Thinking I might sell the centri.............LSA time?
03-25-2018, 09:09 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Its all about the centri setup. They have to pullied aggressively. You see guys with base kits making 5-550 hp and 8psi losing and are lazy on the hit. If you are pullied for max blower speed it will come on hard and make boost. Most guys put it on a stock engine and don't pulley it correctly.
03-25-2018, 09:54 PM
#22
Drifting
Some people also pulley for max rpm and use a restrictor plate in the intake tube. Makes it hit hard but only flow xxx air through the restrictor. Limiting power in the tuning works as well. All good ideas
03-26-2018, 08:43 PM
#23
Former Vendor
Ive have a brand new A&A TI kit waiting for my c5z. I know it will make great power.
Here my issue. I watch youtube, read forums and it seems centri's A&A or ECS or procharger get their SH*t pushed in by all motor cars making less horsepower and by LSA's and Zr1s. Seems it takes 50 to 100 horse over of centri power to stay with or beat an LSA or H/C/I LS7. Centris also dont have the low end of the ls7 or LSA/zr1.
I know for a fact the LSA would be more fun on the street. Ls7 is out of the question as it would cost too much.
I could sell the A&A kit, buy a LSA kit and still have extra money. Yes I would cut my cowl. I would go to a ls3 in a year or two if I went LSA.
Kind of a let down when you see high horse centris get **** punched by lesser horse Zr1/lsa/ ls7s.
Thoguhts? Should I sell the TI and go LSA?
Here my issue. I watch youtube, read forums and it seems centri's A&A or ECS or procharger get their SH*t pushed in by all motor cars making less horsepower and by LSA's and Zr1s. Seems it takes 50 to 100 horse over of centri power to stay with or beat an LSA or H/C/I LS7. Centris also dont have the low end of the ls7 or LSA/zr1.
I know for a fact the LSA would be more fun on the street. Ls7 is out of the question as it would cost too much.
I could sell the A&A kit, buy a LSA kit and still have extra money. Yes I would cut my cowl. I would go to a ls3 in a year or two if I went LSA.
Kind of a let down when you see high horse centris get **** punched by lesser horse Zr1/lsa/ ls7s.
Thoguhts? Should I sell the TI and go LSA?
Ive have a brand new A&A TI kit waiting for my c5z. I know it will make great power.
Here my issue. I watch youtube, read forums and it seems centri's A&A or ECS or procharger get their SH*t pushed in by all motor cars making less horsepower and by LSA's and Zr1s. Seems it takes 50 to 100 horse over of centri power to stay with or beat an LSA or H/C/I LS7. Centris also dont have the low end of the ls7 or LSA/zr1.
I know for a fact the LSA would be more fun on the street. Ls7 is out of the question as it would cost too much.
I could sell the A&A kit, buy a LSA kit and still have extra money. Yes I would cut my cowl. I would go to a ls3 in a year or two if I went LSA.
Kind of a let down when you see high horse centris get **** punched by lesser horse Zr1/lsa/ ls7s.
Thoguhts? Should I sell the TI and go LSA?
Here my issue. I watch youtube, read forums and it seems centri's A&A or ECS or procharger get their SH*t pushed in by all motor cars making less horsepower and by LSA's and Zr1s. Seems it takes 50 to 100 horse over of centri power to stay with or beat an LSA or H/C/I LS7. Centris also dont have the low end of the ls7 or LSA/zr1.
I know for a fact the LSA would be more fun on the street. Ls7 is out of the question as it would cost too much.
I could sell the A&A kit, buy a LSA kit and still have extra money. Yes I would cut my cowl. I would go to a ls3 in a year or two if I went LSA.
Kind of a let down when you see high horse centris get **** punched by lesser horse Zr1/lsa/ ls7s.
Thoguhts? Should I sell the TI and go LSA?
