always faster

I need a good blower cam for my setup but i got some expectation.
So i got 383 ci,11:1cr,PRC Stage 2.5 LS6 heads ,240\244@113 608\612 with all the supporting mod.Was pushing 490whp and 461wtq when i was N\A .

I totally hate this cam:
-EXR Lobe is way to much noisy and hard on the valvetrain;
-hard to drive in traffic or in parking lot,surge too.
-Really bad in mpg (between 18-20 or less)
-16 degree of overlap makes my cat turn red at idle even after tremendous tune revision and now my idle is at 1000rpm

Now i got a V3SI already installed and running at 8psi with a small dose of meth for safety.Im still breaking in the new tr6060 setup but damn do i hate this cam.

A lot of member suggest me the Jam Cam Stage 3 from Arun :230/242 115+4 .612/.615 on LXL lobe.
From what they have told me and what i ve read:

-LXL lobe is easy on the valvtrain and will still take advantage of my ported heads;
-This cam should drive nearly like stock with no surging or bucking and should idle easy at 850 rpm
-Should get at least 25 mpg (some say even close to 28) but would be happy at 25
-With only 6 degree of overlap it shouldnt dump enough fuel in my exhaust to make my cats turn red.
-Should get met in the easy 650whp and close to 700whp.

From what i want, is there any other cam that would fit my need better or i should just buy the JAM CAM.

Thanks
Eric

PEETYZ

Jam cam has a great rep can't really go wrong with it man.

always faster

Yeah i know but since i already did the mistake of not changing the cam while i was doing the blower,i dont wanna do the job all over again without searching for the right cam .

nullpointer

I'm going custom for my blower build in a few months. I wanted to make sure all my wants were taken care of so I don't have the same **** to complain about next year.

ajrothm

It's a great all around cam and will drive real nice.

You can forget about 25 mpg tho...spinning a big blower...

Hell Id kill for 20 mpg on the highway..lol

always faster

Well some member did wrote (need to search again) that they did get 25mpg on highway .

What about his stage 2 blower cam : 226/238 115+3 .605/.615 lift

Is the drivebility gonna be really better with my personnal setup ???
How much am i giving up when it come to power output between the stage 2 and stage 3 ???

Thanks for all your help.Just dont wanna do it again

ajrothm

I have the stage 2 in my 402.. It's really way too small for my setup but it drives/idles great. When I had the stick trans in it I could stuff it in 6th at 45 mph with no surge at all.. Valve train is dead silent.. Spins to 7k+ smoothly...

As far as driveability is concerned, it's great... I believe the stage 3 Jam cam will be just as good in a 383..

If I were you, I'd go with the stg 3 jam cam.

If I ever go back into my motor, I will go with a much larger blower can. Maybe like a stg 4 from Arun.

leo12

from comp cams its as close as the jam stage 3,very good manners and power

forged 402 short block, 72cc AFR 225 heads, .051" gasket, FAST 90 intake, 90mm TB, 6 speed manual, 3.42 gear, 1 7/8" headers, Intercooled procharger D1SC running 16-18psi, 6400 rpm shift points, 6800 rev limiter.
234/242 .612”/.615” 115LSA +4 advance (with 1.7 ratio rockers)
Comp LXL/LXL lobes 54-000-11 3 bolt cam core
13160R/13162R HR115LSA +4 advance (111 installed intake centerline)

Cam Valve Events 0.006 0.050 0.200
Intake Duration - ID 286 234 155 13160R LXL lobe .609"
Exhaust Duration - ED 294 242 162 13162R LXL lobe .615"
Lobe Center Angle - LSA 115 115 115
Intake Centerline - ICL 111 111 111

Intake Valve opens - IVO 32 6 -33.5 BTDC (- indicates ATDC)
Intake Valve closes - IVC 74 48 8.5 ABDC
Exhaust Valve Opens - EVO 86 60 20 BBDC
Exhaust Valve Closes - EVC 28 2 -38 ATDC (- indicates BTDC)
Exhaust Centerline - ECL 119 119 119
Overlap 60 8 -71.5 degrees


Recommended valve springs: Patriot Gold dual.
Static/Dynamic compression with new cam: 9.0:1 SCR, 6.79:1 DCR.

always faster

I got 19ci less than your engine so maybe stage 2 would be good for me ?
What do you mean by way too small ???
How much power do you think you could squeeze by switching to a stage 3 ???

