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Lol, yeah, I told him you two should talk, figured you'd get along good. I think you posted in a thread of his on Tech which made me tell him to hit you up.
Turbos and manifolds are back in, heads on (obviously). Working on cleaning some oil leakage grime from the cradle and underside. Waiting on pushrods from Mamo now that I've measured. Trying to figure out turbo inlets and a good breather tank setup. Other than that and some minor fuel rail mods, it should be buttoned up in a couple of weeks.
.These things work awesome and give you just about zero oil pullover. You just have to get a little creative with check valves and hose routing to make sure you always have the crankcase venting through it to a vacuum source. I use one check valve going toward the intake manifold to the stock PCV fitting and another check valve going to the turbo inlets. The former works under vacuum and the latter under boost so the crankcase is always scavenged.
Here's mine for inspiration. The previous owner did the initial bending and notching to make it fit, and I spent a little more time with vice grips and pry bars tweaking it to make it fit better. I've run it for over a year since and it works great. Let me know if you have any questions or want pictures of specific areas. It's set up with a pulsation damper for returnless operation in the picture, but I'm plumbing a return line and adding a regulator this year...anybody want a low-mileage pulsation damper?
@TastyBacon I initially wanted to bend these fuel lines to make them fit, but there were two areas of concern. First, the amount of movement needed would have badly thrown off everything on one side of the rails. Second, the feed side line dip under the rails had all kinds of contact with part of the manifold shell.
I think I've got it fixed, will know in a couple of days. I have Bosch 95lb Injectors which come in at 2.486" bare (63.15mm), and they have a .945 (24mm) tall adapter on the top side giving them a total height of 2.985" (75.84mm). I did some digging and found an adapter that still has the proper 14mm sizings, but is 1.5" long (38.1mm) with an added height to the injector of 1.06" (26.93mm). This puts me moving from about 76mm to just over 90mm, a 14mm height increase. PLENTY of room for the 97-98 rail to have absolute clearance over the manifold, and since I have to make some stand off's anyways to bolt it up (thinking blocks of aluminum, factory mount screw recessed and another hold drilled/tapped to use the factory rail mounts), I can compensate for the height to keep the adapters from bottoming in the rail cup (and potentially causing a flow issue) since they don't have a shoulder on them.
Seems like a lot of effort just to keep the OEM rails. Wouldn't it just be easier to swap to aftermarket rails?
Easier? Sure. Also more costly and a lot uglier. One of the nicest things about how I had the car set up before was you could look in the engine bay and not really tell much is going on. Factory rails and lines have gone over 900 RWHP before, which should suffice for me (I'm aiming for 1k but anything over 900 and I'll be pretty content). I'm going to let the fuel system be the limitation for this setup.
Down the road I may move over to billet rails and such, but it'll be on my terms and at my leisure. I'm. Also doing the stock stuff because I want to see how far they can be pushed.
In other news ........it's looking like a motor now.
New filters will be here today. I did a CAD model to test fit (Bad Obsession Motorsports reference, check out their Project Binky on YT.....it's awesome). These will be directly on the turbos with a very short bend to help out.
Waiting on a bucket of plumbing stuff from Summit for the Scavenge and Breather Tank systems, and injector hats from Michigan Motorsports.
Still need to do a bit of cleaning and scrubbing about in the engine bay, and will need a couple of fittings for the breather tank setup once I decide on a location, but really it's about down to some plumbing, and getting the shroud, radiator, and condenser all back in.
@TastyBacon I initially wanted to bend these fuel lines to make them fit, but there were two areas of concern. First, the amount of movement needed would have badly thrown off everything on one side of the rails. Second, the feed side line dip under the rails had all kinds of contact with part of the manifold shell.
Yeah, I get it. There's a lot of bending required, but it can be done. It was an iterative process. When I bent one area, that would throw a bunch of other things off, and I just kept bending and test fitting until I got it. It took a few hours until I was satisfied with how it fit and sealed. It definitely didn't make me feel warm and fuzzy while I was bending it, and if someone had not already started it I probably wouldn't have gone this route, but I was just improving on somebody else's work and it ended up working well. Good luck.
Injector hats came in. Got the space I needed and a bit extra. Best part is they have a groove so I can run an upper clip on the rail end to keep them from bottoming out.
Bad news is when I bought the rails, the place that I bought them from sent three lines for connecting to the hard lines, none of which is the correct line to use on either feed or return. Great.
What are the lengths of the lines you received? I have a set of stock '98 lines I'm not using.
I'll measure tomorrow when I'm home from work. I'm starting to wonder if the hard lines got shifted, I was looking at pictures and my lines don't look to be in the same location as what I'm seeing.
Steady progress! Keep it going and you'll be back on the road in no time!
That's how I'm feeling but I know my OCD about this with this car is going to slow the progress down too. I'm HOPING to have it done and get lucky enough to get a start up tune on it before the end of the month. I have a short family vacation planned and then leave on a business trip in early July for a month. Would like to have it running before I go. Fortunately my work schedule while trying (12 hour shifts) gives me 3-4 days off per week too.
Originally Posted by Turpid porpoise
If aren't dead set on running OEM fuel hoses you can use something like these Dorman 3/8 fuel line connectors and regular 3/8" rubber fuel line or just some AN adapters and braided hose.
Yeah, it would be AN adapters and hose, but I think someone adjusted the fuel lines before I bought the car back because the ends are sticking out from under the cowl and every stock 97-98 engine bay pic I see they're tucked under.
Just a few minute of tinkering today before work: Here's what I'm looking at. I had the firewall clip upside down, so the hard lines were thrown off. Flipped it, got them situated, but it's still looking like the lines I have are too long.
10-29-2018, 11:44 AM