The reason behind this usually boils down to one major factor. “RPM”. As I’m sure you know Horse Power is a byproduct of torque per RPM. The curve plays a role too. 450 FTLBs of Torque at 6500 is abot 557 HP. Consequently 350 FTLBS of Torque at 8350 is also about 557 HP. Imagine though if you can keep the 450 FtLBS and carry it to 8,350 RPM!! You would make over 700 HP. The N/A guys (which in order to make power) in most cases must be able to turn more RPM than its boosted opponent. does come at the expense of some trade offs though. The first one is that valve train plays a big role in sustained RPM capability and the price of the top of the line valve train makes the price of the blower kit look cheap (let’s not forget about the need for a much better cylinder head in that scenario) Secondly is that the high RPM combos usually leave a lot to be desired in their docileness and street manners.
The guys to really watch out for are the ones crazy enough to turn a bunch of RPM and put boost on top of it. :-)
Last edited by The Race Engine Shop; 03-26-2018 at 08:44 PM.
05-27-2018, 02:01 AM
#24
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
You are correct sir! Got her tuned on e85 this week. I love it. The way the power is delivered is fantastic! It just keeps pulling up top. The power delivery isnt nearly as bad as some people make centris to be. With the TI, Im making 2 pounds of boost by 2.5k, alot better than I thought it would.
I have no idea whats it making but I had a nice steady pull on a GTR that made 630.
Going on the dyno June 9th!
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NSFW (05-27-2018)
05-27-2018, 02:52 AM
#25
Sounds like fun! Which pulley did you end up going with?
05-27-2018, 11:10 AM
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I dont think the mn12 trans gearing is very good for the superchager. Im excited to install the tr6060 this winter. Might install it before then! Dont really wanna drop everything do to it though maybe in late June. I dont think it would be very hard to swap trannys but Id like to do couplers or driveshaft at the same time and I dont know if I can swing that while saving for a wedding.
Last edited by Podium; 05-27-2018 at 11:11 AM.
05-27-2018, 02:03 PM
#29
You dont need the gearing it has in 1-3 with that much torque, MN6 or a 6060 would allow you to stay in the power a little longer.
I'm finishing up a T56 to a C6Z06 T56 upgrade with a C6Z diff now.
I'm finishing up a T56 to a C6Z06 T56 upgrade with a C6Z diff now.
Last edited by Millenium Z06; 05-27-2018 at 02:05 PM.
05-27-2018, 03:16 PM
#30
Drifting
You are correct sir! Got her tuned on e85 this week. I love it. The way the power is delivered is fantastic! It just keeps pulling up top. The power delivery isnt nearly as bad as some people make centris to be. With the TI, Im making 2 pounds of boost by 2.5k, alot better than I thought it would.
I have no idea whats it making but I had a nice steady pull on a GTR that made 630.
Going on the dyno June 9th!
I have no idea whats it making but I had a nice steady pull on a GTR that made 630.
Going on the dyno June 9th!
Pulley them aggressively and the boost comes on much better, is very linear increasing with the rpm and can even help with controlling the car. Also since the boost is less in the low rpm's you can have more timing in it down low to help with the lack of boost, increase torque and get the car moving. Then as the boost comes on in the higher rpm range, take the timing back out.
Just like any other build, its all about the setup. Doesn't matter if you are NA, nitrous, turbo, PD or centri.
Last edited by silver408z; 05-27-2018 at 03:18 PM.
05-27-2018, 03:23 PM
#31
Drifting
I dont think the mn12 trans gearing is very good for the superchager. Im excited to install the tr6060 this winter. Might install it before then! Dont really wanna drop everything do to it though maybe in late June. I dont think it would be very hard to swap trannys but Id like to do couplers or driveshaft at the same time and I dont know if I can swing that while saving for a wedding.
05-27-2018, 06:20 PM
#32
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Take the time and enjoy the car for now since you got it running. A mn6 or a tr6060 with right ratios is definitely better for big power. Some tr6060's have the same gear ratios as the mn12. I believe it was the z51 and grand sports tr6060 have the same gears as a mn12. A base car and c6z have the same ratios as a mn6. The zr1 tr6060 has the best ratios for big power. Also I am pretty sure the c6z and c6zr1 are stronger units than a base, a z51 or grand sports units(do research on that to be sure).
I already have the tr6060 in the garage with the adpater for the c5z diff from RKT. Its from a 2012 base.
The c6z and Zr1 have 30 spline main shafts compared to the others having 27 spline. Gears are physically the same size.
