Centrifugal Blower vs Turbo (Twin Turbo vs Single)
03-04-2018, 03:16 PM
#41
Melting Slicks
I would expect the Huron TT kit to be a weekend job too for a competent person ?
But a full package of fuel system mods will require more time...as will any supporting mods like clutch etc.
But it's hard to go wrong with a YSi both at lower power levels and high, it is a great head unit that will cover a lot of options
But a full package of fuel system mods will require more time...as will any supporting mods like clutch etc.
But it's hard to go wrong with a YSi both at lower power levels and high, it is a great head unit that will cover a lot of options
03-05-2018, 08:59 AM
#42
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I'm not disagreeing - I just got a Corvette a few weeks ago, and I've basically got the same questions you do.
It would be interesting to know at what power level (torque, really) the stock trans, diff, torque tube, and axles become problematic. It seems pretty straightforward to find the cost for making X horsepower, but I'm not at all clear on the cost of drivetrain upgrades to handle X.
It would be interesting to know at what power level (torque, really) the stock trans, diff, torque tube, and axles become problematic. It seems pretty straightforward to find the cost for making X horsepower, but I'm not at all clear on the cost of drivetrain upgrades to handle X.
With reliability and longevity being my main concerns on this build, Im very curious of what should go along with a 700whp turbo car in terms of what you just mentioned so I can spend as little time on the side of the road as possible
03-05-2018, 09:08 AM
#43
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Because turbo build budgets can get waaaay out of hand quickly. You were half way through and then decide you want to change this or add that, or do this differently, or fab that this other way, or something didn't quite go as planned.......and before you know it, you're ***** deep but not finished and over budget.
You don't have to spend $40k on a turbo build, but it's an automatic green light for a super nice turbo set up if you couldn't care less about dropping $40K on a build. Make sense?
On the other hand, a low hp (600'ish at the wheels) YSi build is fairly straight forward and can materialize in a 3 day weekend because it's close to being a "buy it and bolt it on" scenario.
1) Order a YSi kit and bolt it on
2) Swap out your fuel pump for a Walbro 450
3) Swap injectors to Bosch 127lb'ers
4) Fill you tank with E85
5) Flatbed your car to your tuner
YOU'RE DONE. GO HAVE FUN.
You don't have to spend $40k on a turbo build, but it's an automatic green light for a super nice turbo set up if you couldn't care less about dropping $40K on a build. Make sense?
On the other hand, a low hp (600'ish at the wheels) YSi build is fairly straight forward and can materialize in a 3 day weekend because it's close to being a "buy it and bolt it on" scenario.
1) Order a YSi kit and bolt it on
2) Swap out your fuel pump for a Walbro 450
3) Swap injectors to Bosch 127lb'ers
4) Fill you tank with E85
5) Flatbed your car to your tuner
YOU'RE DONE. GO HAVE FUN.
Another issue with getting a YSI is the conversion rates I mentioned above for bringing it to Canada. After taxes and customs I typically end up paying 1.5-2 times more then what the kit actually costs so making a custom turbo kit and only buying some parts may end up being the same price being that most of the cost would be for labour.
How much would that YSI set up you mentioned cost after install and also would I need to do any necessary clutch/transmission/rear end/etc. upgrades after that install?
03-05-2018, 04:47 PM
#45
Le Mans Master
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Couldn't agree more! I know stock clutch is typically rated at around 600 before issues start coming and the rear end may be a little less if you beat on it but I have read of a lot of guys running blowers with around 600 whp and stock clutch and rear end for a while.
With reliability and longevity being my main concerns on this build, Im very curious of what should go along with a 700whp turbo car in terms of what you just mentioned so I can spend as little time on the side of the road as possible
With reliability and longevity being my main concerns on this build, Im very curious of what should go along with a 700whp turbo car in terms of what you just mentioned so I can spend as little time on the side of the road as possible
When I built my previous Z06, I started with the drivetrain mods - DTE trans brace, upgraded stub axles, etc.
My biggest concern was the structural stability of the trans/diff connection, which has posed a breakage problem for many people if the car is driven hard. I figured I'd strengthen that area first.
My stock clutch gave up during a 4th gear pull on the highway, power just pushed thru it, still drivable but I knew it would not hold the power any longer.
I had about $16K in mods in my 2002 Z06 with a twin turbo kit, the drivetrain mods mentioned above, an RPS triple carbon clutch and full 3" exhaust, and I did all the work myself.
