ecs instal
10-20-2017, 04:26 AM
#201
Drifting
Thread Starter
tuning, if you do it yourself:
get all of the stuff intalled on the stock engine, wideband and what ever. see how it is on the stock engine and learn what to log. im sure nobody will do it, we are impatient creatures. so, you can take out the blower and install the original tensioner with the original belt. yes, it will work. it will also work with the ecs tensioner in place, but i dont remember what belt you need.
then learn how to log the transmission. ist quite involved, i think, like there is no input shaft sensor on our cars and gm.tccp is not for the 4l60e and gives strage values. seriously, i think logging the trans is far more difficult than the engine. and its whats going to die on you first. it will be extremly dfficult to find out whats going on when the trans is giving problems without a solid baseline.
also get rid of the maf. there is no reson for it existing. even emissions are better without it. try and make life simple.
get all of the stuff intalled on the stock engine, wideband and what ever. see how it is on the stock engine and learn what to log. im sure nobody will do it, we are impatient creatures. so, you can take out the blower and install the original tensioner with the original belt. yes, it will work. it will also work with the ecs tensioner in place, but i dont remember what belt you need.
then learn how to log the transmission. ist quite involved, i think, like there is no input shaft sensor on our cars and gm.tccp is not for the 4l60e and gives strage values. seriously, i think logging the trans is far more difficult than the engine. and its whats going to die on you first. it will be extremly dfficult to find out whats going on when the trans is giving problems without a solid baseline.
also get rid of the maf. there is no reson for it existing. even emissions are better without it. try and make life simple.
10-20-2017, 08:56 PM
#203
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11-04-2017, 12:38 PM
#204
Drifting
Thread Starter
the engine is completely stock so far, except for the fuel system as per above. it will be getting new springs and rockers over the winter.
is it wise to take out the restrictor? it really depends what you are after. if you want no problems and just drive the car dont. i myself cant stop tinkering with cars, so i did. expect to see the limits of the belt the fuel system and the trans. get 100 ron for sure.
if your not tuning yourself i would not. when the car gives up the ghost you will not blame yourself but the tuner, no good for anybody.
is it wise to take out the restrictor? it really depends what you are after. if you want no problems and just drive the car dont. i myself cant stop tinkering with cars, so i did. expect to see the limits of the belt the fuel system and the trans. get 100 ron for sure.
if your not tuning yourself i would not. when the car gives up the ghost you will not blame yourself but the tuner, no good for anybody.
12-03-2017, 03:35 PM
#205
Drifting
Thread Starter
i changed from the "stock" 3.48 pulley to a shure grip 3.15, that is coated with some (tungsten?) carbide grains. it is smaller by 9%, as measured on the od of the belt and has flanges. the advantage is, that the belt wont jump anymore. disadvantage: you dont know in what direction it wants to go.
question to ecs/paxton: why dont you use flanged pulleys?
i used to have 180 kpa @5600 rpm. in theory i should be getting: 180 x 1.09 = 196, but i now see 200 kpa @ 5600 rpm. at 5900 boost rose from 190 to around 220, maybe higher. its hard to say, because things happen very fast at redline and as i still have a 2 bar map i have to use peripheral vision and the analog gauge. result are better than expected, probably due to less belt slip from the coating and rpm belt.
the idea behind the pulley is to have boost come in earlier and limit it at the top somehow. i shift at 5900 now, otherwise i would overboost the engine, the rise is very fast as it comes off the cam. im also at 54k at the impeller vs. 52k official redline. i wonder how much you can overdrive the sl units for short periods of time.
question to ecs/paxton: why dont you use flanged pulleys?
i used to have 180 kpa @5600 rpm. in theory i should be getting: 180 x 1.09 = 196, but i now see 200 kpa @ 5600 rpm. at 5900 boost rose from 190 to around 220, maybe higher. its hard to say, because things happen very fast at redline and as i still have a 2 bar map i have to use peripheral vision and the analog gauge. result are better than expected, probably due to less belt slip from the coating and rpm belt.
the idea behind the pulley is to have boost come in earlier and limit it at the top somehow. i shift at 5900 now, otherwise i would overboost the engine, the rise is very fast as it comes off the cam. im also at 54k at the impeller vs. 52k official redline. i wonder how much you can overdrive the sl units for short periods of time.
