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I'll rephrase... I had two wideband sensors, attached to an AEM UEGO gauge that both failed. The sensors were mounted to a Kooks X-Pipe attached to Kooks long tube headers. I'm not bashing AEM or promoting any other brand. I'm sharing my experience just as you have.
I understand that the sensors are all essentially the same until you start looking at the more expensive wideband controllers but if Innovates controller can affect the lifespan of the sensor than it's not beyond belief to consider that AEM's controller could do something similar.
This was all on AEM's old UEGO, not the new X series.
You probably killed them with lead or bad gas. Two in a row is not the sensor. What kills one wideband would kill any other, so you toasted 2x widebands (generic).
You probably killed them with lead or bad gas. Two in a row is not the sensor. What kills one wideband would kill any other, so you toasted 2x widebands (generic).
It's not as if they failed back to back. They both had a 6-8 month lifespan before failing. I used the Zeitronix with the same exact setup without issue.
It's not as if they failed back to back. They both had a 6-8 month lifespan before failing. I used the Zeitronix with the same exact setup without issue.
Think of what you are saying. All widebands work using the similar priciple, they contain similar parts. If one "brand" fails it is a coincidence. There are no mass reports of sensor failures on the internet restricted to one type of wideband.
Think of what you are saying. All widebands work using the similar priciple, they contain similar parts. If one "brand" fails it is a coincidence. There are no mass reports of sensor failures on the internet restricted to one type of wideband.
I have no horse in this race and Im not here to argue. Just posting my experience.
Last edited by Turpid porpoise; 02-22-2018 at 04:35 PM.
It's worth mentioning that o2 sensors shouldn't be mounted horizontally, which is exactly how my Kooks 2" header collector bung on the passenger side is. Thanks Kooks, but not a big deal since there are other bungs after the collector. Also letting the sensor heat up and then starting the car has it's own risks. Condensation in the exhaust hitting a hot sensor on startup can kill a sensor, as well.
It's worth mentioning that o2 sensors shouldn't be mounted horizontally, which is exactly how my Kooks 2" header collector bung on the passenger side is. Thanks Kooks, but not a big deal since there are other bungs after the collector. Also letting the sensor heat up and then starting the car has it's own risks. Condensation in the exhaust hitting a hot sensor on startup can kill a sensor, as well.
yes, thanks,
you HAVE to read the instructions that come with them
Figure most would know this but good to double-say
The guys at Innovate hooked me up. This is copied and pasted from my previous post:
Ok, so I have to tell you guys about my awesome experience. The guys at Innovate are solid.
I called them up and explained the issue I was having with my PSN-1. It was out of warranty but I still wanted to send it in and pay to have it fixed. Whatever it cost, I didn't care at this point. I need my PSN-1 working.
Just now, I received a brand new one in the mail. New gauge, new cable, new O2 sensor, everything. Zero charge. If that's not good customer service, I don't know what is.
I didn't tell them this but I have been a customer of theirs for about 15 years now. I had the original white LM-1 back in the day. They were great about helping me wire it in to work with my Accel Gen 7 DFI fuel injection that I was running back then. I'm glad this company is still around making great products.
Last edited by Millennium FRC; 03-16-2018 at 02:42 PM.
Still running Lm-1 since 1994 (the second one) plugged-in permanently through HP Tuners on my car...and no issues and totally accurate.
Christian
Originally Posted by Millennium FRC
The guys at Innovate hooked me up. This is copied and pasted from my previous post:
Ok, so I have to tell you guys about my awesome experience. The guys at Innovate are solid.
I called them up and explained the issue I was having with my PSN-1. It was out of warranty but I still wanted to send it in and pay to have it fixed. Whatever it cost, I didn't care at this point. I need my PSN-1 working.
Just now, I received a brand new one in the mail. New gauge, new cable, new O2 sensor, everything. Zero charge. If that's not good customer service, I don't know what is.
I didn't tell them this but I have been a customer of theirs for about 15 years now. I had the original white LM-1 back in the day. They were great about helping me wire it in to work with my Accel Gen 7 DFI fuel injection that I was running back then. I'm glad this company is still around making great products.
I used to use the LM-1 when tuning other peoples cars up until about 2-3 years ago and it was a handy design for that ( with the windscreen mount )
But just get fed up feeding it sensors.
Changed to Zeitronix and been using the same sensor since that. LM-1 would go through 2-3 sensors a year.
Hi Stevie,
LM-1 Installed as follow:
- Wired on Battery
- Mechman Alternator 170 amp, the engine electrical rarely sees below 14v.
- Big Three wiring kit
- All 5 OEM C5Z06 grounds doubled
Checked and compared on 4 Dynojet at the pipe, and less than 0.1 point leaner at the pipe.
Checked and compared on one Mustang Dyno (true set-up) and same...
Changed sensor rarely before three years...
My initial white LM-1 died by the power connector, plus it was old.
Sorry if that doesn't help you, just facts.
Christian
I've never personally had a wideband sensor fail, but I never run leaded fuels and I follow instructions.
I have had a controller fail. I owned an LC-1 back in the day and it had some kind of ground shield issue, there were hundreds of fried failed units. I sent it to them and they supposedly fixed it, I don't remember much after that.
I've just installed a set of AEM x-series and I have a couple of questions in regards to the threads topic.
When I turn on ignition, the heating process starts in the display. Should I wait untill it's finished or can I start up right away? I read something on a Bosch site that the preheating also can destroy the sensor...
Another thing, I've understood that the engine can't run if the sensor is not hooked up to the controller/gauge due to the heater process? So if the gauge fails, then you will destroy the sensor driving home?
I've just installed a set of AEM x-series and I have a couple of questions in regards to the threads topic.
When I turn on ignition, the heating process starts in the display. Should I wait untill it's finished or can I start up right away? I read something on a Bosch site that the preheating also can destroy the sensor...
Another thing, I've understood that the engine can't run if the sensor is not hooked up to the controller/gauge due to the heater process? So if the gauge fails, then you will destroy the sensor driving home?
Good questions
1. You can run the engine as long as the gauge/controller is wired to the sensor. Feel free to start whenever you want.
2. If you disconnect the plug that leads to the wideband sensor, I too have always read not to run the engine with it disconnected. So I always remove the sensor if I am going to run the engine without powering the sensor. Put it in an easy to reach location and carry a bung-plug. I have some plugs with 1/8" npt tapped into them for EGT and backpressure as well I carry to facilitate easy installation/removal of those devices so, multiple ways to use a wideband sensor threaded hole in the exhaust system.
This maybe kills widebands and people are just ignorant so good call on reading the instructions.
I've just installed a set of AEM x-series and I have a couple of questions in regards to the threads topic.
When I turn on ignition, the heating process starts in the display. Should I wait untill it's finished or can I start up right away? I read something on a Bosch site that the preheating also can destroy the sensor...
Another thing, I've understood that the engine can't run if the sensor is not hooked up to the controller/gauge due to the heater process? So if the gauge fails, then you will destroy the sensor driving home?
I realize this is an old question but I wanted to answer it since I found and updated this thread. You are correct. If your gauge fails, your sensor can fail as a result. The cure would be to remove the sensor from the exhaust stream and plug it with an old O2 sensor or an O2 plug. I believe the size is M18 x 1.5
02-22-2018, 11:19 AM
