Oil Coming Out Of BOV: Crankcase venting...need help
#1
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Oil Coming Out Of BOV: Crankcase venting...need help
So this is how my setup is on my A@A v3si supercharger. I was trying to avoid tapping the oil cap or venting to inside the engine bay. Iam getting oil coming out of the blow off valve under hard pulls. Someone please educate me...why is oil being pushed through the air charge hoses and out of the Blow Off Valve? I am assuming the oil is not venting properly and that the oil is finding the easiest way out? Can someone check and provide any recommendations. Thanks.
The Routing is:
Line from Drivers Side Valve Cover to PCV Valve to Check Valve to Upper Port on Catch Can.
Line from Intake Manifold to Lower Port on Catch Can.
Line from Passenger Side Valve Cover Venting to Airbox and Filter of Supercharger.
The Routing is:
Line from Drivers Side Valve Cover to PCV Valve to Check Valve to Upper Port on Catch Can.
Line from Intake Manifold to Lower Port on Catch Can.
Line from Passenger Side Valve Cover Venting to Airbox and Filter of Supercharger.
Last edited by XtremeVette; 06-28-2017 at 10:10 AM.
#2
Melting Slicks
Your lines are all screwed up. You should have a line going from the valley cover to the catch can inlet(you can tee your passenger valve cover line into this one), one line(with PCV valve) from catch can to intake manifold barb. Cap off your throttle body port. Driver side cover line goes to airbox.
See MightyMouse Diagram
See MightyMouse Diagram
Last edited by Turpid porpoise; 06-28-2017 at 09:53 AM.
#3
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Your lines are all screwed up. You should have a line going from the valley cover to the catch can inlet(you can tee your passenger valve cover line into this one), one line(with PCV valve) from catch can to intake manifold barb. Cap off your throttle body port. Driver side cover line goes to airbox.
See MightyMouse Diagram
See MightyMouse Diagram
So I just need to verify with you.
1.) Where is the barb from the valley cover I need to connect to? Looks like from the diagram its located on the passenger side near the intake manifold down low directly behind the throttle body? You're saying run a line from there and "T" split that to the passenger side Valve Cover and then run that to the lower port on the Catch Can?
2.) Run a line from the Catch Can Top Port that has my PCV valve and check Valve to the intake manifold.
3.) Drivers side line that runs from the Valve Cover up close to the firewall behind the engine and around to the passenger side needs to be extended and run down to the airbox.
4.) Leave the throttle body capped off. (this is how I have it now).
and just to clarify...my catch can is a CCA Sealed Catch Can...its not vented like the Mighty Mouse...not sure if that matters.
Last edited by XtremeVette; 06-28-2017 at 10:23 AM.
#4
Melting Slicks
I forgot to ask if you have the LS1 or LS6 style valley cover. The LS1 style does not have the barb there and you will have to run the valley cover hose from the passenger side valve cover instead.
Last edited by Turpid porpoise; 06-28-2017 at 10:59 AM.
#5
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Not sure. It's a 2002 so I have the LS6 intake. Don't know about what valley cover I have. Can you tell from the pics?
#6
Melting Slicks
I would also recommend putting a second catch can in the line running to your airbox to prevent oil from being pulled into your blower and sprayed throughout your charge piping.
Last edited by Turpid porpoise; 06-28-2017 at 11:01 AM.
#7
getting your lines fixed is key but mighty mouse makes a vented pcv style filter that just screws in on your oil filler but i believe stays sealed when part throttle and then opens up when crank case has positive pressure which is a great solution
#9
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Not an option...I don't want to vent to under the hood. I have too much custom painted items and a custom painted hood liner. I don't want oil or even vapor mist accumulating on everything.
Last edited by XtremeVette; 06-28-2017 at 02:38 PM.
