This may be in the wrong thread, but I have a question on build.

I currently have an ls1 stock block, stock heads, A&A vortec v1 si, flex fuel 93 & E85, corsa extremes, headers, ls7 clutch, 80lb injectors, walbro 450, hot wire kit, makes 10lbs of boost at 565whp. Stock trans and rear end.

my plan is to make this a 383 stroker. Besides a forged stroker kit (probably lunati) and a BTR SC cam, HD oil pump, HD timing chain is there any thing I need to consider in addition to what’s already been done.

I am going to change the clutch and rear end as well. Would like about 700-800whp.

any suggestions recommendations are welcome. I still want it to have really good drive ability while being nasty when it needs to be.

stock fuel rails still as well, but I have read these are good to around 900 hp

 

I wouldn't sink any money into an Aluminum original LS1 block. They are the weakest of all LS blocks and have a max HP rating of about 850 rwhp. I would honestly be scared even at 800 wheel. For your goals I would honestly put a cheap stock gen 4 5.3 or 6.0 in it. It could be a junk yard motor with 150k miles and take that power all day. You don't need to spend the probably 4-6k on a forged short block for 750-800 rwhp. Stock 5.3's have been incredibly fast and made 1000+++rwhp many times. 6.0's aren't as strong IMO but could easily get you there as well. If you don't like that idea a SBE LS3 could probably handle that as well, or if you are stuck on the 383 idea, source an aluminum 5.3 block, and have the 383 (or better yet 363 - stock 5.3 bore but with a stroker crank) done in that. It will be heads and tails stronger than anything with an LS1 block. You won't be throwing your money away, which you will be putting anything into an ls1.

I would do an aluminum 5.3 based 363. You want to keep the stock bore on a 5.3 with boost because their thick sleeves is what makes them so strong with boost. But the stroker crank gets you more inches and tq, which it seems you are after. Or honestly just let the boost make up for the lack of inches and keep it the 325" and max the blower out. You won't be hurting for power even with 325".

 

thank you so much. I’ve been toying with the idea of doing a 5.3 build. I can get those all day for around $1500 for the block. I’m definitely wanting the low end tq, so the stroker made sense to me. Would the 5.3 build hold a YSI? I’m assuming it would if they are making 1000+whp.

im definitely not stuck on the 383. I would like to get the most bang for the buck and spend the rest in a new clutch and rear diff

 

the little thumpers work really well and will hold up at that power level all day long. The ls1 if you want to keep that block keep the power goals a bit more modest as the sleeves are more prone to cracking

I have an engine ready to go you might be interested in 4.8, wiseco 10-1 .020 forged pistons, gen 4 rods with sps bolts, stock crank it will take all you care to throw at it and break some hearts for cheap

PM me if interested

I also have a 5.3 alum block with an LSA crank that I'm looking to do with Molnar rods, diamond pistons, for a bit more spank 1500 or so that one is not as cheap, but very stout indeed

budget for a good mantic clutch, and tranny brace from ecs. I'm also interested in the "t bar" style tranny mount to better brace the rear. stock mount is too floppy

 

I cracked the ring land on #7 piston and intern cracked my LS6 block. I ended up getting a LS2 block. I built a 402 stroker. I’m running the A&A V3 TI. Running about 9psi and makes 700rwhp on 93. I’m very happy with my stroker. The torque down low is awesome. The only thing I would have done different is I would have got a good set of aftermarket heads instead using my 243’s.

I went with a Monster twin disk clutch. I”m very happy with the Monster. Make sure you get the remote bleeder and a new slave.

I had no interest in putting a extra 100 pound iron block in the car.

KT

 

A ring gapped SBE gen 4 5.3 with cam, springs, pushrods, and LS9 gaskets will take everything a YSI can offer given the tune is good. If you wanted to spend some extra money on "insurance" you could put some Trickflow 220 heads on it with ticker deck rather than a stock casting. If you want a stroker, I would do a 363. Which is the stock bore 5.3 but with a 4" crank. A stock stroke crank is stronger than the 4" unit though and LS family engines already have issues with crank and main flex, especially with an aluminum block. If you don't plan on turning big RPM the 4" crank would be fine. But anything more than 6.5k to 7k rpm I would stick with a stock stroke. You're going to have more power than you know what to do with, some extra tq down low will be the least of your concerns lol.

 

^^^^^ This! I would personally want a smaller cube engine that spins higher. Less torque down low makes for an easier launching and more predictable vehicle. Have you ever tried launching a roots blower style car? They are a nightmare to get off the line.