Turbo-Geist

Still working on this build as time allows.

On August 28th, I went to install the rear half shafts and the left side would not go onto the output shaft. They were covered with a red plastic cap and I never removed it for inspection. Apparently something hit the output shaft prior to me taking delivery.

This picture shows the as found condition with the red cap cut to prepare for "surgery"


Operating Room ...sigh


After a 1 hour operation ready for install

Turbo-Geist

Took a vacation for Labor Day weekend and then started back on the car Thursday, September 10th.

Basic final assembly items, tighten all fittings, rear suspension, fluids, etc.

Transmission fluid


Rear differential fluid


D.I.Y. Engine Oil System Primer




After 3 quarts, all rocker arms were covered in oil

Turbo-Geist

I picked up some ID1300s.


They were a little short for the way I had the fuel regulator mounted and front fuel rail crossover so I robbed my adapters from my old ID1000s. This still made them a hair shorter than the ID1000s without an adapter.


I also took some time to install new filters in the adapters


Removing the old filter


Installing new filter


Removing 0.100" from the rail spacer at midnight to take up the slack between the rail and the intake due to the slightly shorter injector. Injector Dynamics offers and adapter that will make the ID1300s the exact height required.

schpenxel

I like the oil primer. I used a pneumatic diaphgram pump once to pressurize an engine I had rebuilt. I had it setup where the oil drained back out the oil pan, went through a filter, then got pumped back through the engine. Worked great.. and I actually found an oil leak with it that I don't think I would have ever found otherwise (I would have thought it was a valve cover but it was a timing chain tensioner leaking. I could actually hear it leaking with the engine off/oil pressure applied with the pump)

Turbo-Geist

Saturday night at 2am, I made a another punch list. There were 15 items plus a few more not listed. It's amazing what it takes to get back to 100% complete.

Turbo-Geist

Here is how I left it Sunday night. I got all but about 3 items completed. So close!

Turbo-Geist

I also test fit the slicks. I'm not sure how they are going to work out with the C6Z driveline. The 6060 swap moves the tire location back. I now have 3/4" clearance between the tire and rear fender with a 28" tall slick. The car still needs an alignment, but I'm not sure if I'll gain anymore and these slicks will have some growth at 160mph.

ajrothm

The tires will push forward 3/8-1/2" under hard load... I bet you'll be fine..

28s always rub on the front of the liners. The C6 cradle will actually solve that. Are those the 28s in the pic ?

Turbo-Geist

Sounds like a cool setup. It's been one year since the engine was assembled so I wanted to be sure everything was good to go.

Good to know that the tire will push forward, but what happens when you let off the throttle at the end of the quarter? Will it still be ok?

These are the 28x10.50x17s from Hoosier. I bought them for the Quick 30 in November 2013 and never really got to use them because I blew the engine the weekend before the event.

StealthFRC

they definitely rub. mine rub on my wide fenders so I'm sure it would be even worse on stock fenders. they will eventually burn clear or you can just trim some away. mine are 27.8" i believe but I've also already trimmed my fenders quite a bit.... they still rub on big bumps tho.

its the whole reason i haven't been able to use the rear "mud flaps" that come with the l5 fenders.

Turbo-Geist

I don't run the fender liners, so that's not an issue. The place I'm worried about is the lower fender portion of the rear bumper cover.

You're right, the wider rear fenders don't address that part of the fender/rear bumper cover. I guess I may have to end up trimming that part of the body if it is a problem.

I still have my old C5 lower arms, so another option would be to re-install them and move the tire back to its original location.

Any pro/cons to using the C5 lower arm vs a C6 lower arm with a 6060 swap?

Turbo-Geist

It's too bad you can't center it in the wheel opening. It would probably require a custom control arm. Hmm....

StealthFRC

to use the c5 arm you need coil overs. the way the spring mounts is different. thats the whole reason i never swapped.

you will need to trim the fender and the rear bumper. i also had the cut a metal mount for the bumper/rear fender as that was hitting the tire aswel.

ill go get some pics of how mine are (got to love having the day off in the middle of the week lol)

robz

Keep us posted and get video on the strip so we can give feedback.

Turbo-Geist

I have the LG GT2 coil overs on the car, so it would be no issue to go back to the C5 arm if needed.

Good info to know on what to cut. Hopefully it will save me from damaging the tires or fenders. Any day off is great. I had Thursday and Friday off last week plus the weekend. Basically cut a month of Saturdays off this build.

Sounds good, Rob. Looking forward to having some data for your feedback. I can't wait to bring it to the track. Probably start off on the waste gate spring and work the ET down from there.

StealthFRC

here you go, like i said they still rub on huge bumps when i have a passenger... its also way i try not to put more then 1/2 tank in the car... but no harm no foul, just a little paint rub. ill eventually trim it all away.

in the pics the car is on a jack, when its down you can't see any of these areas unless your really looking..

Turbo-Geist

Thanks for those pictures. Now I can see where the interference issues exist. In my picture, I didn't have all of the weight on the tire and thought I would need to trim the lower part. I probably wouldn't be as concerned about trimming away that area where the fender is fairly thin.

Have you had any issues with keeping the tank at 1/2 full or less? On my last build the in tank fuel pump would starve at WOT with less than half a tank. I always had to keep the level at half to full.

StealthFRC

Nope no issues with the fuel that low, I've always run it like that and never seen issues with the afr or pressure

Turbo-Geist

Still more work to do but this is a START:

StealthFRC

sounding good, great feeling to finally hear some noise i bet.