Going S/C soon, critique my build plan
11-13-2018, 12:10 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Going S/C soon, critique my build plan
Hey guys, going to be pulling the trigger soon on a supercharger setup and would like some feedback or advice from those who've been down the road before. I've read thru countless threads, but it's still nice to get a little check before taking the plunge. Black friday sale maybe hmm hmm?
Car as it sits now is 2003.5 C5 Z06 with forged piston/rod 5.7L, ported 243s, 226/230 .600 113 cam, LT headers/x-pipe etc. Car made ~450whp and a hair over 400tq on a dynojet at sea level. I just recently moved to ~4300' elevation and the combination of that and my latest dyno as of a few days ago on a Mustang dyno gave me 350whp uncorrected and 405whp SAE. (FML)
My original 'target' hp was around 650, and now that I'm at higher elevation I'd still like to get somewhere near there or as much as I can fighting this thin air. Plan is A&A kit, Ti-trim v3 with either the 3.6 or 3.4 pulley 6 rib. 3.6 will hit max blower rpm at 7000 and 3.4 would be at 6500.
Fueling wise, only 91 up here (and even that is rare, 90 is more common), so methanol is a must and I already have an AEM kit. Still on the fence about 50/50, 100% meth and nozzle sizing. I know 100 methanol is most popular on here. I like the idea of keeping the washer tank in tact for washer duties and the mix generally not being so flammable...but I'm also lazy and don't like the idea of constantly mixing or potentially giving up too much power.
Fuel pump, I dropped the tanks and installed the Lingenfelter "drop in" Walbro 450 using the stock lines and regulator. Plan on getting 80 lb/hr injectors up front because I will not have a boost referenced FPR so a little more injector headroom will be a good idea IMO. May or may not need the BAP, we will see.
In the rice/electronics department I have had an Innovate LC-2 in my X pipe for quite awhile and log via serial with EFI Live. I bought 2 x Aeroforce Interceptor gauges and will run a wideband analog output to it, as well as a fuel pressure sending unit, so I can monitor those all the time. I really like the alarm functionality of these things and that I can see everything I need in 2 gauges.
Will be running the standard 2 bar (or is it 2.5 bar?) MAP sensor and remove the MAF for a SD only tune.
- For those that do your own tuning, any comments on IAT sensors / mounting locations (plastic push in vs metal thread in sensor, before vs after TB, heatsoak)? I've tuned other cars with SD before and sensor heatsoak / hot starts was always the bane of my existence. Right now I think my best plan is pre TB in the charge piping but I suspect there will be some heat soak from the radiant heat of the aluminum piping at idle / hot starts. Interesting note that my other car (Focus ST) is factory speed density tune and it places its IAT in the front mounted intercooler outlet. Also seems like pretty much everyone mounts it after the meth nozzles, which I'm not sure I totally agree with from a SD tuning / accurate fueling standpoint, but I guess it's all jacked up either way when you're injecting fuel that the PCM is totally unaware of.
- Recommendations on pulley size? Will the 3.4 put me any more at risk of belt slip or anything with the slightly larger Ti headunit? Atmospheric pressure up here is about 2 psi less than sea level and equates to around 15 percent power loss... Still I am thinking starting out with 3.6 would be smart to play it safe. A&A recommended 3.4 / max effort, just wanted some other opinions. There is not nearly as much Ti trim 'data' on the forums vs Si that I've come across. Ultimately I'm not chasing a power number, just whatever I can safely make with my combo of engine/blower/fuel octane.
- Is the stock pcv valve sufficient to keep boost out of the crankcase or should I look into getting something else? I have the 'normal' LS1/LS6 external PCV valve setup. If anyone has any recommendations on a tried and true 3/8" inline pcv / check valve, let me know the part number. I've also looked into a check valve that has a 1/4 NPT fitting so I could thread it into a catch can directly (like how mightymouse cans do). I've found this.....looks promising, but doesn't list anything for a cracking pressure to know if it would be suitable or not (looks like it normally is used on their air compressors)
Most of my questions at this point are some finer details, odds and ends... let me know if you have any other tips or advice or see something that's wrong. Looking forward to the install and tuning process coming up...and driving/enjoying it of course too.
