When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I had a set of those 68/70s fail in less than 300 street miles. Precision couldn't explain it and warranty replaced them, sold them bitches. Too expensive to be unreliable.
The referenced promod pictures show a healthy angle on the turbos as mounted, however Ben has mounted his level to ground. The car will absolutely be street driven.
I had a set of those 68/70s fail in less than 300 street miles. Precision couldn't explain it and warranty replaced them, sold them bitches. Too expensive to be unreliable.
I like where this build is going though.
If 2 on the same car failed, it would be incredibly odd for it to be a turbo problem.
One maybe..but both ? it almost has to be related to the install.
I'd like a pair on my own...but probably dont need that much turbo lol The cheap BW's are hard to beat for value for money and performance.
If 2 on the same car failed, it would be incredibly odd for it to be a turbo problem.
One maybe..but both ? it almost has to be related to the install.
I'd like a pair on my own...but probably dont need that much turbo lol The cheap BW's are hard to beat for value for money and performance.
It was not a install, oil feed, or drain issue.. The car ran great on the dyno and then they just ate themselves idling in the driveway one day. Precison could not explain it so they replaced them. Who knows what caused it, but that made us gun shy so I sold them and replaced them with much cheaper journal bearing comp 68/71's
The referenced promod pictures show a healthy angle on the turbos as mounted, however Ben has mounted his level to ground. The car will absolutely be street driven.
mounting the turbos like that seems to be ok huron is angling them up
but I'm very curious as I've always thought they should be "level" with the flange paralell to the ground
is that is an invalid assumption and can the turbos be mounted at any angle without causing problems?
mounting the turbos like that seems to be ok huron is angling them up
but I'm very curious as I've always thought they should be "level" with the flange paralell to the ground
is that is an invalid assumption and can the turbos be mounted at any angle without causing problems?
Lol, I designed the prototype for Huron. I'm the JDS mentioned on their site. They are set just shy of 15deg tilt for clearance of turbo and downpipe to avoid cutting frame. The turbos on my personal car are at the same angle, just have 3.5" downpipes and exhaust. No issues. Manufacturers recommend no more than 15deg tilt or it will can cause oil problems. Obviously ideal is parallel to ground, but that's not always possible. For Ben's setup it is in this thread, so no reason not to.
Lol, I designed the prototype for Huron. I'm the JDS mentioned on their site. They are set just shy of 15deg tilt for clearance of turbo and downpipe to avoid cutting frame. The turbos on my personal car are at the same angle, just have 3.5" downpipes and exhaust. No issues. Manufacturers recommend no more than 15deg tilt or it will can cause oil problems. Obviously ideal is parallel to ground, but that's not always possible. For Ben's setup it is in this thread, so no reason not to.
Great work JDS. I'm staying tune for this one. He fabbed up my current twin turbo kit and will be for sale pretty soon on here as I am going a different route that he designed as soon as I get my funds ready (Huron).
But this has really gauged my interest wonder if I should hold off.
There has been some good discussion in here. After my last post, I fully intended to "catch up" the build thread with what has been accomplished through the summer. I went on a one week vacation with the family and flew home to Hurricane Harvey in the Gulf of Mexico. I think that ate up another week, but I did do a little fabbing during the storm. I then got sent out of town for another week to help a sister facility within the company that got flooded. So all in all, there's been a 3 week break but that's life and there isn't a schedule for this build. I would like to see it running by Thanksgiving but we'll see.
I've got all the materials needed for the turbo kit but there is still some fabrication and welding left to go. I will say the chosen turbo location and decision to abandon the exhaust has made this build very easy. The engine block showed up from Race Engine Development last month but still needs some machining, parts, and assembly.
A joint effort between TopSpeed Motorsports and Extreme Turbo Systems produced a pair of PTE-6870 turbos with a ported S cover and 0.96 A/R T4 turbine housing.
Next, AutoMods, LLC provided the Precision BOVs and wastegates.
My friend Jon has been very instrumental in this build. I'm on my 1st turbo kit and 2nd bottle of argon. I've lost track of how many bottles he has been through and his welding capabilities are impressive. He has given me a lot of tips and advice throughout this project. I went through his company JS Fabrications to order a "1500 HP" intercooler that he designed and it was fabricated by Bell Intercoolers.
Here's a quick shot right after it showed up and before mounting it to the car. The fin density on the core is insane.
I was also able to source a "starter kit" consisting of misc aluminum and stainless bends, couplers, and clamps. This would prove to come in handy as the project progressed.
I wanted to hard mount the turbos to the frame and getting the location right was going to be key to the success of the kit.
Constraints:
They had to be tucked in tight to give room for the 3.5" downpipe.
They had to be up high enough to allow for a gravity oil drain.
A filter was desired for street driving and the inlet is 4".
The inner fender apron needed to remain intact to protect everything from dirt and water.
The car is low, so ground clearance is important.
Unless necessary, cutting into the frame and firewall needed to be avoided.
In short, move what needed to be moved to get a good location and then work out routing the piping and mounting all other items afterwards.
I started with the driver side in early July knowing that it would be tight with the clutch master cylinder and brake booster on that side. The external fuel lines, boost control solenoids and meth pump were removed to make room for the turbo. These items would have to find another home later.
Now it was time for the passenger side. In the picture below, the ECM has been removed as well as the vacuum canister, the battery mount has been deleted and the 45 degree brace cut out. Also the rubber firewall drain or "udder" has been removed. All of this will be addressed later after the turbo and piping is in place. The battery will go to the rear, the vacuum canister will be relocated and the ECM will move to the engine compartment. The plastic hasn't been trimmed yet in this photo.
Up next was one of the most exciting parts of the build so far and I'm glad that I tackled it early on. I've been wanting to do something like this for a long time and feel like it will look right at home on a C5.
For whatever reason, I started with the passenger side. It's amazing how simple the parts are for fabricating the two downpipes.
3.5" 304 SS Tubing - A single 180 degree bend and two 90 degree bends
08-25-2017, 10:52 PM