Last edited by romandian; 12-03-2017 at 03:46 PM.
12-12-2017, 02:05 AM
#206
i changed from the "stock" 3.48 pulley to a shure grip 3.15, that is coated with some (tungsten?) carbide grains. it is smaller by 9%, as measured on the od of the belt and has flanges. the advantage is, that the belt wont jump anymore. disadvantage: you dont know in what direction it wants to go.
question to ecs/paxton: why dont you use flanged pulleys?
i used to have 180 kpa @5600 rpm. in theory i should be getting: 180 x 1.09 = 196, but i now see 200 kpa @ 5600 rpm. at 5900 boost rose from 190 to around 220, maybe higher. its hard to say, because things happen very fast at redline and as i still have a 2 bar map i have to use peripheral vision and the analog gauge. result are better than expected, probably due to less belt slip from the coating and rpm belt.
the idea behind the pulley is to have boost come in earlier and limit it at the top somehow. i shift at 5900 now, otherwise i would overboost the engine, the rise is very fast as it comes off the cam. im also at 54k at the impeller vs. 52k official redline. i wonder how much you can overdrive the sl units for short periods of time.
question to ecs/paxton: why dont you use flanged pulleys?
i used to have 180 kpa @5600 rpm. in theory i should be getting: 180 x 1.09 = 196, but i now see 200 kpa @ 5600 rpm. at 5900 boost rose from 190 to around 220, maybe higher. its hard to say, because things happen very fast at redline and as i still have a 2 bar map i have to use peripheral vision and the analog gauge. result are better than expected, probably due to less belt slip from the coating and rpm belt.
the idea behind the pulley is to have boost come in earlier and limit it at the top somehow. i shift at 5900 now, otherwise i would overboost the engine, the rise is very fast as it comes off the cam. im also at 54k at the impeller vs. 52k official redline. i wonder how much you can overdrive the sl units for short periods of time.
Removing the restrictor, and now pulley'ing down on stock engine and auto trans. Are you a basejumper as well?
Joke aside, the flanged blower pulley looks like a good idea. I guess it's possible to get one in the standard size as well. Where did you buy it?
12-26-2017, 01:40 PM
#208
Drifting
Thread Starter
i replaced the ecs intake with this one. there were over two inches between rad an intake. i thought i could better that. please guess how much boost i picked up.
edit: the shreaded belt in the last picture is from when the ps pulley let go and waiting for the rpm belt to show up.
edit: the shreaded belt in the last picture is from when the ps pulley let go and waiting for the rpm belt to show up.
Last edited by romandian; 12-28-2017 at 11:28 AM.
12-26-2017, 05:15 PM
#209
duct
That part is no longer used on the C5. It was replaced with a 4" aluminum tube a long time ago at this point. The aluminum tube mounts the filter in clean air down around the bottom of the chassis cross member and forward off the rad. Was done basically at the same time as the new rad cover and hold downs were. I had posted some screen captures of the cad file for the rad hold downs and cover in april of 15. Parts were done some what later with the duct being the last part to change over.
12-27-2017, 10:00 AM
#211
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St. Jude Donor '15
What's that new tube made out of?
09-06-2018, 10:15 AM
#214
Drifting
Thread Starter
my last post on the intake seems to have disappeared last year. i just posted this and i cannot see it, so no idea whats going on.
anyways, the larger intake had no influence on boost or power, as far as i could measure (efilive). the original intake tube is perfectly o.k. up tp 6000 rpm and 205 kpa boost.
inspite of the substantial gains beeing posted by adding somke kind of funnel in front of the charger, this is what i have experienced.
roman dian
anyways, the larger intake had no influence on boost or power, as far as i could measure (efilive). the original intake tube is perfectly o.k. up tp 6000 rpm and 205 kpa boost.
inspite of the substantial gains beeing posted by adding somke kind of funnel in front of the charger, this is what i have experienced.
roman dian
Last edited by romandian; 09-14-2018 at 03:36 AM.
