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No close ups for now but I could take some when I pull it all back apart to finish the paint and get everything ceramic/powder coated. I just cut a nice big square out of it large enough to fit my IC and then welded plates over the open ends(top and two sides).
Went out to check the fuel system for leaks last night and had a little puddle under the drivers tank and it turns out the wiring bulkhead on the RSI hanger is leaking.
RSI has informed me that the bulkhead is discontinued so I am basically SOL. If anyone has any suggestions I am open to anything except scrapping the RSI hanger as I just spent a ton of money on lines and fittings to fit the RSI hanger.
RSI has essentially told me I’m SOL but if I can wait they will be making a new C5 hanger sometime this winter... They were either unwilling to give me any further info to help me find a suitable replacement or they don’t actually know enough to tell me what the thread pitch and depth is for the bulkhead so I can try to source my own.
going to do a google search now so i can try and picture what your working with. if its a simple bolt through design type bulkhead then maybe just a thread measuring tool off amazon or your local Fastenal may be able to tell what it is. of course this will require removal but I'm sure your aware that's gonna happen to fix the leak anyways. also you could order a different bulkhead fitting from another company based off diameter of the fitting and line size coming off of it.
I'm trying to upload a picture but my phone is being a POS. It is a threaded sleeve with a nut machined onto it that threads into the hanger itself, then a white mushroom looking gasket slips in there that has 6 holes for the wires to pass through, then there is a locking nut that goes over the top of the mushroom gasket and threads to the sleeve that is threaded into the hat. The fuel seems to be coming through all of the holes for the wires.
I've looked at ATL, Radium and Racetronix bulkheads but none of their designs look like they will fit inside the hat. Currently, my only decent idea is to fill the mushroom gasket with jb weld and then tighten the nut down and let it dry and hope that seals it up.
just went back a page and checked out the rsi. my suggestion would be measure and find specs for a new bulkhead and replace as needed. best quick option as of now. or seal with a fuel safe epoxy for temper fix.
lol beat me to the thought...id try to research a good quality epoxy/rtv that will seal tight and use that. should do you just fine.
Everything I have read leads me to believe that JB Weld is the best option my only limiting factor at this point is figuring out what type of rubber/plastic the mushroom gasket is made out of so I can figure out what will adhere to it.
Thanks for the help though, good to have a second opinion to bounce ideas off.
I fought this battle for about 3 month a when I made my own double pumper. I tried teflon seals, I tried jb weld, I even put insulated bolts through the top hit and the wire wicking would not stop. I had no luck and was forced to scrap what I had. There isn't a whole lot you can do. I know Bret has a solution that I read somewhere he would sell but that's about it. Get in touch with him and tell him Derric "all4spl" sent you. He is a wealth of knowledge and should be able to have something for you.
Yea, Bret actually spec’d my motor for me and helped me out with my base map and we had talked about him building me a double pumper previously until this RSI hanger fell into my lap. Should have just bought his in the first place. I guess I’m F’d until I can put together enough to get one from him.
The epoxy and seal-all did not work, the wiring bulkhead was still seeping so I pulled it back out and completely disassembled the RSI hanger again. Ran a tap through the hole to make sure it was a 1/2” NPT thread and to clean some residual seal all out of the threads. I got one quote from Paveloc for $500 + a one time $950 charge for tooling and what not to make a 1/2” NPT bulkhead with 4x 12awg and 2x 20 awg but thats obviously way to expensive for a 7 year old pump hanger so that was scrapped for now.
Bought a new oem fuel pump hanger and pump as well as a Radium MPFST with dual Racetronix 342 pumps and Ill be adding a Fore FC3 pump controller to handle all my fueling needs for now and get the car rolling.
Last edited by Turpid porpoise; 12-14-2017 at 08:02 AM.
Got the rad shroud done, rad pipes are cut, welded and bead rolled, hot side charge pipe was redone to go to then passenger side(close proximity to wastegates) so the heat from the gates doesn't heat the cold side pipe, rad fans are wired and fuel lines are complete. I'll post a few pics of the surge tank and lines tonight.
There is about 3/4" clearance between turbo and rad pipe.
just curious since i seen your update. whats your plan for the radium tank setup now? as far as where you thinking of mounting it and are you just going to have the regular tank pump feed it and return off it. then radium feed both rails kind of deal? the surge tank setup seems to be the go too for big power boost setups. easy and cheaper than some others
just curious since i seen your update. whats your plan for the radium tank setup now? as far as where you thinking of mounting it and are you just going to have the regular tank pump feed it and return off it. then radium feed both rails kind of deal? the surge tank setup seems to be the go too for big power boost setups. easy and cheaper than some others
I just realized I never posted that. I cut a sheet of steel to the shape of the drivers rear cubby and I mounted to surge tank to it and covered the cubby. I put 5 bulkheads in the floor of the trunk to get all the lines in and out(didn't like the idea of grommets). I'll be cutting out the cubby to make a bracket that mounts to the underside of the surge tank plate and the side of the frame rail so it has no chance of moving around.
I have the stock pump and return line filling the surge tank, one pump in the tank runs full time to the rails and one pump kicks on at 3-4 psi via Hobbs switch. I have both pumps plumbed in this order Pump->6AN bulkhead->check valve->Y-block->8AN hose->fuel filter. Since the tank is so small I wanted to avoid running both pumps full time to reduce fuel temps. At the motor I have a Y block that splits the 8AN hose back down to dual 6AN hose to the back of each rail.
Side note - I also have a 8AN pressure port after the Y Block with a vibrant 4AN restrictor fitting->6AN adapter->siphon jet pump feed line. The vibrant restrictor came with two different size orifice fittings and you can use it without the orifice fittings for a larger orifice. I figure thats the best way to make sure I get proper function of of the siphon pump.
Last edited by Turpid porpoise; 02-07-2018 at 08:21 AM.
sounds like a good plan to me. i always liked the idea of using those cubbies to your advantage. hopefully that 6an line is enough to support your needs.
sounds like a good plan to me. i always liked the idea of using those cubbies to your advantage. hopefully that 6an line is enough to support your needs.
I'm less worried about the 6AN line than I am the 8AN. There are a lot of guys running 600ish whp on the OE feed line(3/8") so with a 3/8" line going to each rail I should have the capacity there. It's stuffing fuel from twin 3/8" hose into a 1/2" hose that worries me but if I have an issue there I can always replace the 8AN sections with 10AN and move along.
11-27-2017, 05:16 PM
