NosLaser

I have a question regarding the Nitrous Outlet C5 specific fuel system, mainly regarding the trigger mechanism.

I currently have an LNC2000 that is set to retard timing off the orange input wire going to the full throttle microswitch, and I want to set the dedicated fuel system up to do the same. If you look at the following diagram, this indicates the system being activated on a switch.




My question, is can I run the wire that is going from pin 86 on the relay to the full throttle microswitch, essentially making that my trigger to activate the fuel pump in that fuel cell?

I'm trying to make the nitrous system on my car as automated as possible. I like the idea that I can run around on my aggressive motor tune, but when I arm the nitrous and go full throttle, I have systems in place that automatically handle everything for me.

NosLaser

Oh, and if the Nitrous Outlet vendor on here views this, is there any forum discount?

c_white

Yes u can, I spiced my LNC 2000 and my nos window switch/tps off my arming switch. I'm with ya I wanted mine as simple/easy to use. I flip one switch and open my bottle and it's go time! (If Bottle is at temp of course )

c_white

And no, I've tried lol

Shoaf85

I would personally wire the fuel cell pump up to the nitrous system arming switch and not the activation wire. That way when the system is activated there will be no wait time for the pump to pressurize the fuel line as fuel will be at the solenoid waiting. Just my .02 and I've installed/tuned quite a few of these. It is also I good idea to set the fuel pressure on the standalone system WHILE THE FUEL SOLENOID IS OPEN AND SPRAYING THROUGH THE BIGGEST JET YOU INTEND TO RUN. If not you may see a lean spike on the hit. More common on large shots but definitely something to keep in mind.

NosLaser

Ahhh I see what you are saying. Any issue with the pump running for more than a couple seconds before the system is actually used? Reason I ask is for like shut down at the track; I'd disarm the system as quickly as I could but it's more important to get on the brakes at some tracks kinda quickly so it may take a second or so.

I guess I could set fuel pressure on the dyno using the method you recommended, as I won't be switching things around at all. Once it is dialed in at 150 shot, I'll be using the same jets, same fuel, etc etc so the system is as "set it and forget it" as possible.

EDIT: Do you have a recommended starting fuel pressure for a 150 shot on the N2O plate kit?

Shoaf85

The fuel system/pump on the tank is regulated with a return so it won't hurt a thing for it to run for a while. In short if you set the fuel pump psi with the pump running dead headed into the CLOSED solenoid the pressure will look good but the pressure WILL drop once the solenoid is opened causing a lean spike until the pump can catch back up. With that said disconnect the fuel line to the plate/nozzle and install the jet you plan to run on the kit on the end of the line. Insert the line into a bucket or container to avoid a mess lol. Then have a helper manually activate the fuel solenoid (while the pump is running obviously) and set the pressure to your specs WHILE THE FUEL IS FLOWING THROUGH THE SOLENOID! After this is done yes the fuel pressure may be a little bit higher than you'd think it should be while the noid is not open but once the noid opens viola you have the correct FLOWING PSI. Of course once this is done you can fine tune the fueling via small adjustments to the fuel psi or fuel jetting without having to do all that over again.

Now granted Im sure on a small shot this may not be as noticeable but the last car I tuned with a setup like this was not set this way and on a 200 shot it had a very noticeable and quite frankly dangerously lean for a full second into a fourth gear pull.

Nitrous Outlet jetting is based off of stock pressures so I normally shoot for 55-60 of flowing pressure.

0NitrousOutlet

Like Shoaf85 said, wire it to the nitrous arming switch. It is perfectly fine to run the pump for a little bit before you are actually spraying. Its a return system so the fuel is just going to circulate. Flowing fuel pressure is key to any nitrous system which is why we push flow tools a lot! If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask. You can always email me at Matt@nitrousoutlet.com or gimme call at the shop ext 111. We are always happy to answer any questions. -Matt

Dave70

Glad I read this. I always thought that with a stand alone fuel system the fuel psi to the fuel noid would not need to have a very high psi. Since you are not going through an injector you could run carb type psi 7-9 psi or so. Or is the high psi just required because the fuel noid used was for a fuel injected application? In other words could you use a carb specific noid and save $$ with a low pressure standalone pump? Sorry if it's a stupid question but I'm thinking about going with a standalone so I can run race gas in the standalone and get a little Saftey cushion.

0NitrousOutlet

The dedicated fuel cell is nice because you can use C16 and allow that safety cushion you were talking about. You can also get more aggressive on timing. You can run the dedicated at either High or Low psi with just changing the spring in the regulator. Personally i like Low PSI because you can start tuning with 1/4lb increments. Its all personal preference tho and wont make THAT big of a difference unless you have and use a flow tool. -Matt

Awesome04Vette

Has anyone installed this kit with vararam intake on the car? Trying to make it fit. Don't want to run factory air box

JoeyG

i bcouldnt get it to fit nicely with the vararam. I went back to a breathless vortex rammer intake. But that was like 8 yrs ago