maznfox

Awesome just tagging along your build keep it up

westtexasbuff

Finished up the kit.






Not spending $1500 on a piece of metal (billet spindles) so I modified mine to fit 15s. Just cut and welded back. Will need to install longer studs for these wheels.






Still need to install the cam/head gaskets/studs and route the fuel lines. She should be purring soon.

Turbo-Geist

The kit is looking great. I like what you did on the spindles. Any tips on how much to remove and what weld procedure? What are the specs on the wheels?

Does anyone have some stock C5 rear spindles laying around?

Smoove

nice.

breecher_7

More info on the spindle mod would be great.

The kit is looking awesome.

Kainedogg

Thanks for all your help on Tech bro. Along for the end result as well. You are giving those Chinese front facing manifolds a good name.

ratt_finkel

Impressive turnaround time. Fun build to watch.

skull

im curious to how the modded spindle holds up. i always debated it but just never could follow thru on trusting it

blackdak318

Wow you have some serious skills. Kit looks amazing. Any update on where you relocated the alternator?

The spindle looks good to but like others I wouldn't want to risk it on such an important suspension piece. Especially drag racing with a stick tire which is going to shock that weld quite a bit.

Turbo-Geist

In for a discussion on how drag racing, which primarily places a tosional load on the axles, is going to stress the weld on a part that is used to connect the upper and lower control arms. The hub is connected to the spindles, but from a degree of freedom analysis standpoint it is free to rotate and would not impart a torsional load. A proper weld is as strong or stronger than the base metal where the fusion occurs.

westtexasbuff, any dimensions and tips on this modification, or should I take some measurements and make my own?

skull

he probably just cut 3/4 of an inch out and welded because you can fit 16" rear rims if you hammer the top of the spindle flat.

As far as doing hard launches as stated really wouldn't have any effect other then the car squatting which mostly goes into the shocks and the stress of traction is on the diff and axles.

JDS99

The spindle is not that thick for no reason... obviously rotation is just through the hub, and vertical loading is no biggie. That's not the majority of the loading that the spindle takes though. The grip from the tire at any point, hard lauch etc. transfers the rotational energy into a thrust load. That thrust load puts a hard bending moment on the spindle above and below the hub center. That's why the control arms are triangulated, to support forward and reverse thrust loads.

True, Ben the strength of the spindle is it's weakest point and now the fusion and weld cross section. I wouldn't say it's strong or stronger than it was before. If the spindle was forged/heat treated in original state, it has now been annealed and is weaker than before no matter what you do. For proper weld, you also need to know what the base material is..

The thought has definitely crossed my mind to mill a section out, dowel pin centers, and weld back shortened. But just can't get myself to take the risk. Op, I hope it works out for you since I know several of us have thought about doing that.

skull

lol you know ever person who bought a c5/6 and found out they couldn't run 15's had this thought cross their mind.

westtexasbuff

Yeah I definitely did a lot of research on this before I decided to do it. Didn't see it done before, there were a few people who were on the fence about it tho (kind of hard to find discussion on this).

The community around here usually has the money to shell out $1500 on a set of spindles, but I like to save money where I can. Guess I'll be the guinea pig in this experiment.

From my understanding, the load is all mostly placed on the shock and spring. I've seen this done (cut and weld spindle) on a steel spindle, but not an aluminum one. The steel spindle held up fine with the weld. I'll probably do a few launches on it from low speeds at first and then inspect them.

As for what I did;
- disassemble spindle from car
- cut off 1"
- welded back with 4043 filler

I've only done one so far, I'll take pics when I do the other side.

chuntington101

I would take it easy on the first couple of launches and then build up to harder launches. Keep checking the weld regularly for cracking. Is there room to add anymore material to help distribute the load over a larger area? Thinking a could of say 1/2inch strips of ally welded on to each side of the weld should help quite a bit.

Also did you head the unit before welding? I have heard this really helps get penetration in cast items.

RC000E

I'm in for the alternator solution...please detail. How is your front bumper fitment?

Sounds like you got a mean deal on that Z. Is that the higher mile one on here that sold for around 13k? I recall it being red but looked cleaner than some 100k cars. My S2k hadn't sold yet or I'd own that car and would've daily'd the **** out of it.

breecher_7

Im looking for a set of stock spindles and Im going to give this a shot.

Im thinking that if I cut them down as mentioned and machine them true and drill 2-3 1/4" dowl pins, then cut a 3/16" deep 30 degree chamfer around all edges it would be super strong and true after being welded.

Before this thread I had never even thought of doing this, but I think its a great idea.

If anyone has a lead on a set of spindles let me know!

boostedcatfish

http://www.contemporarycorvette.com/...uckle-10237239

Im ordering a set soon, im thinking about doing the same thing

breecher_7

Can anyone confirm the Overall height of the billet units?

boostedcatfish

does anyone know if these are forged or casted spindles?