#10
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So after reviewing...I believe my setup looks identical to what MM has on their website link with the exception of that they "T" off the drivers side valve cover line and that also has the valley line to it as well that flows to the Catch Can. I have to go home and double check to make sure I have that barb down there on the valley cover. I also don't know about catch cans...what is the "inlet" and what is the "outlet". My CCA can I honestly don't know and Iam just going on the way it was hooked up by the installer to be correct. I am still puzzled as to why I am getting oil shooting out of the Blow Off Valve though and spraying all over the inner vender wheel well area where the BOV is located. Is this solely because my catch can is not filtered like the MM or because Iam not "T"ing into the valley cover? Iam hoping Dave chimes in.
#11
Supporting Vendor
Got your pm and email call for help!
First:
You can and should only use my diagrams with my cans. The routing are as specific as the can builds are, please please do not mix and match.
Only follow your can manufacturers directions; If they do not have directions then honestly you may want to switch brands.
That being said:
Relative to what i do, the breather on the can is on the clean side of the can. If you were to get oil out of the breather on my can it would either simply be full or you have an extreme amount of blowby (over 1500hp worth) that needs special consideration.
For those that simply do not want any air release to the engine bay, I have a 'recirculation top' that allows this discharge air to be routed to the destination of your choice
See it in use here->
Relative to your situation:
You have significantly increased the output of the engine, and therefore the crankcase airflow; But unlike fuel system, exhaust, and other supporting mods, you have made no changes to allow increase crankcase airflow. You are asking the stock system to now handle possibly twice as much airflow, and because of that you are having problems.
Oil is coming out of the passenger valve cover because that is the only blowby vent on the engine in stock layout. When the air speed picks up relative to output, it also 'picks up' oil. This is called 'clean side contamination'.
While others would have you add another can or separator to try to catch this oil, you are only further increasing crankcase pressure by adding restriction to the only vent, and are working your way toward a seal failure or worse.
There is no way around this unless you add to the ventilation capacity of the system, and trust me a lot of ways you can try and fail. I have seen it.
But this is what you CAN do with my PCV can, or as it comes within the 'WILD' systems. We give the system the ability to exhale as needed (cleanly), and equalize any crankcase pressure at the source. This keeps it from backing up and causing problems on the clean side as well. We also of course catch the PCV oil, and have built in boost protection.
All this means it can easily improve on augmented stock systems and dual can systems in one swoop.
Here is another video with a direct comparison to another method of pressure control.
Happy to discuss further as needed.
First:
You can and should only use my diagrams with my cans. The routing are as specific as the can builds are, please please do not mix and match.
Only follow your can manufacturers directions; If they do not have directions then honestly you may want to switch brands.
That being said:
Relative to what i do, the breather on the can is on the clean side of the can. If you were to get oil out of the breather on my can it would either simply be full or you have an extreme amount of blowby (over 1500hp worth) that needs special consideration.
For those that simply do not want any air release to the engine bay, I have a 'recirculation top' that allows this discharge air to be routed to the destination of your choice
See it in use here->
Relative to your situation:
You have significantly increased the output of the engine, and therefore the crankcase airflow; But unlike fuel system, exhaust, and other supporting mods, you have made no changes to allow increase crankcase airflow. You are asking the stock system to now handle possibly twice as much airflow, and because of that you are having problems.
Oil is coming out of the passenger valve cover because that is the only blowby vent on the engine in stock layout. When the air speed picks up relative to output, it also 'picks up' oil. This is called 'clean side contamination'.
While others would have you add another can or separator to try to catch this oil, you are only further increasing crankcase pressure by adding restriction to the only vent, and are working your way toward a seal failure or worse.
There is no way around this unless you add to the ventilation capacity of the system, and trust me a lot of ways you can try and fail. I have seen it.
But this is what you CAN do with my PCV can, or as it comes within the 'WILD' systems. We give the system the ability to exhale as needed (cleanly), and equalize any crankcase pressure at the source. This keeps it from backing up and causing problems on the clean side as well. We also of course catch the PCV oil, and have built in boost protection.
All this means it can easily improve on augmented stock systems and dual can systems in one swoop.