I bought the base with the 27 spline so It would fit in the c5z diff. I was going to put it in when I did the clutch but I might wait until the winter when I build the c5z diff up to 30 spline and do the same with the base TR6060 I have.
05-27-2018, 06:37 PM
#33
Race Director
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you might as well go with a c6z/zr1 diff if you are going to put in a 6060 in my opinion, the c5 diff case is puny compared to the c6z/zr1
05-27-2018, 07:00 PM
#34
I already have the tr6060 in the garage with the adpater for the c5z diff from RKT. Its from a 2012 base.
The c6z and Zr1 have 30 spline main shafts compared to the others having 27 spline. Gears are physically the same size.
I bought the base with the 27 spline so It would fit in the c5z diff. I was going to put it in when I did the clutch but I might wait until the winter when I build the c5z diff up to 30 spline and do the same with the base TR6060 I have.
The c6z and Zr1 have 30 spline main shafts compared to the others having 27 spline. Gears are physically the same size.
I bought the base with the 27 spline so It would fit in the c5z diff. I was going to put it in when I did the clutch but I might wait until the winter when I build the c5z diff up to 30 spline and do the same with the base TR6060 I have.
Heres a T56 (top) and a 6060 (bottom) main cluster
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05-27-2018, 07:02 PM
#35
C6Z diff has a better mount for big power guys too. The C5 diff is prone to driveline shake because of the way the diff mounts to the cradle with no lateral support
05-27-2018, 08:34 PM
#36
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
you might as well go with a c6z/zr1 diff if you are going to put in a 6060 in my opinion, the c5 diff case is puny compared to the c6z/zr1
C6Z diff has a better mount for big power guys too. The C5 diff is prone to driveline shake because of the way the diff mounts to the cradle with no lateral support
Last edited by Podium; 05-27-2018 at 08:34 PM.
05-28-2018, 02:15 AM
#37
Just a bite on the LSA, you won't be able to spin it as hard as the CTSV guys thanks to not being able to run as big lower pulley as they can! There are people running into the same issue with the heatbeat as well.
Might be worth looking at the older TVS2300 kits and running a cog rear drive as that lets you get a bit more of a step up. Now if Maggy did a 2650 upgrade for these blowers you could be on to a winner!
Other options could be the harrop 2650 LS3/LSA setup. You would be doing the work yourself though with little support! Or there is the Whipple 2.9 route.
Here is a good thread about the hearbeat and lower pulley restrictions: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...this-fall.html
Might be worth looking at the older TVS2300 kits and running a cog rear drive as that lets you get a bit more of a step up. Now if Maggy did a 2650 upgrade for these blowers you could be on to a winner!
Other options could be the harrop 2650 LS3/LSA setup. You would be doing the work yourself though with little support! Or there is the Whipple 2.9 route.
Here is a good thread about the hearbeat and lower pulley restrictions: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...this-fall.html
Last edited by chuntington101; 05-28-2018 at 02:27 AM.
05-30-2018, 07:13 AM
#38
Melting Slicks
I was talking the tr6060 base vs the tr6060 c6z and zr1. Sorry I wasnt clear.
I have the ECS brace and Pfadt trans mount. I feel that makes up for the short coming of the stock set up. I dont plan to launch it very often. I have all winter. I can have RKT build me a strong diff for around 2k. Built diff with the ECS brace and Pdaft trans mount will be good enough I think.
I have the ECS brace and Pfadt trans mount. I feel that makes up for the short coming of the stock set up. I dont plan to launch it very often. I have all winter. I can have RKT build me a strong diff for around 2k. Built diff with the ECS brace and Pdaft trans mount will be good enough I think.
05-30-2018, 10:39 AM
#39
due to lack of space. It's also a $10k kit.
05-31-2018, 08:47 PM
#40
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I feel like you could get a C6Z or ZR1 diff for less than that and have fewer headaches down the road. Like others have already mentioned, the major shortcoming of the C5 diff is the mounting points. Building the internals only does so much. The C5 diff has zero lateral support which can lead to issues on high powered cars. I think I paid something like $1500 for the diff, $50 for the cradle and $300 for diff mounts for my C6Z diff.
If I can do it for under 2k I will. Good reason to buy some Vikings coilovers lol