tommypenguin

Hey guys, am currently at the planning stages of my next build and know when to ask for help when going into uncharted waters in terms of experience. Bear with me for the long post.

Current Setup: 01 Corvette Coupe Manual 730whp/601wtq at a mile high altitude

A&A Kit with V3 si supercharger and 3.6 pulley/meth/60lb injectors and LPE fuel pump with BAP.

Stock Short Block with upgraded rings and bearings
Ported 243 Heads with Beehive PSI springs
220r Cam which is 220/220
Headers/Exhaust
Fast92 IM
LS2 TB

Other Supporting Mods: Upgraded Clutch, Suspension, Rear End, Brakes, Tires

Edited Goals: Would like to hit 1000whp that can be weekend warrior street driven potentially on a few hour road trip. Secondly I want to simplify points of failure/issues. IE, remove methanol, boost a pump, prevent belt slip, over spinning SC, prevent the need to tear down motor a second time

Planned Upgrades:

317 Heads Ported to lower compression (Already have)
LQ4 Block with stock crank and forged rods/pistons (Have a lead on one that has been magnafluxed)

Upgrade Fuel Pump(s) and Injectors to E85 to remove Methanol System
Have never upgraded fuel other than injectors in my life could use feedback. Was thinking of running 1000cc injectors, Aeromotive A1000 External pump with Hobbs Switch and upgrading lines and rails? Do I need specific rails if I do upgrade for my fast 92 IM? Should I just buy a kit like A&A offers? Ideally if there is a cheaper solution that accomplishes supporting E85 tune that will support 1000whp I'm all ears. Reminder I'm a mile high in altitude and can get away with a little less fuel than if I were at sea level. Could really use some feedback from those who have experience.

YSI supercharger, not sure what pulley/boost is needed, 8 rib kit and flip drive? Or do I only need an 8 rib kit? What is the most cost effective way for me to upgrade my supercharger to YSI and prevent belt slip?

Plan of Attack:

This is going to be a 1-1.5 year project that I plan on incrementally piecing together. Was planning on starting with fuel. Installing, working out any bugs with the new fuel setup and retuning for it on my current setup. While doing this I would be piecing together my short block and potentially 8 rib components as they pop up for sale on the forum and lastly to the YSI charger.

Anything I'm not considering that I should be? Also any constructive criticism/feedback is welcome.

Side note, forging my current shortblock is not an option. Not willing to go the downtime of pulling the motor, diassembling, waiting for machine work, reassembling, etc. Thanks.

Quickshift_C5

Hey, thanks for posting this. I was just starting to look into this myself. Subscribing.

C5 Pete

On E85 there really isn't any reason for lowering the CR below 11:1.

You'll certainly want a flip drive/direct drive 8 rib pulley setup.

2.7 upper pulley.
IW overdrive balancer.
160 injectors and the biggest fuel system you can build. External pump on a hobbs switch. Return style. The easiest way to build that is to use the ECS fuel hat.

Have fun with your build.

tommypenguin

Thanks for the info. I'm running ported 243 heads and currently at 10.5:1 compression. On a 2.75 pulley I'm going to be in the neighborhood of 20lbs of boost. With forged rods and and dished pistons I could lower compression and retain my current heads and maybe get down to high 9's. That would be fine for an e85 map.

To add a little more info this is a car I still want to be able to drive around town. In a perfect world I would like to have two maps, one for pump gas and one for e85. Might be wishful thinking on the pump gas map and 20lbs of boost? But either way would need a pump gas map in the event I can't get to an e85 station it might have to be a limp mode map with fuel cutoff at low boost rpm unless there is a cost effective electronic boost control option I'm unaware of.

On 317 heads and LQ4 motor, stock compression is 9.4:1. Was hoping by running dished pistons and possibly a thick cometic head gasket I could get compression down into the high 8's which would lead to a pump gas map.

I'm pulling these projected compression numbers with dished pistons and thicker head gasket out of my a$$. Any chance someone has a formula/calculator website I can use to figure out what setup will get what compression?

