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I just finished the same thing with an elite 2500 purchased from Bret. The stock PCM, bcm, fuse boxes, and all electronics were deleted. The abs wires have been mostly left as a flying lead harness in case I decide I can’t live without it and must find a way to make it work. I originally ran the pcm in parallel (for inspection purposes, then bought a piece of land where there is no obd2 testing so I ripped the pcm out, too). Some original harnesses and sensors remain, but everything is run through a new, consolidated fuse box.
I didn’t see you mention a dash. I went with an AIM dash with the street icons. The stock multifunction turn signal stalk is still in use, but powering new led lights all around. With no pcm, you won’t have a fuel level gauge. I think I have a workaround for getting the two tanks to a single gauge through the aim dash, but I need to test my theory first.
If if you have any questions on the wiring just let me know. There is a lot more that I’m sure I forgot to mention.
I'm working on a big CI TT build and plan on trailering it to TX to have Brett tune it. He did the tune in my car currently and it is absolute perfection
Nice. Bret definitely a lot of fans here. He currently has my car and it almost done. I know he wants to get finished because once my car is out of the way, he is starting on his personal car next.
The fuel gauge isn’t the only gauge that relies on the pcm, either.
The fuel gauge, turn signals, and software were my biggest reasons for going AIM. I think the AEM cd-7 is another dash that could handle all the necessities.
My untested theory is that by running the fuel senders in series and using a custom range iron canyon Motorsports fuel sender I can have a single gauge on the AIM dash. Any thoughts or ideas on that? Or just run a gauge for each tank...
i just remembered that oil temp is another gauge that will be run through my dash.
The fuel gauge isn’t the only gauge that relies on the pcm, either.
The fuel gauge, turn signals, and software were my biggest reasons for going AIM. I think the AEM cd-7 is another dash that could handle all the necessities.
My untested theory is that by running the fuel senders in series and using a custom range iron canyon Motorsports fuel sender I can have a single gauge on the AIM dash. Any thoughts or ideas on that? Or just run a gauge for each tank...
i just remembered that oil temp is another gauge that will be run through my dash.
The IQ3 street has a fuel level gauge, turn signals, high beam signal, etc. It all comes down to what Bret tells me we need to get what I need working. I kind of do want to keep most of the street functions(turn signals, high beams, fuel level, etc) for those 50-100 miles it DOES see the street each year. Bret is going to be calling me today so we can go over a lot of this so I will report back after I speak with him.
Haltech delivery came in late last week and I started laying everything out on the floor just to see how it will need to go together. At this point I think I will be mounting the Elite and Wideband module in the passenger airbag location and the fusebox in the glove box location but this may change. The only thing not pictured is the Dual Wideband display gauge because I already dropped it into my gauge pod.
Finally got started on this but didn't get very far. Harness is through the firewall and I started laying it over the motor but I'm still waiting on my LS2 intake and TB so I didn't come close to finishing. I'm also considering doing a full PCM/BCM delete for a couple reasons, one of which is to avoid cutting up this beautiful harness that Haltech made to patch in the OEM PCM.
Inside the engine bay
Under the dash
Tried my hand at some wire twisting and then wrapped in TechFlex loom, heat shrinked and pinned the DTM connector on the end.
The fuel gauge isn’t the only gauge that relies on the pcm, either.
The fuel gauge, turn signals, and software were my biggest reasons for going AIM. I think the AEM cd-7 is another dash that could handle all the necessities.
My untested theory is that by running the fuel senders in series and using a custom range iron canyon Motorsports fuel sender I can have a single gauge on the AIM dash. Any thoughts or ideas on that? Or just run a gauge for each tank...
i just remembered that oil temp is another gauge that will be run through my dash.
I set up a IQ3 dash on the driver side fuel tank only so he knows when he gets below 1/2 tank and follows the odometer to know where he is otherwise.
ah damn, im interested in running it as a piggyback. My car only comes out for mexico, track days and the occasional cars an coffee. Im mostly considering it for the flex fuel/boost control/and traction control.
Piggy-backing a system into these cars is something that I walk customers through with all kinds of supporting documents, phone calls etc. I even have a nice front wheel speed sensor kit specifically for C5's and 6's that's easy to mount and get dialed in. The traction control in these Haltechs works great and the boost control is unparalleled.
