Road machine

On may 8th I was up at watkins Glen. Had the time of my life. I bought my Z06 in mid april with 6000 miles. At the track I ran good and hard and really used the brakes. After the day the brake pads where obviously shot, about 1/8" of pad left. Towed the car there and back so no problem there. Got new pads from the dealer. When I went to replace the pads, I noticed that the rubber boots on the caliper around both pistons was melted. When I did the other side had the same thing. So all four piston rubber boots are melted. Did I do something wrong. The pads had 5/16" on them before I went to the track.(I measured them before going) I think they where stock pads. Although they only had 1 slot in them as opposed to 2 slots on replacements. I know there was a midyear pad change so I chalked-up the difference to a part change. I ran Valvoline synthetic brake fluid which I put in before the track day. Bled the whole system and all. I didn't boil the fluid at all had a very good peddle first run to last run. I hit 140 on the back straight my last run and slowed to 50 for the shikane at the 300 mark with no problem. Is this a normal track use issue? has anybody else melted these boots? Any info would be greatly appreciated.

80shilling

Happened to me at Laguna Seca with my Porsche which came with awesome brakes from the factory.... I ended up having to go to bigger brakes... 14" rotors and the "Big Red" calipers. Also had to add additional cooling ducts. The 14" rotors had the chamfered slots on them, which helped cooling as well, as the slots allow the hot gas to escape from under the pad.

Ag-z06

Totally normal to melt the dust boots on track - don't worry bout it

mountainbiker2

Happened to me too. Just make sure you clean the piston when pushing it back for new pads.

DRKCYDE

This belongs to L98Terror after Gingerman.

DPG

first ive heard of this. great to know that this is a normal thing at the track.

Bill Dearborn

It is normal. Welcome to the fun of HPDEs.

We will have to work on you a little. Need to be a little faster going into the bus stop at the end of the back straight. Just takes a little getting used to the higher entry speed. You probably drive through sharper turns on the street at a higher rate of speed.

Bill

Road machine

I was normaly going into the shicane at about 75-80 that day but caught up to a frieght train there my last run. it was the fastest I had been able to go on the back straight and was reluctant to let up.

LTC Z06

Normal, but cooling ducts help so much, I never burnt my boots.

AU N EGL

Ahhhh Nooo... slots are used to scrap the brake pad of any debris and remove the glazing that may occure when ppl use too soft a pad compound for racing.

Hot gasses is a 40 -50 year old idea when brake pad manufatures used aspestous material in the brake pads. same the holes, any type of holes.

If your melting your melteing your brakes, yes additional cooling is needed, high temp brake pads, ( race pads not performance pads) but also a differnt braking style while driving is a good idea.

brake 25 -30 foot sooner, instead of always going extreemly deep into the corner then STOMP on your brakes. Use more momenteum then HP.

In many driving schools there are sessions when you lap with out using you brakes( emergacny use only). after a few laps the students are going almost as fast as when they did use their brakes.

Next sessions students dont use the brakes as much and lap and much faster speeds.

a past world champion Fagio was asked what was his secret to going so fast

"A little less brake, a little more throttle."

LouisvilleZ06

So I hate to bump an old thread, but I figure its better than starting a new one.

I found that must dust boots were completely melted off on on side's rear calipers last night, and about 95% gone on the other. I took the calipers off and was going to order a rebuild kit when I found this thread and several others like it saying that all of that was unnecessary as it would just happen again... SO:

1. Do I need to replace the "crush washers" on the brake lines before re-installing my calipers? if so would I be able to get them at auto parts stores or do I need to make a trip to the dealer

2. The pistons are definitely filthy. Do I need to pull the pistons to clean them? Once I pull them will I be able to re-install without needing a rebuild kit? what are the best methods for cleaning?

Thanks.

AU N EGL

Hell yah. I change my boots with rebuild kits twice a year, and toss the calipers every other winter.

If the boots dont get melted your not braking HARD ENOUGH

PhilsFRC

Last time I did it was with a BMW M635CSi on race tires at Sebring. Cooling ducts are your friend. New crush washers-yes. Pistons-you could try a fine Scotchbrite, but I don't know what C5 pistons are made of-if anodized aluminum-no.

jmz06

Hello,
please, how to do to change a broken boot like this one ?
Thanks a lot
jm

AU N EGL

Yup

Just rebuild your calipers with the GM kit twice a year and you will be fine.

jmz06

Hello,

does someone know how to change the dust boot with the caliper in place ?
Thanks a lot
Jm

PhilsFRC

Can't be done that way. Caliper needs to come off, remove pads, pry out the old seal being careful not to damage the bore, drive in new seals making sure they seat correctly both in the caliper bore and on the piston. There is usually a special tool to seat the seals, but you CAN do it with (care) an appropriate diameter socket and/or a brass drift.

jmz06

Hi,
thanks for your help.
I used a wrong term with 'in place', I meant with lockheed's hose in place
jm

PhilsFRC

I suppose you could. Maybe if you had a tall enough block of wood to set the caliper on while you worked on it with the brake line still attached.

jmz06

I will try to take some pics to make a How to.
Thanks