It doesn't sound like I need to go with aftermarket fuel rails. The kits from A&A and ECS both retain them as they tap into factor fuel line?

Is the kit you were referring to I should consider?

http://www.eastcoastsupercharging.co...category_id=89

Thanks again for helping a newb in these areas.

MVP'S ZO6

I may get beat up for this but it is what it is.

Here opinion Just as you've asked for.


At a minimum you should consider a forged internal upgrade to include the crank. Before anyone says anything about someone's SBE car hailing the mail for 20 years at 1,000 WHP; that's fine but just because someone gets away with it don't make it right.


Anyway as I was saying, completely forged rotating assembly. You're trying to jump almost 300 wheel HP. That means with your larger blower and you're going to over spin that blower to get there. That means you are going to put quite a bit of stress on that crank as well as the rest of the components. Something you may not be considering is The extra money spent on forged components is a fraction of the price and or time and sanity it cost to R&R your engine because of broke parts.


I'd get with blownbluez06 on one of his fuel systems. They work and you won't need a boost a pump. A secondary drive and a 8 rib blower drive at a minimum.

You may want to consider a different camshaft and springs too.

Btw I think with your current engine head and cam set up you will be in the neighborhood of 25+ lbs of boost with a 2.75 blower pulley on a YSi.

Enjoy.

robert miller

Mikey, I agree with you buddy don't see it holding together at that 1,k rwhp. Now maybe if it is not run hard at all. Plus same on that cam chg it out also not see that doing what you want on the top end 5500 plus rpm range. On the springs if you run the car like you have stolen it the beehives will not hold up to that kind of tear for long at all with a blower on the car. Now N/A motor yes they will.. Robert

neverstop

I'd go with 1/2 inch head studs while you're in there. if you want a reliable 1,000whp you can beat on all the time starting to get to the edge of 4 bolt setup. Others may disagree.

since you have the car apart seems like would be a shame to not get a custom cam ground.

If it were me I'd keep the meth and put it at single nozzle m15 tip. I think the lower IATs and better octane help the reliability of the car and make it more forgiving, and at that power level a single nozzle is not a ton of additional fuel, especially with e85 so you can tune the car to be ok if you have some meth issue. I've had meth on my car for years and never had any issues so concerns about alky control meth kit reliability are overblown imo. A friend of mine has ran alky control on his car for 50k miles too including open tracking it constantly, driving 400 miles each way and making 15-20 1/2 mile passes, then driving it home, etc. Never had any reliability issues. Such a simple kit, just a pump and a switch basically.


if you're pulling off the normal 6 rib belt setup may as well go 10 rib, it's not that much more than an 8 rib and is big improvement. If i was doing my car again I would have done the 10 rib. 8 rib is holding my D1sc without a flip drive at 900whp but just barely. It may be more reliable actually to go with flip/direct drive.


What you're doing is basically what I did with my car, the change in the car from 760whp/700tq to 907whp/860tq was ENORMOUS too, car is completely different and crazy how much faster it feels now. I will say that you should consider some 17" rims and drag radials too as no way you will hook up 3rd gear on the street with 19" drag radials at 1k whp. on the street 19" nt05r spin hard on my car in third.

and mantic clutch ftw. My mcleod rxt let go at 860whp. others have not had issues but the mantic is much better to drive and more reliable imo.

algZO6

don't try and reinvent the wheel, keep it simple and copy one of the proven setups. also, keep in mind dyno numbers are just that. when doing your recon look at someones trap speed to get a measure of their true horsepower. you would be surprised how many happy dynos are out there.

romandian

730 rwhp on the lpe pump and bap? interesting what inj. duty are you seeing.

