i hate the thought of caving in...
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
i hate the thought of caving in...
...but with the way my wife's priorities line up, i may as well forget my long-standing dream of the 416 LS3 i had when i bought my blower (which was long before we met). so that got me thinking - what if i can still salvage my engine plans by saving a bit of cash & doing a 382.
go ahead & blast me for not doing a crap-ton of research first before asking, but hey - i literally just started contemplating this a few minutes ago...
how big a difference - not just hp/tq numbers but power under the curve, boost required, reliability, engine strength, complexity, etc. - would it be to just forge my current LS1 (with ~58k, ~13k roots boosted between 8 & 11psi) using a 4" crank? i'm still thinking around 10:1 compression & safety meth from my TVS2300 with a port job on the blower manifold, some high-flowing Trick or AFR heads, a thumpy blower cam, and roughly 14-15psi. i'm pretty sure i'd end up having to keep my 90mm TB, and i'd always planned to stick with my current 1 7/8 headers
i don't really expect it to hit north of 700 at the wheels like my previous goal, but what would y'all expect from something like this? i know when most guys go for a big build, they start with a LS2/3/7/X, but i'm just curious as to what can be done when you're fighting to spend any money on yourself.
go ahead & blast me for not doing a crap-ton of research first before asking, but hey - i literally just started contemplating this a few minutes ago...
how big a difference - not just hp/tq numbers but power under the curve, boost required, reliability, engine strength, complexity, etc. - would it be to just forge my current LS1 (with ~58k, ~13k roots boosted between 8 & 11psi) using a 4" crank? i'm still thinking around 10:1 compression & safety meth from my TVS2300 with a port job on the blower manifold, some high-flowing Trick or AFR heads, a thumpy blower cam, and roughly 14-15psi. i'm pretty sure i'd end up having to keep my 90mm TB, and i'd always planned to stick with my current 1 7/8 headers
i don't really expect it to hit north of 700 at the wheels like my previous goal, but what would y'all expect from something like this? i know when most guys go for a big build, they start with a LS2/3/7/X, but i'm just curious as to what can be done when you're fighting to spend any money on yourself.
Last edited by _zebra; 06-24-2013 at 01:17 AM.
#2
Le Mans Master
...but with the way my wife's priorities line up, i may as well forget my long-standing dream of the 416 LS3 i had when i bought my blower (which was long before we met). so that got me thinking - what if i can still salvage my engine plans by saving a bit of cash & doing a 382.
go ahead & blast me for not doing a crap-ton of research first before asking, but hey - i literally just started contemplating this a few minutes ago...
how big a difference - not just hp/tq numbers but power under the curve, boost required, reliability, engine strength, complexity, etc. - would it be to just forge my current LS1 (with ~58k, ~13k roots boosted between 8 & 11psi) using a 4" crank? i'm still thinking around 10:1 compression & safety meth from my TVS2300 with a port job on the blower manifold, some high-flowing Trick or AFR heads, a thumpy blower cam, and roughly 14-15psi. i'm pretty sure i'd end up having to keep my 90mm TB, and i'd always planned to stick with my current 1 7/8 headers
i don't really expect it to hit north of 700 at the wheels like my previous goal, but what would y'all expect from something like this? i know when most guys go for a big build, they start with a LS2/3/7/X, but i'm just curious as to what can be done when you're fighting to spend any money on yourself.
go ahead & blast me for not doing a crap-ton of research first before asking, but hey - i literally just started contemplating this a few minutes ago...
how big a difference - not just hp/tq numbers but power under the curve, boost required, reliability, engine strength, complexity, etc. - would it be to just forge my current LS1 (with ~58k, ~13k roots boosted between 8 & 11psi) using a 4" crank? i'm still thinking around 10:1 compression & safety meth from my TVS2300 with a port job on the blower manifold, some high-flowing Trick or AFR heads, a thumpy blower cam, and roughly 14-15psi. i'm pretty sure i'd end up having to keep my 90mm TB, and i'd always planned to stick with my current 1 7/8 headers
i don't really expect it to hit north of 700 at the wheels like my previous goal, but what would y'all expect from something like this? i know when most guys go for a big build, they start with a LS2/3/7/X, but i'm just curious as to what can be done when you're fighting to spend any money on yourself.
the TVS2300 won't go too much higher than 800 anyway without overspinning it.
you can save a bit of cash going with LSA heads. model your build after the LS9 it's 638 from the factory and WAY durable too.
