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See, This is why I'm confused. I have an 03 Z06. It has a 5.7 LS6. I'm pretty sure I can't run the LS3 heads. Not without a TON of work. Might as well get a crate engine at that point. Or, is my head still in the clouds somewhere?
Like I said - OLD SKOOL. I like to open a hood and see dual quads on a tunnel ram. The LS1 Mazda swap really opened up a 'Whole Nuther' world for me and I gotta a LOT to learn.
dude, my bad... that was GB that just bought the LQ4. i mixed y'all up in my mind.
Another stupid question, what is the consensus on pinning the balancer for an LSA? Will the LSA with a modified snout put enough load on a single 6 rib belt to slip the balancer on the crank snout?
I just had the whole front end of my motor apart and If I decide to go the LSA route I will be kicking myself for not pinning the crank when I had the perfect opportunity to do so.
Might have to go peruse some sloppy mechanics videos.
Searching the webs I can't even find an answer if the factory GM cars that utilize the LSA supercharger are even pinned or keyed stock.
Mr Black
I plan on pinning my balancer. The jig was included with my 'kit' from BD. From what I've learned it will be OK to run the 6 rib belt with this set-up. The LSA's pulley is 8 rib but you run the 6 on it and it fits. Lots of guys doing it with no slipping. There WILL be some that say otherwise. I won't know for sure till I actually get it up and running. It is my understanding that you CAN swap it all out to 8 rib but it is a giant PITA because of the steering rack and may not be worth the added trouble / cost involved. Again, I'm learning as I go and have no experience as of yet.
it also depends on how much belt wrap each pulley gets, RPMs you're seeing, and how fast you're trying to spin the blower.
my stock 6rib did alright turning an underdriven TVS with a 3.3 for 8.5psi without breaking a sweat. got a little slip above 10psi when i swapped to the 2.9, but that was cured with a shorter belt. even changing to 1:1 rears & the old 3.3 for the same boost level held fine.
now i'm running that same belt on a 3.8 (tight as it gets) with OD cogs (4% higher ratio + another 500-1000 'til redline = 15.5-16.6k blower speed versus 13.7k before) and sounds like i'm starting to slip again above 10psi from what the shop says.
granted, i'd guess you're gonna slip on the snout pulley first unless you're going with something like a GripTec that might could hold stronger than the crank.
ps - magnuson included a crank pin kit with the original intent of 8psi, so of course i used it. glad i did now... except that i'll eventually have to do it again on an 8rib.
I am running a 3.3” on blower, a 10% overdriven harmonic,
and overdiven cogs, am makin 13lbs boost.
iI have 8 rib setup, and to tell the truth, lining up the pullies
is a pain, everything is slightly cocked, even the alt bracket, I’m just going to swap belts lol
But ! I think a flip drive would work well, but I’d like to swap to an ECS novi 1500 !
Last edited by LedfootLarry; 02-25-2019 at 09:07 AM.
Hi LedFoot
Are you running the LSA? If so, could you post some pics of the install and maybe talk about the firewall area notch? I am sure that more than one of us would like to see how you pulled it off. The car in your Avatar looks Strong! Even if not an LSA swap I would LOVE to see more of it.
Hi LedFoot
Are you running the LSA? If so, could you post some pics of the install and maybe talk about the firewall area notch? I am sure that more than one of us would like to see how you pulled it off. The car in your Avatar looks Strong! Even if not an LSA swap I would LOVE to see more of it.
According to his profile he is running the TVS 2300. As far as I know, there are no cars on this forum running the LSA.
My Bad! Its Amazing what you can find in a profile... If you bother to look (D'Oh!)
704 HP !? That thing is All Business. Nice work LedFoot!
I guess I gotta make a profile now, huh.
If you watch the video link below @ 3:55 you can get somewhat of an idea of how much of the wiper cowl needs to be cut. Also afterwards throughout the video you can see the cut from a few different angles. This is what I've been going off of for how much of the cowl will likely need cutting.
These are the best captures I could get, I know I saw a better one before that was looking directly down at the blower lid from the rear of the blower at the windshield but I cannot remember what video it was in, I believe they where changing a bad plug or wire or coil or injector or something in that area. May search later. Been stuck working 10 hour shifts last few weeks so havent really had time to review much. Just snapped these real quick today during some down time at work.
** Mind you, he is running BOTH the thermal reduction plates and the cathedral to square port adapter plates, which have to be at least a nice 2 inches or more thick. He Is also running the CTSV lid. I think without those plates and using LS3 heads as well as a ZL1 lid instead, you could probably get away with cutting much less of the wiper cowl than in this video. Further more if someone wanted to go another route and additionally add subframe spacers, lower motor mounts, etc. They may even be able to get away with not cutting the cowl all together. Im willing to run LS3 heads and a ZL1 lid but the subframe spacers and shorter motor mounts i'm against for my setup at least. I still doubt I will have this together before winter this year regardless so if someone else completes it on the forums I can take there knowledge and more detailed pictures of the cowl cutting job.
Last edited by GradyBaby16; 02-28-2019 at 01:57 PM.
While I wait for funds and time to align with racecar wants. I pieced together the build. My complete build im estimating to be around $12,000. NOT JUST THE LSA
LSA Supercharger Kit - $4,500
GMPP LS3 Heads - $1,500
Built Block - $4,000
Alky Meth Kit - $640
Fuel System - $1000 (This is a guestimate as I have not actually decided/priced what all I will need i.e injectors, boost a pump, fuel pump, fuel ring adapter, lines, e85 compatible, etc.)
ATI Balancer (non underdrive) - $380
Rotating Assembly balancing - ??
Misc small parts, gaskets - ??
Also below is the build I plan to do to the block. Me and a buddy decided we will probably clean up the block ourselves and install the bearings, and drop everything off at a shop to be balanced. This should be around 9:1 compression. Anyone see anything wrong with the below block build before I begin buying parts.
Nice pics - What software did you use to snag them?
Here's the adapters I got from OKW (Through Boost District - $120 if I remember correctly) They are 1/2" thick (.514") and do both, adapt the Cathedral ports and add a cooling buffer. Thinner than I thought originally.
I have yet to start but thought I would add this to the mix here.
I just used Youtube and used the frame by frame keystroke and just did a screen capture.
I may have exaggerated the thickness a little. But Im guessing what was used on that Leroy car is probably close to an inch thick, havent looked it up. But apparently they felt the need to run both plates together. Im hoping the alky meth kit will help keep things cool for me since as of right now, im not planning to run any type of thermal reduction plates
Last edited by GradyBaby16; 03-01-2019 at 10:10 AM.
While I wait for funds and time to align with racecar wants. I pieced together the build. My complete build im estimating to be around $12,000. NOT JUST THE LSA
**parts, parts, parts**
Also below is the build I plan to do to the block. Me and a buddy decided we will probably clean up the block ourselves and install the bearings, and drop everything off at a shop to be balanced. This should be around 9:1 compression. Anyone see anything wrong with the below block build before I begin buying parts.
you planning on spending a lot of time part-throttle driving? how much boost you planning on running?
i ask because going low compression is more for running high boost and a lot of pressurized WOT (e.g., racing). if this is gonna be more of a street rod or not gonna see mid-teens boost or more, it'll feel a lot better & be more efficient to actually bump up the CR to mid-10s... obviously balancing the DCR with your cam selection.
Originally Posted by Turpid porpoise
This number makes me question why anyone wants to do this. You can get a centri kit for that number and not have to cut anything.
02-22-2019, 04:41 PM