Here is another video with a direct comparison to another method of pressure control.
Happy to discuss further as needed.
__________________
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#12
+1 for MM catch cans. I push 10 psi on my centri and switched to a mm can shortly after the car was done. I noticed you didn't run the oil cap line to the air filter like a&a recommends. Mine was like that but I didn't want the blower to suck in oil or fumes.
#13
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Got your pm and email call for help!
First:
You can and should only use my diagrams with my cans. The routing are as specific as the can builds are, please please do not mix and match.
Only follow your can manufacturers directions; If they do not have directions then honestly you may want to switch brands.
That being said:
Relative to what i do, the breather on the can is on the clean side of the can. If you were to get oil out of the breather on my can it would either simply be full or you have an extreme amount of blowby (over 1500hp worth) that needs special consideration.
For those that simply do not want any air release to the engine bay, I have a 'recirculation top' that allows this discharge air to be routed to the destination of your choice
See it in use here->
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PA7ScnQxSbg
Relative to your situation:
You have significantly increased the output of the engine, and therefore the crankcase airflow; But unlike fuel system, exhaust, and other supporting mods, you have made no changes to allow increase crankcase airflow. You are asking the stock system to now handle possibly twice as much airflow, and because of that you are having problems.
Oil is coming out of the passenger valve cover because that is the only blowby vent on the engine in stock layout. When the air speed picks up relative to output, it also 'picks up' oil. This is called 'clean side contamination'.
While others would have you add another can or separator to try to catch this oil, you are only further increasing crankcase pressure by adding restriction to the only vent, and are working your way toward a seal failure or worse.
There is no way around this unless you add to the ventilation capacity of the system, and trust me a lot of ways you can try and fail. I have seen it.
But this is what you CAN do with my PCV can, or as it comes within the 'WILD' systems. We give the system the ability to exhale as needed (cleanly), and equalize any crankcase pressure at the source. This keeps it from backing up and causing problems on the clean side as well. We also of course catch the PCV oil, and have built in boost protection.
All this means it can easily improve on augmented stock systems and dual can systems in one swoop.
Here is another video with a direct comparison to another method of pressure control.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jl70sRRpibk
Happy to discuss further as needed.
First:
You can and should only use my diagrams with my cans. The routing are as specific as the can builds are, please please do not mix and match.
Only follow your can manufacturers directions; If they do not have directions then honestly you may want to switch brands.
That being said:
Relative to what i do, the breather on the can is on the clean side of the can. If you were to get oil out of the breather on my can it would either simply be full or you have an extreme amount of blowby (over 1500hp worth) that needs special consideration.
For those that simply do not want any air release to the engine bay, I have a 'recirculation top' that allows this discharge air to be routed to the destination of your choice
See it in use here->
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PA7ScnQxSbg
Relative to your situation:
You have significantly increased the output of the engine, and therefore the crankcase airflow; But unlike fuel system, exhaust, and other supporting mods, you have made no changes to allow increase crankcase airflow. You are asking the stock system to now handle possibly twice as much airflow, and because of that you are having problems.
Oil is coming out of the passenger valve cover because that is the only blowby vent on the engine in stock layout. When the air speed picks up relative to output, it also 'picks up' oil. This is called 'clean side contamination'.
While others would have you add another can or separator to try to catch this oil, you are only further increasing crankcase pressure by adding restriction to the only vent, and are working your way toward a seal failure or worse.
There is no way around this unless you add to the ventilation capacity of the system, and trust me a lot of ways you can try and fail. I have seen it.
But this is what you CAN do with my PCV can, or as it comes within the 'WILD' systems. We give the system the ability to exhale as needed (cleanly), and equalize any crankcase pressure at the source. This keeps it from backing up and causing problems on the clean side as well. We also of course catch the PCV oil, and have built in boost protection.
All this means it can easily improve on augmented stock systems and dual can systems in one swoop.
Here is another video with a direct comparison to another method of pressure control.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jl70sRRpibk
Happy to discuss further as needed.
