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TR6060 Swap question

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Old 11-25-2014, 01:34 PM
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redcycle13
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Default TR6060 Swap question

I"m in the process of swapping a 2008 C6 Z06 TR6060 and differential into my 2001 C5. I am using a C6 cradle, C6 lower arms, and a C6 rear spring with RKt56 offset mounts. I have an interference issue with the diff cooler feed line on the lower portion of the differential. I want to keep the stock differential cooler pump, and was wondering if anyone ever plugged the lower line, then drilled and tapped the side of that same fitting boss?











Last edited by redcycle13; 11-26-2014 at 11:27 AM.
Old 11-25-2014, 04:58 PM
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redcycle13
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To answer my own question. The fitting supply shop suggested I have a -6 fitting welded to the boss, then drill through the -6 fitting to get my oil supply. Seems like a reasonable solution to the clearance problem while maintaining the differential cooler.
Old 11-25-2014, 08:18 PM
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BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance
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What's it interfering with?
I've seen it hit the spring until the car is set down on the ground and then the spring moves downward, providing the needed clearance.
Old 11-25-2014, 08:29 PM
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My 07' stuff hits the spring Like Bret said, but I also had to grind some of the cradle to clear that oil fitting if I remember. I'd have to take a look again, but it wasn't much grinding.
Old 11-25-2014, 08:48 PM
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redcycle13
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT56
What's it interfering with?
I've seen it hit the spring until the car is set down on the ground and then the spring moves downward, providing the needed clearance.
It's hitting the spring, which is not a big deal if it clears when the weight of the car flexes the spring down. The problem is when the car is on a lift for service, or in my case when trying to install everything with the drivetrain removed. I think welding the fitting on is a good idea, and while I'm welding I can just weld the bottom closed since I can just unfasten the -6 connection for draining of the differential fluid. If you see a problem with my logic on this, then please advise. I know the 2009 and up diff has the boss cast into the diff at a 90 angle from where it is on my 2008 differential.
Old 11-25-2014, 08:50 PM
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redcycle13
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Originally Posted by slow ride
My 07' stuff hits the spring Like Bret said, but I also had to grind some of the cradle to clear that oil fitting if I remember. I'd have to take a look again, but it wasn't much grinding.
I have already done the minor grinding on the cradle.
Old 12-02-2014, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by redcycle13
I have already done the minor grinding on the cradle.
should work just fine, and make the maint a bit easier

I'm looking to do this swap, I have the c6 cradle and suspension

do you need different offset tires staying with the c6 suspension?
Old 12-02-2014, 08:05 AM
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redcycle13
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Originally Posted by Rkreigh
should work just fine, and make the maint a bit easier

I'm looking to do this swap, I have the c6 cradle and suspension

do you need different offset tires staying with the c6 suspension?
It's my understanding the wheel offsets don't need to change for proper fitment, but the wheel is moved slightly toward the rear from the original position.
Old 12-02-2014, 08:09 AM
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I wish I would have measure the wheel location stock and with my 07' stuff. I always hear different things, but moving back helps my rubbing some. I also hear that a 28" tire will not work with this setup or be super close, but haven't tried it yet.
Old 12-02-2014, 10:44 AM
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Any idea what the issues are in relation to a 28" tall tire? I fit the Hoosier 17 inch slick without any issues using the C5 drivetrain and my car was lowered.

What are the issues with using the C6 stuff? I have to have a 28" tall tire to make this build work on the track.
Old 12-12-2014, 06:50 PM
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My questions,

1. Why run a diff Heat Exchanger? What exactly do the temps run at highway cruise with and without the H.E.?

2. Most will remove the H.E. and plug the side cover, use a stock rear C5 diff cover for over axle pipe clearance.

I've only done a couple of the C6 30 spline Z06/ZR1 trans swaps into the C5's.

Bret helped me out with the details of the swap, there is a section of the cradle that needs to ground down when using the swap mounts, doing that now will save you a lot of time.

HTH
Old 12-12-2014, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveDoten@ARH
My questions,

1. Why run a diff Heat Exchanger? What exactly do the temps run at highway cruise with and without the H.E.?

2. Most will remove the H.E. and plug the side cover, use a stock rear C5 diff cover for over axle pipe clearance.

I've only done a couple of the C6 30 spline Z06/ZR1 trans swaps into the C5's.

Bret helped me out with the details of the swap, there is a section of the cradle that needs to ground down when using the swap mounts, doing that now will save you a lot of time.

HTH
I will not be using the factory HX for the diff. I've never personally measured differential temps, but several road racers have. They claim it can overheat and destroy the differential, and I plan to take this car on the road course. With the TR6060 swap I now have the capability to use transmission and differential coolers, and it seems like a good idea that won't cost much to accomplish.
Old 12-12-2014, 07:46 PM
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I run 28's on my ride without issue, other than rubbing the liners above the tire, (which I've consequently resolved). I actually like the altered position of the wheels.
Old 12-12-2014, 07:50 PM
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What happens to the factory diff cooler? Does the heat cause it to open and allow trans fluid into the diff or what?

Originally Posted by redcycle13
I will not be using the factory HX for the diff. I've never personally measured differential temps, but several road racers have. They claim it can overheat and destroy the differential, and I plan to take this car on the road course. With the TR6060 swap I now have the capability to use transmission and differential coolers, and it seems like a good idea that won't cost much to accomplish.
Old 12-12-2014, 08:11 PM
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Is there room to drill out the center of the drain plug & weld or tap for a 90* fitting on the drain plug.
Old 12-12-2014, 08:13 PM
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Or get coil over shocks
Old 12-12-2014, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 4DRUSH
Is there room to drill out the center of the drain plug & weld or tap for a 90* fitting on the drain plug.
There is basically no room between the drain plug and transverse spring.

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Old 12-12-2014, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by redcycle13
There is basically no room between the drain plug and transverse spring.
If you thing welding a bung there is doable, then great.

Otherwise maybe loose the spring & go coilover's, since you want to road race
Old 12-12-2014, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 4DRUSH
If you thing welding a bung there is doable, then great.

Otherwise maybe loose the spring & go coilover's, since you want to road race
I don't plan to "race" the car on the road course. I just want to run 20-30 minute HPDE sessions, that's why I want to keep the cost down, and use stock suspension. Plus I don't have enough chassis setup experience to make sure my coil over setup is working correctly. It's like anything else, it's a snowball effect. You put on coil overs and sticky tires then you have to reinforce something else.

Last edited by redcycle13; 12-12-2014 at 11:04 PM.
Old 12-12-2014, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by redcycle13
I will not be using the factory HX for the diff. I've never personally measured differential temps, but several road racers have. They claim it can overheat and destroy the differential, and I plan to take this car on the road course. With the TR6060 swap I now have the capability to use transmission and differential coolers, and it seems like a good idea that won't cost much to accomplish.
Originally Posted by redcycle13
I don't plan to race the car on the road course, that's why I want to keep the cost down, and use stock suspension. Plus I don't have enough chassis setup experience to make sure my coil over setup is working correctly. It's like anything else, it's a snowball effect. You put on coil overs and sticky tires then you have to reinforce something else.


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