I think you'll be very happy with the jam it puts out.
#5
Team Owner
Well I got a 347 LS1 with a D1SC Procharger, TFS heads, small cam, C6 ZR1 3" exhaust(No long tube headers) on a A4 tranny and 15 psi of boost, making 734 RWHP -
IMHO I would go with a Centri blower, but with the suggested set-up you should make the 700+ RWHP!
Thanks,Matt
IMHO I would go with a Centri blower, but with the suggested set-up you should make the 700+ RWHP!
Thanks,Matt
#6
ISIS SUCKS FAT CHOAD
My first thing is if you truly want to make some "Jam" why not get rid of the heat maker under your hood and go with a centrifugal blower. Secondly. Why can't you still have a 400+ cubic inch engine with out using an LS3 block? If this is a street car and your not worried about an extra 80 lbs upfront then you should consider an LQ9 block.
#8
Supporting Vendor
Save your money on the porting. Unless I'm mistaken, porting those blowers has arguable results and would be something that I would consider after I've maxed it out in it's factory form. Keep in mind that meth yields less satisfying results with PD units compared to centrifugals and turbos, so you may choose to soften the compression 1/2 point or something else like that. Just some thoughts.
#10
Melting Slicks
With a 382 and a good centri, you can safely be well into the 700's and not break a sweat or run that much boost!
Just my $1,000,000,000
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HardcoreABN (08-04-2018)
#12
Safety Car
#13
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
thanks for lightening up my mood a little bit
i'll be the first to admit that i might've started this discussion a little too soon after dealing with too many days in a row of BS at work & a mile-long honey-do list, but i reckon it's still how stuff's sitting right now, especially since we just bought our first house a few weeks ago.
that said... enough of y'all have hung around the FI section long enough to realize all that PD-to-centri swap bullcrap is just for laughs & the reasons i'd never do it, right? i don't drag race - done... well, correction: i didn't build the car to drag race.
my current LS1's at about 635 (motor) now. and if i remember right, LSA & L92 heads are for 4"+ bores.
i know what the 2300 can do - my biggest limiter is having the cathedral port manifold on it. also, what i'd originally planned "should've" been near my goal & would've kept the max blower RPMs around 18k to avoid overspinning it
as expected
i've seen your build, too
congrats; it's definitely a great car - just not the direction i'm wanting to go.
and in theory, that's what i'd do... but i also like to try & look a couple steps past that before i act
so i think a bunch of y'all are missing the point here. i'm talking about dumbing my original build plans down a little in order to actually be able to do it for less money, ie: using my existing block, keeping my same blower (which i specifically bought for the extra power/boost whenever i ask for it as opposed to waiting til 3500-4000RPM as well as the constant, predictable feel of a flat torque curve - because my main driving purpose is road course style), and maximizing the potential of what i already have.
that's why i figured if i'm gonna have to forge the rotating assembly anyway, i may as well stroke it since the extra displacement will help reach my goals a little easier without spinning it as fast. i also acknowledge the argument of using more bore/less stroke with high boost, but then it goes back to having to spin faster & i'm trying to keep blower speed as low as reasonably possible.
and Bret (can't remember if it's two Ts or not... sorry) - i know meth ain't as efficient in a PD unit as it would be in a turbo/centri application due to spraying before compression... which is why i originally planned to use a 1/2" phenolic manifold spacer between the upper/lower halves of the blower & tap it for meth. if y'all ain't familiar with the spacers i'm talking about, look up Ted Janetty and Rick@RDS - Rick made them for a while & Ted's shop did a bunch of applications with measured power gains (from more efficient airflow inside the manifold & around through the IC) & IAT reductions. that's when i asked if i'd be feasible to use it as a meth plate & they said it should work. that's about all as far as that's got. anyway, spraying before the rotors has also shown plenty of positive results, so that's why i left it as an option to not so much lower IATs but to give myself a bigger pad before detonating.
as for the CR, i initially thought high 9s, but i've been advised by a number of tuners that 10-10.25ish is fine & i've seen quite a few 400+cube motors done that way with this blower.
and i'm pretty sure this is the point where porting the blower would be a benefit because the cathedral port manifold don't flow all that great up top.