Car as it sits now is 2003.5 C5 Z06 with forged piston/rod 5.7L, ported 243s, 226/230 .600 113 cam, LT headers/x-pipe etc. Car made ~450whp and a hair over 400tq on a dynojet at sea level. I just recently moved to ~4300' elevation and the combination of that and my latest dyno as of a few days ago on a Mustang dyno gave me 350whp uncorrected and 405whp SAE. (FML)
My original 'target' hp was around 650, and now that I'm at higher elevation I'd still like to get somewhere near there or as much as I can fighting this thin air. Plan is A&A kit, Ti-trim v3 with either the 3.6 or 3.4 pulley 6 rib. 3.6 will hit max blower rpm at 7000 and 3.4 would be at 6500.
Fueling wise, only 91 up here (and even that is rare, 90 is more common), so methanol is a must and I already have an AEM kit. Still on the fence about 50/50, 100% meth and nozzle sizing. I know 100 methanol is most popular on here. I like the idea of keeping the washer tank in tact for washer duties and the mix generally not being so flammable...but I'm also lazy and don't like the idea of constantly mixing or potentially giving up too much power.
Fuel pump, I dropped the tanks and installed the Lingenfelter "drop in" Walbro 450 using the stock lines and regulator. Plan on getting 80 lb/hr injectors up front because I will not have a boost referenced FPR so a little more injector headroom will be a good idea IMO. May or may not need the BAP, we will see.
In the rice/electronics department I have had an Innovate LC-2 in my X pipe for quite awhile and log via serial with EFI Live. I bought 2 x Aeroforce Interceptor gauges and will run a wideband analog output to it, as well as a fuel pressure sending unit, so I can monitor those all the time. I really like the alarm functionality of these things and that I can see everything I need in 2 gauges.
Will be running the standard 2 bar (or is it 2.5 bar?) MAP sensor and remove the MAF for a SD only tune.
- For those that do your own tuning, any comments on IAT sensors / mounting locations (plastic push in vs metal thread in sensor, before vs after TB, heatsoak)? I've tuned other cars with SD before and sensor heatsoak / hot starts was always the bane of my existence. Right now I think my best plan is pre TB in the charge piping but I suspect there will be some heat soak from the radiant heat of the aluminum piping at idle / hot starts. Interesting note that my other car (Focus ST) is factory speed density tune and it places its IAT in the front mounted intercooler outlet. Also seems like pretty much everyone mounts it after the meth nozzles, which I'm not sure I totally agree with from a SD tuning / accurate fueling standpoint, but I guess it's all jacked up either way when you're injecting fuel that the PCM is totally unaware of.
- Recommendations on pulley size? Will the 3.4 put me any more at risk of belt slip or anything with the slightly larger Ti headunit? Atmospheric pressure up here is about 2 psi less than sea level and equates to around 15 percent power loss... Still I am thinking starting out with 3.6 would be smart to play it safe. A&A recommended 3.4 / max effort, just wanted some other opinions. There is not nearly as much Ti trim 'data' on the forums vs Si that I've come across. Ultimately I'm not chasing a power number, just whatever I can safely make with my combo of engine/blower/fuel octane.
- Is the stock pcv valve sufficient to keep boost out of the crankcase or should I look into getting something else? I have the 'normal' LS1/LS6 external PCV valve setup. If anyone has any recommendations on a tried and true 3/8" inline pcv / check valve, let me know the part number. I've also looked into a check valve that has a 1/4 NPT fitting so I could thread it into a catch can directly (like how mightymouse cans do). I've found this.....looks promising, but doesn't list anything for a cracking pressure to know if it would be suitable or not (looks like it normally is used on their air compressors)
Most of my questions at this point are some finer details, odds and ends... let me know if you have any other tips or advice or see something that's wrong. Looking forward to the install and tuning process coming up...and driving/enjoying it of course too.
Last edited by aaronc7; 11-13-2018 at 11:02 AM.
11-13-2018, 11:04 AM
#2
Drifting
Thread Starter
Sorry for the long post, thought of something else.
- Any fitment issues with the standard Dewitts radiator? My exact model is the full size radiator with the built in engine oil cooler that's inside the driver side end tank and uses the C6 factory style lines or whatever.
- Any fitment issues with the standard Dewitts radiator? My exact model is the full size radiator with the built in engine oil cooler that's inside the driver side end tank and uses the C6 factory style lines or whatever.