Close to pulling trigger in A&A- have question on lowered car
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Close to pulling trigger in A&A- have question on lowered car
Guys,
I am close to choosing an A&A kit, but two things. My car is lowered all the way on stock bolts and I have hotchkis sway bars.....So....
1) With this kit and others I am sure you need to lower the crashbar\rad support just under an inch.......Have you guys experienced more hits to the fangs or nose of the car?? I am already pretty close to hitting things due to my driveway and 4 post lift...I prefer not to lift my car as I like it lowered the way it is...Can anybody share pics under the nose near the fangs? I want to see what the final assembly looks like....
2) Anybody have issues with the SC tubes\plumbing with the sway bars getting in the way. My aftermarket one is so much thicker than stock...
Thanks for whoever can help a guy out...
I am close to choosing an A&A kit, but two things. My car is lowered all the way on stock bolts and I have hotchkis sway bars.....So....
1) With this kit and others I am sure you need to lower the crashbar\rad support just under an inch.......Have you guys experienced more hits to the fangs or nose of the car?? I am already pretty close to hitting things due to my driveway and 4 post lift...I prefer not to lift my car as I like it lowered the way it is...Can anybody share pics under the nose near the fangs? I want to see what the final assembly looks like....
2) Anybody have issues with the SC tubes\plumbing with the sway bars getting in the way. My aftermarket one is so much thicker than stock...
Thanks for whoever can help a guy out...
#2
I cant answer the sway bar but my car is slammed on coilovers and I dont have any problem with banging the nose on stuff (basically). I did hit a dip in the free way at 135+ one time and broke the intercooler scoop and brackets, but that was less than $20 to fix in an afternoon. The piping is all tucked up in the plastic pannels on the bottom of the car for the most part, but i dont think it rides close enough to anything under there to interfere with the sway bar
The following users liked this post:
CorvetteBrent (11-12-2018)
#3
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I cant answer the sway bar but my car is slammed on coilovers and I dont have any problem with banging the nose on stuff (basically). I did hit a dip in the free way at 135+ one time and broke the intercooler scoop and brackets, but that was less than $20 to fix in an afternoon. The piping is all tucked up in the plastic pannels on the bottom of the car for the most part, but i dont think it rides close enough to anything under there to interfere with the sway bar
The following 2 users liked this post by leo12:
CorvetteBrent (11-12-2018),
tabbruzz (10-26-2018)
#5
Safety Car
I will get some pics up later today for ya. I am lowered on stock bolts with Hotchkis bars, no issues with SC plumbing and bars getting in the way. The only scrapping I get is that Black Air Dam, if that what it is, under the front.
PC
PC
The following users liked this post:
CorvetteBrent (11-12-2018)
#6
Race Director
Member Since: Dec 2010
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 10,426
Received 1,260 Likes
on
1,055 Posts
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
I have a fat front sway bar and had to remove the power steering cooler in order for the pipe to not get squished... if you don't have an actual cooler and just have a looped hardline then you should be fine and not have to remove it
The following users liked this post:
tabbruzz (10-26-2018)
#7
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Awesome....Feedback appreciated and pics would be great
#8
To regain your stock clearance you can cut and reweld the perches on the rad cradle lower to put it back in the stock position while having the lowered rad for the intake tube.
You could also make some brackets to hold the perches and screw or rivet them to the cradle framing.
You can trial fit it since the cradle can be removed with the rad in the car
You could also make some brackets to hold the perches and screw or rivet them to the cradle framing.
You can trial fit it since the cradle can be removed with the rad in the car
Last edited by StrangelovesM6Vert; 11-05-2018 at 03:46 AM.
#9
Safety Car
Thread Starter
To regain your stock clearance you can cut and reweld the perches on the rad cradle lower to put it back in the stock position while having the lowered rad for the intake tube.
You could also make some brackets to hold the perches and screw or rivet them to the cradle framing.
You can trial fit it since the cradle can be removed with the rad in the car
You could also make some brackets to hold the perches and screw or rivet them to the cradle framing.
You can trial fit it since the cradle can be removed with the rad in the car
The following users liked this post:
CorvetteBrent (11-12-2018)
#10
Drifting
look in my install thread where i wrapped the rubber hose, because its rubbing on the 33mm sway, even if at stock height.
Last edited by romandian; 11-11-2018 at 12:03 PM.
The following users liked this post:
CorvetteBrent (11-12-2018)
The following users liked this post:
CorvetteBrent (11-12-2018)
#12
Safety Car
Thread Starter
#13
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2007
Location: Oviedo Florida
Posts: 8,815
Received 1,253 Likes
on
817 Posts
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2021 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2016 C5 of Year Finalist
You will have NO problems. I am 4 inch's off the ground, with a 35 mm front sway bar. Please keep in mine that the A&A tech support is very good. Call them, with any perceived problems . It's free and they are helpful.
Good luck.
Good luck.
The following users liked this post:
CorvetteBrent (11-12-2018)
#14
Safety Car
Thread Starter
good to hear...I appreciate it...good info
#15
Mine is lowered on stock bolts to the max. I had some ground clearance issues, and ended up using a cut down radiator and putting the radiator cradle back to the stock position. All is well now.
#16
Safety Car
Thread Starter
#17
I purchased the one from A&A when I did the install initially. I did have to trim a few of the sheet metal panels and raise the mounting point of the intercooler slightly to make it all work. Ground clearance is identical to stock with lowered bolts now.
#18
Safety Car
Thread Starter
umm...good to hear...so how is the cooling for the intercooler now that you raised it a bit? Does it still have that scoop attached low enough to direct the airflow? So those spacers that the included were not used? Did you still the mount the horn bracket in between the rad mount and car? I believe it goes under that space they include..
#19
umm...good to hear...so how is the cooling for the intercooler now that you raised it a bit? Does it still have that scoop attached low enough to direct the airflow? So those spacers that the included were not used? Did you still the mount the horn bracket in between the rad mount and car? I believe it goes under that space they include..
#20
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Scoop is still in place, no change in cooling for the intercooler. I am using meth too so intake coolant charge is always on point. Car sees 15 psi in hot weather and 17-18 in cool weather. No, I did not use the spacers when I lifted it back up. I left the horn in the spot the instructions say to relocate it to.