It adds up quick.
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c5muscle (03-06-2018)
03-06-2018, 10:21 PM
#46
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Yea I definitely agree with that. In order to run ~700whp, which components, in your experience, would without question need to be replaced?
Last edited by c5muscle; 03-06-2018 at 10:22 PM.
03-06-2018, 10:25 PM
#47
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A healthy helping of common sense when it comes to how hard you can push it and keep it together.
When I built my previous Z06, I started with the drivetrain mods - DTE trans brace, upgraded stub axles, etc.
My biggest concern was the structural stability of the trans/diff connection, which has posed a breakage problem for many people if the car is driven hard. I figured I'd strengthen that area first.
My stock clutch gave up during a 4th gear pull on the highway, power just pushed thru it, still drivable but I knew it would not hold the power any longer.
I had about $16K in mods in my 2002 Z06 with a twin turbo kit, the drivetrain mods mentioned above, an RPS triple carbon clutch and full 3" exhaust, and I did all the work myself.
It adds up quick.
When I built my previous Z06, I started with the drivetrain mods - DTE trans brace, upgraded stub axles, etc.
My biggest concern was the structural stability of the trans/diff connection, which has posed a breakage problem for many people if the car is driven hard. I figured I'd strengthen that area first.
My stock clutch gave up during a 4th gear pull on the highway, power just pushed thru it, still drivable but I knew it would not hold the power any longer.
I had about $16K in mods in my 2002 Z06 with a twin turbo kit, the drivetrain mods mentioned above, an RPS triple carbon clutch and full 3" exhaust, and I did all the work myself.
It adds up quick.
Last edited by c5muscle; 03-06-2018 at 10:28 PM.
03-07-2018, 09:55 AM
#48
Another issue with getting a YSI is the conversion rates I mentioned above for bringing it to Canada. After taxes and customs I typically end up paying 1.5-2 times more then what the kit actually costs so making a custom turbo kit and only buying some parts may end up being the same price being that most of the cost would be for labour.
How much would that YSI set up you mentioned cost after install....
How much would that YSI set up you mentioned cost after install....
No idea on install cost as that is at the discretion of your mechanic/installer.
Again, after realizing you know someone (who I believe you referred to elsewhere in the thread as a good friend) who does custom turbo kits, why is anything else even a consideration?
My philosophy on drivetrain durability improvements on a daily driver is to NOT do any. Only upgrade the clutch since a stock clutch just wont hold. I buy diffs, trannys, torque tubes, and engine parts as I come across them cheap, rebuild some stuff if it's cost effective, and keep them in the garage. Parts brake, I swap them out. Since I do literally everything myself other than machine work and tire mounting, it is much less expensive to simply swap broken parts.
03-08-2018, 01:10 AM
#49
My philosophy on drivetrain durability improvements on a daily driver is to NOT do any. Only upgrade the clutch since a stock clutch just wont hold. I buy diffs, trannys, torque tubes, and engine parts as I come across them cheap, rebuild some stuff if it's cost effective, and keep them in the garage. Parts brake, I swap them out. Since I do literally everything myself other than machine work and tire mounting, it is much less expensive to simply swap broken parts.
The OP has a budget and is trying to plan ahead. (And I'm wondering the same thing, for the same reasons.)
03-08-2018, 10:16 AM
#50
Le Mans Master
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I pounded on that car all the time, 50-140 runs were the norm.
I also drove it like a reasonable human being but I had no qualms about flatfooting the gas pedal on a regular basis.
03-08-2018, 03:42 PM
#51
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Only asking because I'm confused now....why is the Huron kit even a consideration if you have a good friend who has done custom turbo kits for the last five years?
The YSi kit from A&A is about $6,700 with the 6 rib belt set up. http://65.110.95.157/shop/product/c5-supercharger/
No idea on install cost as that is at the discretion of your mechanic/installer.
Again, after realizing you know someone (who I believe you referred to elsewhere in the thread as a good friend) who does custom turbo kits, why is anything else even a consideration?
My philosophy on drivetrain durability improvements on a daily driver is to NOT do any. Only upgrade the clutch since a stock clutch just wont hold. I buy diffs, trannys, torque tubes, and engine parts as I come across them cheap, rebuild some stuff if it's cost effective, and keep them in the garage. Parts brake, I swap them out. Since I do literally everything myself other than machine work and tire mounting, it is much less expensive to simply swap broken parts.