ps - for those that never really heard my original goal/build plan, it was for mid 700s hp and tq - not a 150 split between the two. and yes... i understand it stops being a "road course" car at that point, but i ain't any kind of serious racer - i just love to have fun driving
i'll be the first to admit that i might've started this discussion a little too soon after dealing with too many days in a row of BS at work & a mile-long honey-do list, but i reckon it's still how stuff's sitting right now, especially since we just bought our first house a few weeks ago.
that said... enough of y'all have hung around the FI section long enough to realize all that PD-to-centri swap bullcrap is just for laughs & the reasons i'd never do it, right? i don't drag race - done... well, correction: i didn't build the car to drag race.
with big boost I like a short stroke and big bore anyway! 700 will be cake and all you can reasonably hook up on street tires unless you are running drag radials.
the TVS2300 won't go too much higher than 800 anyway without overspinning it.
you can save a bit of cash going with LSA heads. model your build after the LS9 it's 638 from the factory and WAY durable too.
I think you'll be very happy with the jam it puts out.
the TVS2300 won't go too much higher than 800 anyway without overspinning it.
you can save a bit of cash going with LSA heads. model your build after the LS9 it's 638 from the factory and WAY durable too.
I think you'll be very happy with the jam it puts out.
i know what the 2300 can do - my biggest limiter is having the cathedral port manifold on it. also, what i'd originally planned "should've" been near my goal & would've kept the max blower RPMs around 18k to avoid overspinning it
Well I got a 347 LS1 with a D1SC Procharger, TFS heads, small cam, C6 ZR1 3" exhaust(No long tube headers) on a A4 tranny and 15 psi of boost, making 734 RWHP -
IMHO I would go with a Centri blower, but with the suggested set-up you should make the 700+ RWHP!
Thanks,Matt
IMHO I would go with a Centri blower, but with the suggested set-up you should make the 700+ RWHP!
Thanks,Matt
congrats; it's definitely a great car - just not the direction i'm wanting to go.
so i think a bunch of y'all are missing the point here. i'm talking about dumbing my original build plans down a little in order to actually be able to do it for less money, ie: using my existing block, keeping my same blower (which i specifically bought for the extra power/boost whenever i ask for it as opposed to waiting til 3500-4000RPM as well as the constant, predictable feel of a flat torque curve - because my main driving purpose is road course style), and maximizing the potential of what i already have.
that's why i figured if i'm gonna have to forge the rotating assembly anyway, i may as well stroke it since the extra displacement will help reach my goals a little easier without spinning it as fast. i also acknowledge the argument of using more bore/less stroke with high boost, but then it goes back to having to spin faster & i'm trying to keep blower speed as low as reasonably possible.
and Bret (can't remember if it's two Ts or not... sorry) - i know meth ain't as efficient in a PD unit as it would be in a turbo/centri application due to spraying before compression... which is why i originally planned to use a 1/2" phenolic manifold spacer between the upper/lower halves of the blower & tap it for meth. if y'all ain't familiar with the spacers i'm talking about, look up Ted Janetty and Rick@RDS - Rick made them for a while & Ted's shop did a bunch of applications with measured power gains (from more efficient airflow inside the manifold & around through the IC) & IAT reductions. that's when i asked if i'd be feasible to use it as a meth plate & they said it should work. that's about all as far as that's got. anyway, spraying before the rotors has also shown plenty of positive results, so that's why i left it as an option to not so much lower IATs but to give myself a bigger pad before detonating.
as for the CR, i initially thought high 9s, but i've been advised by a number of tuners that 10-10.25ish is fine & i've seen quite a few 400+cube motors done that way with this blower.
and i'm pretty sure this is the point where porting the blower would be a benefit because the cathedral port manifold don't flow all that great up top.
ps - for those that never really heard my original goal/build plan, it was for mid 700s hp and tq - not a 150 split between the two. and yes... i understand it stops being a "road course" car at that point, but i ain't any kind of serious racer - i just love to have fun driving
Last edited by _zebra; 06-25-2013 at 11:46 PM.
#15
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
i've almost banked enough in stuff for her to equal what i need for the engine
and i think that's how i should put it
crap... but i could really use 4.10s in the truck sooner than engine work.
