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Kenne Bell ls1 Results

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Old 11-17-2015, 08:55 AM
  #41  
wildthingwood1994
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Originally Posted by NITRO UK
Crabr1

Not sure if i have asked before but do you have the crescent shaped tool to align the snout idler bracket , dont think the op has one .

If yes maybe measure it ? might help the op
I have the head unit with the spacer built in so no crescent tool is necessary.

I think it's really pointing to the idler and I've considered the idea of finding one with outside ridges to "hold" the belt in place. Not sure if that would be effective or not.
Old 11-17-2015, 11:50 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by wildthingwood1994
I have the head unit with the spacer built in so no crescent tool is necessary.

I think it's really pointing to the idler and I've considered the idea of finding one with outside ridges to "hold" the belt in place. Not sure if that would be effective or not.
The only downside to an idler with a lip,if you can find one...you might create a squeal,but might be worth a shot..
Old 11-17-2015, 02:40 PM
  #43  
NITRO UK
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Just noticed the op has pre spaced unit as well so forget that

Maybe use a true square block of metal placed against the idler and front face of bracket , rotate idler to check there is contact all round so you know it's not cocked

Also I used a 12 inch tq wrench on my tensioner which took 38lbs to move it with out clicking

Old 11-21-2015, 01:38 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by NITRO UK
Just noticed the op has pre spaced unit as well so forget that

Maybe use a true square block of metal placed against the idler and front face of bracket , rotate idler to check there is contact all round so you know it's not cocked

Also I used a 12 inch tq wrench on my tensioner which took 38lbs to move it with out clicking

Mine only took 24lbs to move it without clicking, so I moved the idler in one notch to tighten it up to 30lbs but the belt came off even quicker (too much belt wrap). So maybe a shorter belt is in due.
Old 11-22-2015, 10:16 AM
  #45  
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I would think the shorter the better for spring tention on the belt as long as you have a little movement on the tensioner when you release it.

What length is your tq wrench ? If it's longer wouldn't that make a difference with leverage.

All a bit of a pita eh .

Old 11-23-2015, 11:08 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by NITRO UK
I would think the shorter the better for spring tention on the belt as long as you have a little movement on the tensioner when you release it.

What length is your tq wrench ? If it's longer wouldn't that make a difference with leverage.

All a bit of a pita eh .

It's a half inch drive torque wrench. I've already had a shorter belt on once I'm almost positive that this still isn't the problem.
Old 11-23-2015, 01:58 PM
  #47  
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Pita, was going with lack of belt tension .

If you have a long straight edge , ruler etc I would check alignment again just to eliminate any probs with your laser, think I was able to rest it on the alternator pulley, p/steering and crank pulley at the same time , not ideal but might show something .

Also I have an 8 rib kit from innovators west for my TVS it does have a smooth idler with lips on the sides , so might be worth having a word with them if you want to try that .

Is the belt consistently coming of the front of the alternator pulley ?

Old 11-25-2015, 01:30 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by NITRO UK
Pita, was going with lack of belt tension .

If you have a long straight edge , ruler etc I would check alignment again just to eliminate any probs with your laser, think I was able to rest it on the alternator pulley, p/steering and crank pulley at the same time , not ideal but might show something .

Also I have an 8 rib kit from innovators west for my TVS it does have a smooth idler with lips on the sides , so might be worth having a word with them if you want to try that .

Is the belt consistently coming of the front of the alternator pulley ?

It consistently comes off the rear of the alternator, pulley which luckily kind of holds it on until I notice it, but also tears it up
Old 11-26-2015, 02:39 AM
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Might be worth trying to move pulley or alternator towards motor .

Not going to be easy that one though .

Or try the liped smooth idler from i west .



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