#14
Supporting Vendor
Thanks Dave. Can you elaborate more on why Iam getting oil shooting out of the Blow Off Valve though? Am I correct in assuming the oil is basically coming out of everywhere on the engine from the intake manifold all the way to the pipes from the supercharger and to the intercooler?
sorry just saw this. in stock form the crank vent (the only crank vent when in a boosted app like this) is the the valve cover line to the s/c inlet.
so oil is blowing out of that with blowby and running oil all through your s/c system. very common.
some will have you add a second catch can here or a clean side separator here. these may catch some of the outbound oil but as a side effect their internal restrictions will further increase crankcase pressure, potentially to a dangerous level if not there already from increased hp.
that is why you need a catch can that eliminates crankcase pressure, so your clean side stays 'clean' and in some configurations you can divorce these two points completely. or stop outbound flow ability here, since the properly selected can would not require this vent.
#15
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sorry just saw this. in stock form the crank vent (the only crank vent when in a boosted app like this) is the the valve cover line to the s/c inlet.
so oil is blowing out of that with blowby and running oil all through your s/c system. very common.
some will have you add a second catch can here or a clean side separator here. these may catch some of the outbound oil but as a side effect their internal restrictions will further increase crankcase pressure, potentially to a dangerous level if not there already from increased hp.
that is why you need a catch can that eliminates crankcase pressure, so your clean side stays 'clean' and in some configurations you can divorce these two points completely. or stop outbound flow ability here, since the properly selected can would not require this vent.
so oil is blowing out of that with blowby and running oil all through your s/c system. very common.
some will have you add a second catch can here or a clean side separator here. these may catch some of the outbound oil but as a side effect their internal restrictions will further increase crankcase pressure, potentially to a dangerous level if not there already from increased hp.
that is why you need a catch can that eliminates crankcase pressure, so your clean side stays 'clean' and in some configurations you can divorce these two points completely. or stop outbound flow ability here, since the properly selected can would not require this vent.
#16
Supporting Vendor
if you are drag racing / road driving / autocross then the standard vent top is fine, if you road race or have special fumes requirement or some other special need then possibly the recic. top is best
the catch can build in the 'mild' vs 'wild' systems are different and connect differently
the mild systems almost always connect in-line of the stock pcv system, and therefore cannot flow more than the stock pcv system. the wild systems replace the pcv system, and can flow up to 1500hp based on the line(s) size between it and the crankcase.
the catch can build in the 'mild' vs 'wild' systems are different and connect differently
the mild systems almost always connect in-line of the stock pcv system, and therefore cannot flow more than the stock pcv system. the wild systems replace the pcv system, and can flow up to 1500hp based on the line(s) size between it and the crankcase.
#17
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Hi Dave...hey question...do you have to drill the oil cap to use your MM Wild catch can? Iam seeing this new diagram on your website.
Last edited by XtremeVette; 08-07-2017 at 04:47 PM.
#18
Melting Slicks
Hi Dave...hey question...do you have to drill the oil cap to use your MM Wild catch can? Iam seeing this new diagram on your website.
Attachment 48194087
Attachment 48194087
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David@MMS (08-08-2017)
#19
Supporting Vendor
yes
https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...ll-an-adapters
if you have the type of valve covers my adapters work for then that is all you need, but there are still times when welding / drilling / tapping may be required depending on what you are working with.
https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...ll-an-adapters
if you have the type of valve covers my adapters work for then that is all you need, but there are still times when welding / drilling / tapping may be required depending on what you are working with.
#20
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yes
https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...ll-an-adapters
if you have the type of valve covers my adapters work for then that is all you need, but there are still times when welding / drilling / tapping may be required depending on what you are working with.
https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...ll-an-adapters
if you have the type of valve covers my adapters work for then that is all you need, but there are still times when welding / drilling / tapping may be required depending on what you are working with.
Thanks Dave
Jeff
Last edited by XtremeVette; 08-08-2017 at 10:07 AM.