I did the same mistake twice.
I did choose a too big cam and my driveability suffer a lot.Traffic and parking lot where not fun at all...
The stage 2 is close to a LPE GT14 ( 223/235 @ 115 .610/.620LIFT )

By the way there his 2 member in this thread claiming to get 25-28mpg from there boosted stage 3 cam : https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...s-729-a-2.html

Thanks
Eric

PEETYZ

I'm running a custom grind 227/235 .608/.621 on a 116 in my 346 and it's great. However I do think the slightly larger stage 3 jam cam would be great for your 383. The biggest key to driveability is the tune. Make sure the tuner really dials it in not just on the dyno and you will be golden.

always faster

Im not a cam guru but can someone tell me whats the difference between the stage 2 and stage 3.I mean i know that there is one bigger and one smaller but i heard way to many times that small cam make good power.

ajrothm: You still got into the 9 sec with a stage 2

If this info can change sometthing, its a full street car that need torque and off course good street manner.

robert miller

I have his stg 4 now if ever go back into it will go with the stg 5. Robert

always faster

Damn everyone is going bigger

always faster

Maybe forget my first post and the entire title.I should have call it .Perfectly streetable cam for my setup.

Well can someone just tell me how much am i leaving on the table with something like:

Jam cam stage 2 :226/238 115+3 .605/.615 lift , 2 degree overlap (LXL lobe)
LPE GT14 : 223/235 @ 115 .610/.620LIFT , -1 degree overlap (LSL Lobe) Already tried this one with a tvs2300 in a 730whp 6.2 liters
Tick Stage 1 :223/235 | .61x"/.61x" | LSA116+5 , -3 degree overlap (lxl,lsl lobe)

If its only something like 10whp( thats the diff between a tick stage1 and a tick stage 2 (227\243 yeah 10whp...) . Id rather go smaller and loose some minor whp but getting a street easy car to drive.

Yeah i know i ask a lot, in a perfect world i would get 100% stock street manner with maximum horsepower but where not.

Hell if 8 psi is not enough i ll just go to 10 psi but i want zero surge,zero bucking, zero problem

Thanks
Eric

winters97gt

I just had a Arun's stage 3 cam in my 346. It was tuned by a good tuner, Dave Steck. Completely streetable, no bucking, surging, etc. You can tell a cam was is in the car, and it pulled well.

My last blower car had a 402 with a cam I picked. 232/244 118+2 on a Novi 1500. That was the most drivable cam that made power I've ever driven. Car made great power for the setup and idled like a stock car. More importantly, it performed where it counts, not on a dyno.

My new setup is a 370, and I'm debating on keeping the Jam Cam, going with his stage 4 or doing one of my own cams again.

nullpointer

I asked martin@tick for exactly that (zero surge, zero bucking, zero problems) with an ECS kit and he spec'd me the following.

225/237 .621/.610 116+5.

Also the difference at (lets estimate) 10psi between that cam and

227/243 .624/.627 115+4

Is 20rwtq, but it won't drive as nice as the first specs. Just an FYI from what I've been told, maybe it will help in your decision. I'll be going with the first specs.

ajrothm

There is no way anyone can tell you exactly how it's going to drive or what kind of power difference it is going to make between two different cams.. It's all just speculation and guesses..

I feel this is true even when getting a custom grind cam from one of the many cam gurus... You talk to all of the cam specialists and you will get considerably different spec'd cams for the same combo.. As for which ones are "better"? Well.. Different combos, different cams will yield different results.. There is no way to KNOW without just testing different cams in the same build combo..

My take is, as long as the cam is not way too big or way too small for a forced induction combo, I feel there is NOT going to be a huge difference in power, especially in something relatively low power.. Hell you can make 700rwhp easy with a stock ls6 cam..

Choosing cams for a combo is a leap of faith for power production...you "hope" it makes good power.. Just know that the bigger the cam is, the less like stock it is going to drive.

I think you would be quite happy with an ARUN stg 2 or 3 cam.. The stage 2 may drive just a tad better down low...it is very mild. I made 900hp with the small stage 2... Maybe I could have made 925-930 with the stg 3..you just never know... It's all just guessing and a bit of luck..

I have seen bigger cams lose power in some situations so...I'd error to the smaller side if stock driveability is your biggest concern. Part throttle tuning has way more to do with how the car drives and cam size... You would be better off spending your time researching the best tuners in your area vs. cam selection of baby cams in regards to the best driveability.

The tune will ultimately dictate how the car drives..

Proace4

I agree 100% that a tuner will make one of the, if not the biggest difference in driveability. Probably even your fuel economy. I have not made the switch to a jam cam yet, although after TI I am in search for more power. I have something in between from A&A. Car makes decent power as is, and drives pretty smooth imo.

My car avg's 27 on the dash but when calculated its only 24.5mpg on long trips. Thats with a 402, YSi w/ 2.6" on 91 with the AC running most likely.

Reading all these cam threads always makes me swear when I go back into the motor to do my swap, I plan to install a two piece cover. lol Just in case I need to swap bump sticks again.

algZO6

I would give Brian Tooley a call. He has done my last two cams and both are performers and drive really well.

Pekka_Perkeles

Indeed.