C5 Pete

This too... OEM cranks seem to live well at 800, but over spinning a big blower like the YSi will require a lot of belt tension and that can bend the OEM crank in short time.

tommypenguin

Thanks for all the feedback guys, keep it coming. Sounds like to be safe I should go with a forged crank. Wish I would have forged the rotating assembly last year when I rebuilt my current motor but the day I was pulling the motor out of the car I found out I was having a baby, that put the rotating assembly on hold. At the time I didn't think I would want any more power than I had, famous last words...

IIRC it was 91% the last time I took a log. Below is a link to my results thread where I gave all the details on the dyno.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...l-results.html

stevieturbo

You want a reliable, unstressed, on E85...although you do later mention pump fuel etc etc etc.

And at high altitude.

...427, 10 rib YSi...and then you can play with any other details after that

Allow the motor itself to do a lot of the work then the blower can assist.

or on a more modest budget, strengthen your own block ( or more correctly internals ), throw on the YSi and spin it hard. And whatever it makes it makes. Dont worry about an actual goal.

neverstop

good advice imo. I was originally building my car for >1k whp but at 900/860 where it is now the only time it doesn't feel absurd is at 1/2 mile airtrip events and I'm very happy with it. I am sure eventually I'll want more power but 850-900whp seems to be the sweet spot for this platform. after that it seems like starts to get a lot more complicated and expensive for the incremental power.

romandian

somehow i dont get it. im making around 500rwhp (maybe less) on a stock 99 c5 at 15 psi. duty is 90% on the deka 60s and lingenfelter pump cant keep up. i see how the bap helps the pump but where is my fuel going? 11.4 afr.

stevieturbo

Flow/return system, or dead end ?

What rail pressure ? static or boost referenced ?

romandian

static. pressure starts a 4 bars and drops to around 3.5 on top. so i loose 6.5%. op is making +50% power. not sure how that possible.

stevieturbo

Not all dynos read the same.

Not all engines consume the fuel as efficiently as others.

Just because two engines see 15psi...doesnt mean they'll make the same power. Tuning could be vastly different, nevermind the rest of the parts. A few degrees of timing can make the world of difference

As you're boosted, you're losing that 0.5bar plus whatever boost pressure you're using.. Non boost references fuel systems are always at a large disadvantage as far as helping the injectors work for you.

So if you're 15psi boost, then you've only 36psi of pressure to actually inject fuel. That's a huge loss over your 58psi base you tried to start from.

romandian

i see what your saying, but:
my 3.5 - 1 bar = 2.5 bar
his 4 (maybe?) - 0.6 bar = 3.2 bar

that would still be only 13% difference in flow.

but i guess im hijacking the thread.

stevieturbo

You start at 4 bar....and dropping to 2.5

His is perhaps 4 bar boost referenced...so 4 bar always available to inject fuel ? He doesnt mention. If so that's around 30-40% more fuel.

And as said, dynos read different. Dynojet seem to read quite high compared to others so I really wouldnt get too worked up on numbers, even more so when half way across the world. You never know what the same car might do on a dyno local to you.

Or your car could simply have problems that need resolved. There are cars I know of in the UK that would have claimed big numbers etc....even shown some dyno graphs with good numbers. Yet but them on the blacktop and they're more than a little disappointing.

Dont get too fixated with numbers. Build it to go fast, not be a dyno queen.

tommypenguin

Step 1 is under way. I picked up my buddies magnafluxed Lq4 block. Blackmachdown has swayed my opinion from going with a 370 to a 408 to get the added torque off the line from the extra cubes. Looking at going with a rotating assembly from Texas speed with a tsp forged crank, tsp h beam forged rods with arp 2000 bolts and -10cc wiseco dished pistons.

​​​​​​Where I'm struggling with is heads and cam. I have my 243 heads that are ported, have psi max life endurance Springs. I have my bone stock 317 heads sitting in the garage. Which set of heads should I use? If I run meth and e85 I can get away with higher compression. My current cam is 220/220 with. 581/. 581 lift. I know that is too small. What cam should I go with? The cam will drive what springs to look at. If I go with a cam who's lift is under .600 was going to go with pac 1218x. Thanks guys.