TastyBacon

Nice to see some love for the 97-98 rails, since I'm planning on using them on my car
You can get adjustable regulators sans vette tax--they are the same style of Bosch regulator used in many German cars: http://www.usrallyteam.com/index.php...roducts_id=673
I don't know if that specific one fits the 97-98 rails, but I plan on testing it eventually. It looks like it should fit.

jimbos'ss

I switched out the regular 450 and swapped in the e85 pump. I also run ID1000 injectors now. I do like those adjustable FPR's though. Id like to set my pressure right at 58psi to better correspond with what the OS expects to see.

I wish they published dimensional specs on those! I have a spare stock regulator I could measure.

DKS2K

My 97 was having fuel pressure after installing the 340 stealth in the stock canister.. but after cutting the bottom of the canister and have the sock hang out of the bottom. No more fuel pressure problem. I also change out to a Walbro 450 in the stock canister just with the bottom cut open.

HardcoreABN

lemme see if I can find my pump. I have a 450 in a 00 bucket - fit with a little modification.

From my research, 2x 450s will not support 1000rwhp on e85

I am going 450 intank for normal driving and a boost activated magnafuel 4303 or the new Aeromotive brushless Eliminator external.

mykream

Guys, figured I would revive this thread a bit. I have yet to go through with a larger pump install as I tend to think about things for way too long before I actually do it (not a bad thing I suppose )

Here is my quick thread from a little over a year ago and my last post in the thread may help with the bucket running dry concern.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ank-setup.html

Utilizing the radium jet pump, it can be plumbed one of two ways,

• Can feed the top port from the return line of a regulator
• Or feed it from a tee in the feed line off the pump pressure out.

Could run the suction side of the jet pump from the "passive" side of the tank ( hose out to the bottom of the tank).

Now, I am sure you could easily just do as others have said, eliminate the bucket completely, weld a stainless rod to the hat and mount the pump backwards so the filter sock is towards the rear of the tank so fuel will always go back to it under acceleration.

But for the guys that have kept their bucket with a 340+ pump, well then this may be the way to go.

romandian

while everybody is here:

on a 99, does the return from the regulator dump into the bucket? and could an evaporation line be used for return?

Turpid porpoise

Yes the return dumps into the bucket and I don't know about the evap line. I don't know if the evap lines and tank fittings have a check valve or something in there to keep anything unwanted from entering the tanks.

TastyBacon

The evap line is only 1/4" diameter, probably wouldn't work well as a return.

Turpid porpoise

I thought it was 5/16" but you maybe right. Either way it's not enough.

romandian

would you guys know where it enters the tank (passenger side i assume)? so far i couldnt locate it, there is some weird stuff behind the rear wheel. maybe at least the fitting could be used.

Turpid porpoise

What year is your car? I've had fuel tanks from a '99 and fuel tanks from an '01 and the all evap ports were not in the same locations.

romandian

its 1999.

Turpid porpoise

I have the 1999 fuel tanks sitting empty in my shed, I'll snap some pics for you tonight.

SmoothFRC

A bit of an update to this thread...

So - Houston I have a problem.... The system collectively works just fine, no issues with pressure, holds strong and is quiet!

The problem - randomly the pump will not come on. I was fighting this a bit over the summer and thought maybe something related to the heat - if I just 'Tap' the fuel tank, the pump comes on - which led me to believe I had a faulty pump with a flat spot. Replaced the pump (they are cheap enough) and the issue just reared it's head again this morning....

The relay is clicking, there is power to the pump itself, it's just not turning on unless I tap it.... Now with this happening to two pumps, I'm wondering if the pump is being overheated in the canister....

Any thoughts? my next step will be to ditch the canister - just functionally appears to be working just fine (when it powers on)...

mykream

You have adequate wiring for the pump I assume?

Turpid porpoise

^ That was my first thought. The pins in the OEM bulkhead are rated for very low current, look into upgrading that bulkhead with the one Racetronix offers and the internal wiring with proper fuel submersible wiring and I bet your problem goes away.

DKS2K

Sound like my problem I had too. I just disconnected the connector for the fuel pump and clean the pins. Mine was all corroded up.

mykream

I find intermittent issues are most always electrical, not mechanical

SmoothFRC

Right - I looked at all of this over the summer. Regarding the internal wires, I had the LPE 255 drop in prior, so I re-used the internal pump wiring from that - which is upgraded from the stock internal wiring. I also put larger gauge wiring into the stock pigtail for the pump with new connectors from Napa, with an additional grounding strap from the bulkhead to the frame.

I can confirm there is 12v at the physical pigtail going into the bulkhead. As I mentioned, once the pump is running, it runs great... just not sure why it has these intermittent 'dead' spots.

SmoothFRC