CXRacing Single Turbo "Street Car"
#21
Le Mans Master
Cross beam is completely hollowed out, IC support bar is welded straight to the frame rails. Radiator support is just like the IC support but is welded to 4”x1/4” steel plates that are bolted to the OEM rad cradle locations, radiator is sitting in RSM radiator mounts clamped to 1 1/4” DOM.
Dual spal 10” fans with a fully enclosed shroud.
Catch cans. PCV can from the valley cover to the intake and a draft can off both valve covers
Wilwood prop valve and bracket, just needed a slight bend to clear the inner fender. May replace the front line to clean it up but as of right now it fits and seals so Im not terribly concerned.
they are not heat friendly and will crack and dump your brake fluid. (ask me how I know)
I went with the `127s and have an older Haltech s2000 platinum that I need installed and I hope to have Brett help me remote.
He's the man with the haltech and the turbo car. Congrats on your build.
Starting a "build thread" too so you guys can rag on me for taking 2 years to get started
#22
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
kudos for wrapping the pipes but you might need a heat blanket or fiberglass lid/cover for the mast cyl res.
they are not heat friendly and will crack and dump your brake fluid. (ask me how I know)
I went with the `127s and have an older Haltech s2000 platinum that I need installed and I hope to have Brett help me remote.
He's the man with the haltech and the turbo car. Congrats on your build.
Starting a "build thread" too so you guys can rag on me for taking 2 years to get started
they are not heat friendly and will crack and dump your brake fluid. (ask me how I know)
I went with the `127s and have an older Haltech s2000 platinum that I need installed and I hope to have Brett help me remote.
He's the man with the haltech and the turbo car. Congrats on your build.
Starting a "build thread" too so you guys can rag on me for taking 2 years to get started
Last edited by Turpid porpoise; 02-05-2019 at 09:30 AM.
#23
Le Mans Master
does help hold down the underhood temps. tiger shark front helps too!!
#24
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I’m hoping the center vent helps draw hot air from behind the radiator, I would love to add the tigershark bumper but I dont want to spend the money on it until the car is mechanically complete.
Last edited by Turpid porpoise; 02-06-2019 at 08:04 AM.
#25
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Finally making some progress. I decided instead of wasting money ordering new aluminum bends to get the charge piping complete I would just cut up the stuff I had laying around from the last 2 revisions and it got me 85% of the way there. I need one more 90* bend and a Vanjen assembly to join the IC to piping on the turbocharger's side. Also welded up my dumptubes and trimmed the hood vent a bit so they can exit right through the rear most slot in the hood vent. I'll be making a trim plate to keep the heat off the hood and reinforce where I had to cut. I'm just waiting on the right flange to finish up the downpipe and I need a couple fittings to complete the coolant hoses and then I have to send my drivers side fuel tank to Brett for a double pump install and then it's back on the road for tuning.
#26
Those K1 rods and Wiseco pistons look like a pretty popular combo. Wonder what hp those will handle since K1 doesnt rate rods? That'll be the combo I go with when my stocker grenades.
#27
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
When I had Brett spec all the internals I told him I was looking for about 900whp and thats what he gave me so I’m hoping they’re good for atleast that much. I believe he mentioned that he wouldnt recommend taking the motor above 7,000RPM with these rods.
#29
Safety Car
Do you have an underside pic of your lower radiator and intercooler mount? Id like to compare it to mine. Thanks
#30
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I can take one this evening but it's not completed yet. I wanted to get my charge piping routed before I completed it so I can build my front and/or rear support bars around the piping to ensure everything fits. As of now its just the "main hoop" the runs from frame rail to frame rail, I want the front/rear bars to help distribute the force if I ever bottom out.
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angeldog (12-27-2021)
#32
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
No, my car is gutted and caged. I removed all unnecessary weight including the AC, heater core and blower motor. I could have kept it if I wanted to but I don't drive it enough to need it.
#34
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#35
Le Mans Master
hell I think the gen 4 rods with the stock short 4.8 crank will take that power level at lower rpms
the turbo needs to stay in the sweet spot of the map through the intended rpm range and not choke it
I'd worry about big ol down pipes and go with the flow and keep it down around 6500 as you won't need to rev the snot out of it
#36
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Here's a small update to keep things moving. Down pipe and dumptubes have been completed, just need to take them out for ceramic coating. Working on ideas for trim plates to cover the parts of the vent I had to trim away, feel free to offer up ideas. All I'm waiting for now is my RSI fuel pump hanger and I have to redo the passenger front brake line before I can get back out on the road. I'm pretty happy with how the downpipe turned out but it will most likely change in the future because I'm toying with the idea of finding an OEM hood to put back on there so I'll probably just do a turn down.
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niterydr (06-12-2019)
#38
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#40
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I originally had a hinson single kit, then wanted a bigger turbo so i built a custom setup and ended up unhappy with fitment and maintenance with my kit so I bought the CX kit since it allowed me to use the same turbo. A few members hd really good reults with it so it seemed like a no brainer.
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evileight (03-27-2019)