Boost & Timing Cover Seal
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Boost & Timing Cover Seal
Hello,
I need to replace my timing cover seal. I only want to do the job once and plan to use a Felpro vs OEM. My main concern is why it happened in the first place. I understand it can not be aligned correctly, which can cause the problem, so I will make sure this is not the issue. However if alighted correctly, does boost (stock block A&A system 9-10psi) possibly play a role in this problem or is it unrelated?
I have read about crank case pressure being to high as a problem, but am unsure if a timing cover seal/gasket issue is related.
Thank you!
I need to replace my timing cover seal. I only want to do the job once and plan to use a Felpro vs OEM. My main concern is why it happened in the first place. I understand it can not be aligned correctly, which can cause the problem, so I will make sure this is not the issue. However if alighted correctly, does boost (stock block A&A system 9-10psi) possibly play a role in this problem or is it unrelated?
I have read about crank case pressure being to high as a problem, but am unsure if a timing cover seal/gasket issue is related.
Thank you!
#5
Safety Car
Yes, too much crankcase pressure under boost from blowby can blow out seals, usually the font or rear mains. Look into a catch can or a setup a way to allow better crankcase ventilation under boost.
#6
Supporting Vendor
happy to help if you need an honest review of the crankcase ventilation system.
#8
Drifting
Buy a oil cap breather like I did, you need to vent that crankcase pressure under boost. I used a breather cap. helps relieve the pressure. Also make sure you have a check valve between your oil seperator or catchcan between the intake.
http://www.metcomotorsports.com/prod...p?prod=MBR0003
http://www.metcomotorsports.com/prod...p?prod=MBR0003
#9
Supporting Vendor
Buy a oil cap breather like I did, you need to vent that crankcase pressure under boost. I used a breather cap. helps relieve the pressure. Also make sure you have a check valve between your oil seperator or catchcan between the intake.
http://www.metcomotorsports.com/prod...p?prod=MBR0003
http://www.metcomotorsports.com/prod...p?prod=MBR0003
'Open' breathers like this will allow un-metered air into the crankcase, and require the tune be corrected in most MAF tuned configurations.
While doing a great job at stabilizing pressure, due to the lack of any baffling internally they will also wet with oil and eventually leak oil external to the engine bay.
I have a one-way pressure release breather that does not allow un-metered air. It also has internal baffling and is one of the higher flowing units available in general. (I rate at 1000hp)
https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...ll-an-adapters
This same design is built into the top of my catch cans, so you get the pressure control, and the oil control, in one unit, without upsetting the PCV system. On my PCV can (standard in the 'WILD' kits), there is no need for a boost protecting check valve. Everything is built-in and tested over 100psi.
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3470# Stock bottom end and heads Corvette Stock Bottom End Record Holder
#10
Tech Contributor
If you're blowing out the front seal, I would expect that to not be a result of excess crankcase pressure. Why? When you accelerate, the oil runs toward the rear of the engine and your problem (if it exists) will be greatest when in boost.
As far as alignment goes, unless the SAC city tool is able to fully zero out any space between that crank and the hard edge of the seal, there is no way to properly align it without dropping the oil pan. You only need to lower the pan enough to where it places no upward pressure upon the timing cover. You can set the new cover on the engine with loose bolts, install your balancer so that it naturally centers the cover. Verify bottom side alignment, along the bottom of the block, where the cover meets the block so that both sides are even and flat. If it's not, it will require a rotational adjustment of the cover. Once it's proper in every way, begin to tighten all the bolts hand tight and then to 18ft lbs. Clean the bottom surface of the cover with lacquer thinner or acetone and then apply some RTV along the joint between the cover and block and tighten all of those bolts to 18ft lbs except for the two skinny, long rears which get torqued to 106in lbs.
As far as alignment goes, unless the SAC city tool is able to fully zero out any space between that crank and the hard edge of the seal, there is no way to properly align it without dropping the oil pan. You only need to lower the pan enough to where it places no upward pressure upon the timing cover. You can set the new cover on the engine with loose bolts, install your balancer so that it naturally centers the cover. Verify bottom side alignment, along the bottom of the block, where the cover meets the block so that both sides are even and flat. If it's not, it will require a rotational adjustment of the cover. Once it's proper in every way, begin to tighten all the bolts hand tight and then to 18ft lbs. Clean the bottom surface of the cover with lacquer thinner or acetone and then apply some RTV along the joint between the cover and block and tighten all of those bolts to 18ft lbs except for the two skinny, long rears which get torqued to 106in lbs.
#11
Drifting
'Open' breathers like this will allow un-metered air into the crankcase, and require the tune be corrected in most MAF tuned configurations.
While doing a great job at stabilizing pressure, due to the lack of any baffling internally they will also wet with oil and eventually leak oil external to the engine bay.
I have a one-way pressure release breather that does not allow un-metered air. It also has internal baffling and is one of the higher flowing units available in general. (I rate at 1000hp)
https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...ll-an-adapters
This same design is built into the top of my catch cans, so you get the pressure control, and the oil control, in one unit, without upsetting the PCV system. On my PCV can (standard in the 'WILD' kits), there is no need for a boost protecting check valve. Everything is built-in and tested over 100psi.
While doing a great job at stabilizing pressure, due to the lack of any baffling internally they will also wet with oil and eventually leak oil external to the engine bay.
I have a one-way pressure release breather that does not allow un-metered air. It also has internal baffling and is one of the higher flowing units available in general. (I rate at 1000hp)
https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...ll-an-adapters
This same design is built into the top of my catch cans, so you get the pressure control, and the oil control, in one unit, without upsetting the PCV system. On my PCV can (standard in the 'WILD' kits), there is no need for a boost protecting check valve. Everything is built-in and tested over 100psi.
#12
Supporting Vendor
got ya so it would build up and leak down if you were not continually washing the build up away
#13
Drifting
It's possible it could, but I don't mind cleaning it, it gives me something to do. It serves it purpose for my setup. For a turbo setup like the one you have pictured above, I can see where it could cause a problem with that exhaust setup could spill over and catch fire.
Last edited by corvet786c; 06-24-2017 at 01:29 PM.
#14
Team Owner
If your SC set up is correct with the appropriate check valves in place, there shouldn't be that much pressure in the crankcase, pressure comes from blow-by which indicates an issue in the engine. Breathers or catch cans do not effect the tune at all.
#15
Supporting Vendor
Are you sure about that? There is nothing that meters outside air or air in the crank case for that matter. The MAF measures air going into the intake, which is complete and separate systems in an engine with no issues.
If your SC set up is correct with the appropriate check valves in place, there shouldn't be that much pressure in the crankcase, pressure comes from blow-by which indicates an issue in the engine. Breathers or catch cans do not effect the tune at all.
If your SC set up is correct with the appropriate check valves in place, there shouldn't be that much pressure in the crankcase, pressure comes from blow-by which indicates an issue in the engine. Breathers or catch cans do not effect the tune at all.
all pcv air on all oem MAF systems is measured first by the MAF sensor.
if you do not do this you must account for the PCV air supply manually in the re-tune.
crankcase flow under load is the result of ring leakages, which i find among other things proportionate to output. (more air going in, so more air coming out. more air coming out at a given leakage % = more crankcase flow). eventually the power level gm planned for with the stock pcv plumbing is no longer adequate. this would show itself in the form of crankcase pressure and or clean side oil consumption