provides a simple, reliable, easy to diagnose system.

Ok.. how bout a flow device.. some guy on the net..

The issues with flow devices are many fold. First if using methanol the device needs the ability to resist corrosion. Then the fittings need to be secure whereby no issues can result. Then the device needs a high and low limit that meet the systems delivery capability. See simply letting you know liquid is flowing doesn’t address if there is a leak pre nozzle. Or if a small leak ensued the ability to catch the reduced amount into the engine. Having a device that cannot flow the systems capabilities again disallows proper monitoring. Then signal conditioning of the device to resist high pressure, pulsations.. and finally cost. It would be a very sophisticated system to properly address this issue. Costing many fold the cost of the injection system. Let alone, we then need to have the device tied into engine management whereby if a change to the integrity of the system occurred, a signal and warning would be issued trying to shut the engine down. A system like this would already be in place on engines used for racing to monitor fuel delivery. Guess what, commercially available, inexpensive doesn’t exist. A quality flow sensor methanol compatible able to withstand pressure will cost hundreds.. just the sensor. No electronics. Look into Industrial Automation for such devices. There are other companies marketing similar devices.. but we can always come up with.. What if scenarios.

So what does ALKYCONTROL recommend?

Simple.. Air Fuel monitoring. And decisions based on air fuel monitoring. There are currently many products on the market that can trigger alarms based on Air Fuel, EGT(Exhaust Gas Temp), throttle position, pressure, etc. It is better to do a system that can catch all, instead of concentrating on a single piece of the puzzle which makes up a fuel system on a vehicle. See Fuel Pumps, Injectors, Fuel Filters, Fuel Pressure Regulators, Injection System.. all make your fuel system. Why concentrate on one component, when many others are in the mix. Let alone react to only one part.

Now if a simple failsafe were to be wanted, simple. Tie the pressure sensing circuit of the system into your boost control or engine management. Once prelim pressure is met, allow your high boost/high timing settings. How can this be done, on some vehicles it simply can’t. On others it can. This subject goes to far to get into this article, but wanted to share my experience. Contact ALKYCONTROL for ideas on how to setup such devices IF possible.

There is always risk associated with racing an engine. Too many times someone wants to be able and race an engine without any consequence. Guess what, this is why racing engines/parts don’t have warranties. Education, information, Data, experience. These are the key elements to successfully keep an engine alive under the worst conditions.

Hope this article helps,

Julio Don"

Chicago1

^ Wow that was a awesome read. I know who I'm going with and I see why the majority does also. thanks for that info

BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance

Julio's system is very well thought out. Every time I talk with him, he explains why he did something a certain way. He has a good reason for each and every thing he does. His kit is constantly evolving to get better and better.

I'll be glad to help you when you're ready to purchase a kit. Let me know.

regorih

I'm running a snow kit with a boost reference controller . Comes on at 4psi and ramps the pressure to max at 7psi

molten vett

I agree Thanks BLOWNBLUE

molten vett

How long have you been running this kit,any issues?

leo12

I have the Devils own dual injectors progressive system for over 4 years,same pump running 100% meth ,17 pounds of boost.
I have nothing but good things to say about it

regorih

No issues so far, it's been almost a year. One thing for sure is it eats a lot of meth

0Arun@CCP

There's other meth kits?

molten vett

Thanks for that info. I've been on their website and I may give them a call to ask them about their pumps. Are u running the stock lines or did you upgrade to stainless?

molten vett

Are you running straight Meth or a 50/50 mix?

0CK@UPPCOS

Being that Snow is local to us, I would love to plug their kits, but I can't. We've seen too many issues for what should be considered "added safety", to be considered safe.

I've heard exceptional things about AC, and I would go with them.


CK

leo12

stainless

MVP'S ZO6

I have an AEM kit. Decent kit but if your going to buy a meth kit go with alky control. Only reason I didn't is because the AEM kit was already on my car and it works for what I have.

I did have to buy a new pump because mine sat forever and seized up. I spent the 130 bucks for AEM's latest and greatest pump which also required a new controller but AEM gave me the controller under warranty.

mdaniel

Expect to replace the pump every couple years regardless of which pump you get. I'm on pump number three (at least) and know of many others who have had to replace theirs every season or every other season. FWIW

molten vett

How did you know your pump was out? Not sure I would want something my motor depended on going out every season.

Also what kit are you running if I may ask?

XtremeVette

I agree...something there doesn't sound right. BlownBlue your input? I can't imagine a kit so well planned out and from the way you described it would fail once a season! That is just crazy.

MVP'S ZO6

You will know because the LED will flash an error code as soon as you start up the car. This will or should cause you to investigate the code and find the problem.

Replacing the pump is cake.

BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance

Every few years is good insurance.

Julio's Alky Control kit has an LED that comes on to let you know that the pump is working and that LED is tied to a pressure circuit in the head of the pump.
I'm not sure how AEM's controller knows something's wrong, but the way I understand their system/pump works is to run the pump speed up until it hits a pressure switch at which point it oscillates on and off (which is a really bad idea IMO). It could be a circuit as simple as a circuit that knows the pump should be on and the pressure switch inside the pump head isn't tripping off the head pressure.