09-06-2018, 03:14 PM
#215
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take the filter and tube off completely and it will probably pick up some more, how much will vary
09-07-2018, 11:55 AM
#217
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St. Jude Donor '15
09-11-2018, 06:47 AM
#218
Are you sure your sideways-adjustable spring tensioner is adjusted correctly? Mine where not, and thats why my belt was jumping one rib. After I got it adjusted its running perfect.
Last edited by CorvetteC5Norway; 09-11-2018 at 06:48 AM.
09-14-2018, 03:43 AM
#219
Drifting
Thread Starter
Looking at your pictures, it looks like your new flanged pulley is chewing on the sides of the belt quite hard. That i also what I've read is the downside with these pulleys.
Are you sure your sideways-adjustable spring tensioner is adjusted correctly? Mine where not, and thats why my belt was jumping one rib. After I got it adjusted its running perfect.
Are you sure your sideways-adjustable spring tensioner is adjusted correctly? Mine where not, and thats why my belt was jumping one rib. After I got it adjusted its running perfect.
Last edited by romandian; 12-05-2019 at 02:18 AM.
12-04-2019, 06:17 PM
#220
Drifting
so the installation or the main part of it will take place on the 23th of july. the local mecanic will let me work on his lift, while hes on vacation. the apprentice will be there, in case i need help.
i will be removing the rack, pinning the crank, breaking the bracket, installing all idlers and tensioner, the head unit and the belt. if im lucky i will drive home. how long is that goint to take? what do you reckon?
all the radiator stuff i will do over the weekend and the rest afterwards.
im going to lose the airpump and im seriously considering getting ridd of the ac as well.
good news: i found the dipstick. its the round head allen screw in the head unit.
questions:
1. does the upper side of the radiator really move back, as you have to cut the upper hose?
2. how are the aluminum brackets attachet to the upper radiator support? they seem to short, the hole woud be on the corner more or less. im tempted to make my own with 4 holes.
edit: forget this. i didnt realise the sides have to be cut off. the brackets will do fine.
3. as my mafless pipe has no provisions for the iat sensor, is it really a good idea to use the rubber gromet and original sensor? would anybody know of a "plug and play" screw in sensor? (i dont want to mess with calibrating it, have done that before).
4. i want to remote mount the map sensor, probably into the booster line. while i believe the original will stay in place after 15 years, if i take it out and put in the new one i wont ever be sure what its doing back there. besides i read that the map maniford can break, basically ruining the intake. good idea or not?
5. dough let me have a 2 bar sd tune to play with. should i flash it in, install the injectors and and test it on the stock car?
btw, if anybody wonders about the stock tune and would like to have anything logged, now is the time to tell me.
i will be removing the rack, pinning the crank, breaking the bracket, installing all idlers and tensioner, the head unit and the belt. if im lucky i will drive home. how long is that goint to take? what do you reckon?
all the radiator stuff i will do over the weekend and the rest afterwards.
im going to lose the airpump and im seriously considering getting ridd of the ac as well.
good news: i found the dipstick. its the round head allen screw in the head unit.
questions:
1. does the upper side of the radiator really move back, as you have to cut the upper hose?
2. how are the aluminum brackets attachet to the upper radiator support? they seem to short, the hole woud be on the corner more or less. im tempted to make my own with 4 holes.
edit: forget this. i didnt realise the sides have to be cut off. the brackets will do fine.
3. as my mafless pipe has no provisions for the iat sensor, is it really a good idea to use the rubber gromet and original sensor? would anybody know of a "plug and play" screw in sensor? (i dont want to mess with calibrating it, have done that before).
4. i want to remote mount the map sensor, probably into the booster line. while i believe the original will stay in place after 15 years, if i take it out and put in the new one i wont ever be sure what its doing back there. besides i read that the map maniford can break, basically ruining the intake. good idea or not?
5. dough let me have a 2 bar sd tune to play with. should i flash it in, install the injectors and and test it on the stock car?
btw, if anybody wonders about the stock tune and would like to have anything logged, now is the time to tell me.