The YSi kit from A&A is about $6,700 with the 6 rib belt set up. http://65.110.95.157/shop/product/c5-supercharger/
No idea on install cost as that is at the discretion of your mechanic/installer.
Again, after realizing you know someone (who I believe you referred to elsewhere in the thread as a good friend) who does custom turbo kits, why is anything else even a consideration?
My philosophy on drivetrain durability improvements on a daily driver is to NOT do any. Only upgrade the clutch since a stock clutch just wont hold. I buy diffs, trannys, torque tubes, and engine parts as I come across them cheap, rebuild some stuff if it's cost effective, and keep them in the garage. Parts brake, I swap them out. Since I do literally everything myself other than machine work and tire mounting, it is much less expensive to simply swap broken parts.
when I started the thread there wasn’t too many people that were advocates of a single turbo set up so I opted to do some research on the Huron kit after it was suggested. It also costs me 1.5 - 2 times the amount for the kit to ship to where I am in Canada after the dollar exchange, customs, and shipping.
For someone that is paying to have the work done when the parts break, would you still opt for buying stock parts and beefing them up or would you suggest just buying the upgraded parts right from the start?
03-08-2018, 03:45 PM
#52
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good to know your set up was sustainable and reliable. How long were you driving like this on your setup? Forgive me if I’m wrong, but did I read it correct that you no longer have the car (or setup)?
03-11-2018, 11:39 AM
#53
Sorry for the confusion, the Huron tt kit was an option suggested by stevieturbo as a means of bypassing any customs and taxes by driving to Michigan for the install and saving some money that I would have to pay in Canada by shipping it here.
It also costs me 1.5 - 2 times the amount for the kit to ship to where I am in Canada after the dollar exchange, customs, and shipping.
I promise I'm not trying to be difficult. I'm seriously just trying to understand what this guy actually does to help determine the best/least expensive route for you.
03-11-2018, 01:15 PM
#54
Unfortunately, breaking $hit is part of going fast. There's no way around it. If this car is intended as a fun, good weather driver with some occasional road course/drag strip shenanigans, leave everything stock and swap parts as they break. If you want a legit drag strip beast that occasionally sees the street, put a powerglide and a solid 9" rear end in that thing.
03-11-2018, 01:20 PM
#55
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This still isn't making sense to me. Why would you have to ship a kit to a guy that buildscustom turbo kits? You have to make the distinction for us....does this guy "install turbo kits", as in, obtains a pre built kit like the Huron and simply installs it? Or does he legitimately "build custom turbo kits", as in, he is an experienced welder and fabricator, has all raw materials and tools on site at his facility, you tell him what turbo(s), waste gate(s), blow off valve(s), and intercooler(s) you want, you two discuss the location and orientation of said parts, and he then mocks up and custom builds all exhaust and intake plumbing with corresponding flanges and mounts for all parts you have specified?
I promise I'm not trying to be difficult. I'm seriously just trying to understand what this guy actually does to help determine the best/least expensive route for you.
I promise I'm not trying to be difficult. I'm seriously just trying to understand what this guy actually does to help determine the best/least expensive route for you.
My mechanic owns a shop and installs custom turbo kits. He is an experienced welder and fabricator and will have most of the materials other then the turbo, wastegates, and bovs. We did discuss turbo sizes and he suggested a rear mount turbo to take care of the heat issues and he’s currently doing the same set up on a c6.
thanks for asking all the right questions
03-11-2018, 01:27 PM
#56
My mechanic owns a shop and installs custom turbo kits. He is an experienced welder and fabricator and will have most of the materials other then the turbo, wastegates, and bovs. We did discuss turbo sizes and he suggested a rear mount turbo to take care of the heat issues and he’s currently doing the same set up on a c6.
thanks for asking all the right questions
thanks for asking all the right questions
03-11-2018, 01:38 PM
#57
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Unfortunately, breaking $hit is part of going fast. There's no way around it. If this car is intended as a fun, good weather driver with some occasional road course/drag strip shenanigans, leave everything stock and swap parts as they break. If you want a legit drag strip beast that occasionally sees the street, put a powerglide and a solid 9" rear end in that thing.
03-11-2018, 01:39 PM
#58
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yep those were all parts of the plan, I’ve been thinking about it for a while and was happy to hear someone will be doing it prior.