Last edited by _zebra; 06-25-2013 at 11:49 PM.
#16
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
hmm... never saw this one before
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=448975
based on this build, it seems like i could still get close with the 382 plan...
granted he's on the corn juice, but i'd say high 600s should be easy
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=448975
based on this build, it seems like i could still get close with the 382 plan...
granted he's on the corn juice, but i'd say high 600s should be easy
Last edited by _zebra; 06-26-2013 at 02:02 AM.
#17
Tech Contributor
and Bret (can't remember if it's two Ts or not... sorry) - i know meth ain't as efficient in a PD unit as it would be in a turbo/centri application due to spraying before compression... which is why i originally planned to use a 1/2" phenolic manifold spacer between the upper/lower halves of the blower & tap it for meth. if y'all ain't familiar with the spacers i'm talking about, look up Ted Janetty and Rick@RDS - Rick made them for a while & Ted's shop did a bunch of applications with measured power gains (from more efficient airflow inside the manifold & around through the IC) & IAT reductions. that's when i asked if i'd be feasible to use it as a meth plate & they said it should work. that's about all as far as that's got. anyway, spraying before the rotors has also shown plenty of positive results, so that's why i left it as an option to not so much lower IATs but to give myself a bigger pad before detonating.
as for the CR, i initially thought high 9s, but i've been advised by a number of tuners that 10-10.25ish is fine & i've seen quite a few 400+cube motors done that way with this blower.
and i'm pretty sure this is the point where porting the blower would be a benefit because the cathedral port manifold don't flow all that great up top.
ps - for those that never really heard my original goal/build plan, it was for mid 700s hp and tq - not a 150 split between the two. and yes... i understand it stops being a "road course" car at that point, but i ain't any kind of serious racer - i just love to have fun driving
as for the CR, i initially thought high 9s, but i've been advised by a number of tuners that 10-10.25ish is fine & i've seen quite a few 400+cube motors done that way with this blower.
and i'm pretty sure this is the point where porting the blower would be a benefit because the cathedral port manifold don't flow all that great up top.
ps - for those that never really heard my original goal/build plan, it was for mid 700s hp and tq - not a 150 split between the two. and yes... i understand it stops being a "road course" car at that point, but i ain't any kind of serious racer - i just love to have fun driving
Spraying meth after the blower isn't a bad idea unless you fail to properly atomize and evenly distribute the product, which won't be an easy task.
#18
Safety Car
I did it post blower, takes some creativity and machining. I also went as far as machining a whole custom lower intake at one point. That was a collasal waste of time as it still didnt help much.
#19
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
step 1: ditch that gold-digging troll of a wife. check.
step 2: re-gear truck (cam prep). check.
step 3: deploy. check.
step 4: brake & suspension mods on the car. check.
step 5: deploy again. check.
step 6: buy another house. check.
step 7: finally cam the truck. check.
step 8: marry awesomer woman who supports my vehicular plans because she also enjoys them. check.
step 9: sign more years of my life over to uncle sam to continue getting a paycheck for something i love doing. check.
step 10: work out a deal with new wife between her school loans & my car mods. check.
step 11: revive a 5yr-old thread to resume build plan discussions. check.
step 12: keep the LS1 short block but port the heads (or swap them completely) & blower, install a healthy cam, pulley down, cross fingers for mid-600s... contemplate direct-port meth.
step 13: buy awesome new wife the CTS-V she wants & hope i've got some reusable parts that fit
step 2: re-gear truck (cam prep). check.
step 3: deploy. check.
step 4: brake & suspension mods on the car. check.
step 5: deploy again. check.
step 6: buy another house. check.
step 7: finally cam the truck. check.
step 8: marry awesomer woman who supports my vehicular plans because she also enjoys them. check.
step 9: sign more years of my life over to uncle sam to continue getting a paycheck for something i love doing. check.
step 10: work out a deal with new wife between her school loans & my car mods. check.
step 11: revive a 5yr-old thread to resume build plan discussions. check.
step 12: keep the LS1 short block but port the heads (or swap them completely) & blower, install a healthy cam, pulley down, cross fingers for mid-600s... contemplate direct-port meth.
step 13: buy awesome new wife the CTS-V she wants & hope i've got some reusable parts that fit
Last edited by _zebra; 08-01-2018 at 12:59 AM.