Piggy-backing a system into these cars is something that I walk customers through with all kinds of supporting documents, phone calls etc. I even have a nice front wheel speed sensor kit specifically for C5's and 6's that's easy to mount and get dialed in. The traction control in these Haltechs works great and the boost control is unparalleled.
I'm in. I need to do just this with you and Eric. I have an older Platinum 2000 and want to do flex fuel
I need to get a copy of the wiring harness and a base tune to swap in a little 4.8 iron block thumper to replace the ls6 (better block strength, higher power band)
I'm wanting to upgrade to the champion 3" and .82 exh housings on the turbos on run 127 bocsch injectors.
just need a bit of tech support to get this rolling and we have a dyno so we can remote tune this bad boy.
Piggy-backing a system into these cars is something that I walk customers through with all kinds of supporting documents, phone calls etc. I even have a nice front wheel speed sensor kit specifically for C5's and 6's that's easy to mount and get dialed in. The traction control in these Haltechs works great and the boost control is unparalleled.
Bret has been extremely helpful providing information to me over the phone to piggyback this just enough to provide information to the stock cluster but the more I look at it the more I want to just go all in and buy the IQ3. The Haltech harness is just to nice for me to start splicing into.
But until I make that decision I am still plugging away. LS2 manifold came in so I started laying the harness over the top and fastening it down with some cushion clamps. Also started depinning the stock PCM and removing whatever wires I am no longer using. Still have to start depinning from the fuse box but I am just about done at the PCM plugs.
Remaining plugs are over the mirror. Everything else is gone.
So I made the plunge and ordered the Racepak IQ3 and FIC127 for Flex Fuel purposes. I'll be wiring the fuel gauge into my drivers side fuel level sensor as Bret mentioned.
As of now, I have the Elite and fuse box mounted and I tied the DBW wires from the Elite harness into the TAC wiring. You can do this at either end of the TAC wire harness(pedal side or TAC module side), I chose the pedal side because I didn't want to run the wires back into the engine bay.
Last edited by Turpid porpoise; 04-15-2018 at 07:09 AM.
Here's another small update to keep this alive. I received my Racepak and both sides of the harness for that completed. I decided to tie into the wires that originally sent power/signals to the OEM cluster so hopefully those wires work properly. This way the cluster is also fused in the OEM fusebox using the original cluster fuse which should be more than adequate. The DTM 8 houses the power, ground, turn signal, ebrake signal, high beam signal and fuel level sender wires, one DTM 2 pin goes back to my CAN hub and one DTM 2 pin goes to the momentary buttons for flipping through Racepak screens. All of the other flying leads were removed after taking the picture(Coolant temp, oil pressure, VSS, External fan relay, etc) as they are unneeded with the Elite 2500 can communications.
Here is the OEM wiring diagram for the cluster
Wire color and locations on both the IQ3 plug/harness and the corresponding wires from the OEM cluster harness.
OEM Cluster plug
Expandable loom and heat shrink on all connections. Flying leads have since been depinned.
12V switched that is on during cranking. This is the plug going into the bottom of the key cylinder. Pink wire is 12V switched that stays on during cranking. Heat shrink and zip tie to make sure it never pulls apart.
I‘m in Forney, just east of Dallas, only 26mi from downtown Dallas actually.
Cell# is 972-741-7457 text me first please. It helps me avoid answering calls from the robots.
I'm very close now, I'm just waiting on some more wiring supplies to tie up a few loose ends before the dash goes back in. I ended up buying a 26 pin milspec plug to mount in the trunk to run my wiring to the fuel level sensor, vss, diff temp, trans temp, reverse lockout, etc. Waiting on some shrink boots and a bit more wire and I'll be done.
I got my alternator, fuse box and starter wiring complete so I finally got to test fire the IQ3. I also tried my hand at thermoforming but I definitely used ABS that was to thick(3/16"). I ordered 3 sheets of 1/16" ABS to give another go. All of the indicator lights on the cluster work(signals, hazards, ebrake, high beams, etc) which means my wiring connections are good.
Aside from that I've been plugging away at all the wiring in my car and I completed the MilSpec flange receptacle that is going in the floor of my trunk. I also completed the plug side that goes to a DTM-12 pin connector just below the Haltech fusebox and then to my new I/O Expander box. The Milspec connector houses Diff Temp, Trans Temp, VSS and Fuel Level inputs as well as the Reverse Lock Output. I used a 26 pin connector so I have plenty of slots left to wires if I decide to add anything else under the car.
03-25-2018, 10:11 AM
