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Recommended Supporting mods with A&A S/C

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Old 05-15-2018, 06:32 PM
  #21  
vrybad
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Originally Posted by bmarcinczyk14
Thanks for the recommendation. Considering you have experience with a car similar in power level that mine will be, do you have any good tire recommendations? Car will be only street driven on dry sunny days and I want something that will obviously stick in a straight line but not give up too much with handling.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ted-vette.html

Take a look at this thread, a lot of good info and I think the Toyo's would work well if handling is a consideration.

I run MT ET Street Drag Radials 305/35-18 right now and though they stick like crazy, they do feel "off" in the corners, I guess due to the soft sidewall.

I may switch to the Toyo's as well when the time comes.

Last edited by vrybad; 05-15-2018 at 07:39 PM. Reason: Corrected tire size
Old 05-15-2018, 07:09 PM
  #22  
corvet786c
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Spend the money once and do it right the first time, twin disk clutch should hold up to your power levels. Alot of good information has been said here. The C5 platform in my opinion is just as good as the newer style c6 c7 vettes but for less money to upgrade.

Last edited by corvet786c; 05-15-2018 at 07:10 PM.
Old 05-15-2018, 07:43 PM
  #23  
vrybad
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Originally Posted by corvet786c
Spend the money once and do it right the first time, twin disk clutch should hold up to your power levels. Alot of good information has been said here. The C5 platform in my opinion is just as good as the newer style c6 c7 vettes but for less money to upgrade.

Last edited by vrybad; 05-15-2018 at 07:44 PM.
Old 05-15-2018, 08:29 PM
  #24  
neutron82
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go with a billet steel flywheel, I also highly suggest getting a good twin disc... I would not recommend using the stock clutch, you might get lucky and it holds the power but then you are stuck with the crap shifting... the stock clutch just blows when you try to add power and race it, if you are doing just a single gear pull then you MIGHT be ok but where's the fun in that
Old 05-15-2018, 10:58 PM
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bmarcinczyk14
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Originally Posted by corvet786c
Spend the money once and do it right the first time, twin disk clutch should hold up to your power levels. Alot of good information has been said here. The C5 platform in my opinion is just as good as the newer style c6 c7 vettes but for less money to upgrade.
It's still costing me a hefty amount of money for this upgrade taking into consideration all the parts and labor for everything. 12.8k kinda hefty lol, but I've decided for 600whp it's still worth it. Plus I'm doing it the right way with replacing the valve springs and putting in a McLeod twin disc clutch with steel flywheel and a shop that's well known for putting out great safe tunes. Plus the long tubes with x-pipe to help make that 600whp and hopefully an amazing sound on top of it.
Old 05-16-2018, 12:57 AM
  #26  
tommypenguin
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Originally Posted by neutron82
if you get lucky and it holds 600 in one gear wait until you have to shift and it won't let you
Tick master should be added to the list, nothing like shift lockout, it's quite an experience.
Old 05-16-2018, 09:21 AM
  #27  
bmarcinczyk14
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A little off topic, but to all the FI guys is 1st gear completely useless? 1st seems quite short even on my stock c5z, I can only imagine how magnified that is with FI.
Old 05-16-2018, 12:02 PM
  #28  
Quickshift_C5
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Originally Posted by tommypenguin
Tick master should be added to the list, nothing like shift lockout, it's quite an experience.
I disagree. I don't see the need, as there's nothing wrong with the OEM master. I still have the OEM in my car and it's been boosted since 2012. Although, I would absolutely replace the slave with another OEM unit if you're in there doing the clutch and add a bleeder line.

Last edited by Quickshift_C5; 05-16-2018 at 12:03 PM.
Old 05-16-2018, 12:18 PM
  #29  
vrybad
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Originally Posted by Quickshift_C5
I disagree. I don't see the need, as there's nothing wrong with the OEM master. I still have the OEM in my car and it's been boosted since 2012. Although, I would absolutely replace the slave with another OEM unit if you're in there doing the clutch and add a bleeder line.
I generally agree with this.
With the RPS triple in my previous car, I kept the stock master cylinder and had no problems, shifted sweet at 6500rpm.
I know others have had issues, I don't know exactly why, your results may vary.
Agree about the slave as well, put a new one in without question.
Also absolutely put in a remote bleeder line, this will make bleeding the clutch SOOOOOOO much easier, worth every penny.
Old 05-24-2018, 10:20 AM
  #30  
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Stupid question, but is the whole drive belt switched out with the A&A supercharger?
Old 05-24-2018, 05:11 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by bmarcinczyk14
Stupid question, but is the whole drive belt switched out with the A&A supercharger?
I do believe that is the case but your builder should know as well.
I've never personally had a supercharged car.
Old 05-24-2018, 06:09 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by bmarcinczyk14
Stupid question, but is the whole drive belt switched out with the A&A supercharger?
unless you have a secondary/flip drive then yes, the supercharger belt is the same one that drives the water pump, power steering, and alternator... the ac belt won't be touched in that case unless you request to have it changed which isn't a bad idea since it's cheap and requires a bit of labor to get to if you need to change it after the fact
Old 01-15-2024, 11:01 PM
  #33  
brettcoom123
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This is so true btw the warmer she is the more she grips



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