Wheel Bearing Question from accident HELP
#1
Safety Car
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Wheel Bearing Question from accident HELP
I had to nail a curb in my Z06 last week to avoid an accident. While nailing the curb i hit it hard with the side of my front passenget tire.
That wheel was toast so i went and got a set of chrome Z06 wheels for it. It the time between i noticed that the car made a vibrating noise (although no feeling of the vibration just the same noise) when turning the least little bit left. When i moved the car right it went away.
I was hoping it was just that bad wheel but its not. I have the tires mounted and balanced tonight on the new wheels and i have the same exact problem. The car pulls a little to the right (it needs an alignment still from the whack) and when i am turning to the left it makes this noise which then goes away again when going straight or to the right
I had the car on a lift tonight. Nothing appears damaged. The tie rods are straight, upper and lower control arms are good, things are tight with no sogns of stress etc. I appear to have been lucky. I did check the wheels for signs of play. Three of them are tight and have no movement side to side. The one i hit has the SLIGHTEST amount of movement. I mean a very little bit.
Could this be the problem? Would a wheel bearing cause these symptoms. I don't want to chase the problem down by throwing parts at it.
Please let me know if you have any knowledge on this.
Thanks,
Robert
That wheel was toast so i went and got a set of chrome Z06 wheels for it. It the time between i noticed that the car made a vibrating noise (although no feeling of the vibration just the same noise) when turning the least little bit left. When i moved the car right it went away.
I was hoping it was just that bad wheel but its not. I have the tires mounted and balanced tonight on the new wheels and i have the same exact problem. The car pulls a little to the right (it needs an alignment still from the whack) and when i am turning to the left it makes this noise which then goes away again when going straight or to the right
I had the car on a lift tonight. Nothing appears damaged. The tie rods are straight, upper and lower control arms are good, things are tight with no sogns of stress etc. I appear to have been lucky. I did check the wheels for signs of play. Three of them are tight and have no movement side to side. The one i hit has the SLIGHTEST amount of movement. I mean a very little bit.
Could this be the problem? Would a wheel bearing cause these symptoms. I don't want to chase the problem down by throwing parts at it.
Please let me know if you have any knowledge on this.
Thanks,
Robert
#2
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Thread Starter
I think i got my own answer. I checked it on the lift last week. I just jacked it up tonight and it has even more play then last week. Now you can hear the slop in it.
Is it safe to say i can just replace the bearing and be done with it. I'd prefer to not pay my mechanic. The drivers side wheel has zero play. The passenger side has about 1.8 of lateral play. It pulls right and makes noise when turning left, then if you turn right it goes away.
Would the impact with the curb ruin the bearing??
Is it safe to say i can just replace the bearing and be done with it. I'd prefer to not pay my mechanic. The drivers side wheel has zero play. The passenger side has about 1.8 of lateral play. It pulls right and makes noise when turning left, then if you turn right it goes away.
Would the impact with the curb ruin the bearing??
#3
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Originally Posted by robertpel9
I think i got my own answer. I checked it on the lift last week. I just jacked it up tonight and it has even more play then last week. Now you can hear the slop in it.
Is it safe to say i can just replace the bearing and be done with it. I'd prefer to not pay my mechanic. The drivers side wheel has zero play. The passenger side has about 1.8 of lateral play. It pulls right and makes noise when turning left, then if you turn right it goes away.
Would the impact with the curb ruin the bearing??
Is it safe to say i can just replace the bearing and be done with it. I'd prefer to not pay my mechanic. The drivers side wheel has zero play. The passenger side has about 1.8 of lateral play. It pulls right and makes noise when turning left, then if you turn right it goes away.
Would the impact with the curb ruin the bearing??
I don't want to comment on the structure of a corvettes suspension because honestly I don't know. But I do not that the Supra bearing needed to be pushed in with a huge press and the ball joints needed to be pressed in as well. Obviously, common tools cannot acheive this, so I'd find out what the Vette's suspension needs for replacement.
In your position, I'd try to isolate exactly where the play is coming from in your suspension. Then, THAT is the part you need to throw into the equation to try and fix it. It should be detectable with that amount of play.
#6
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That generally rules out the tie-rod ends, unless there's something completely different about the Vette than common knowledge. That could be a ball joint loose or a wheel bearing. Try to see where it's coming from. If it looks like it's from right in the middle of the hub, that'd be your bearing.
#7
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Ok you had me have to jack up the car again. Nothing is loose or moving in terms of tie rods, etc.
If i spin the wheel and listen to the center of the wheel where the hub is I hear some creaking and clicking. I do not hear this on the drivers side.
Does this pretty much mean its definitely the wheel bearing. Seems it to me. I am pissed cause the tire mounting place kept my wheel lock key so i cant take it to my mechanic tomorrow to replace the braing but it looks like a 160 dollar part and an hour or so of labor
If i spin the wheel and listen to the center of the wheel where the hub is I hear some creaking and clicking. I do not hear this on the drivers side.
Does this pretty much mean its definitely the wheel bearing. Seems it to me. I am pissed cause the tire mounting place kept my wheel lock key so i cant take it to my mechanic tomorrow to replace the braing but it looks like a 160 dollar part and an hour or so of labor
#8
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Originally Posted by robertpel9
Ok you had me have to jack up the car again. Nothing is loose or moving in terms of tie rods, etc.
If i spin the wheel and listen to the center of the wheel where the hub is I hear some creaking and clicking. I do not hear this on the drivers side.
Does this pretty much mean its definitely the wheel bearing. Seems it to me. I am pissed cause the tire mounting place kept my wheel lock key so i cant take it to my mechanic tomorrow to replace the braing but it looks like a 160 dollar part and an hour or so of labor
If i spin the wheel and listen to the center of the wheel where the hub is I hear some creaking and clicking. I do not hear this on the drivers side.
Does this pretty much mean its definitely the wheel bearing. Seems it to me. I am pissed cause the tire mounting place kept my wheel lock key so i cant take it to my mechanic tomorrow to replace the braing but it looks like a 160 dollar part and an hour or so of labor
If anyone else supports this or negates it, please do so before this member purchases the part.
#9
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For what it's worth, I recently had a right front wheel bearing failure on my Pontiac daily driver. The symptoms were much as you describe in terms of the noise, and it's relation to steering input. In my case there was no detectable play in the wheel. The entire hub was replaced as an assembly by the dealer -- which was better for my peace of mind than just the bearing, and probably related to the fact that it's a front wheel drive. I would be concerned about just replacing the bearing in your case also because of the possibility of some other damage to the hub caused by the impact with the curb. It may be just a damaged bearing, but IMO you don't want to cut corners here. I think it needs a thorough inspection due to the circumstances. It may cost more, but your safety and peace of mind is worth it.
#11
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Originally Posted by 99FewteRC5
the frt assy, is a complete hub and brg assy with speed sensor. No pressing needed. from the sound of it, most likely a hub and bearing issuse.
#12
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The pricing on that unit was almost 400 bucks through the dealers. Autozone and Advance had them for 160 but it said Wheel bearing and hub assembly. It did not mention a sensor, is this going to cause issue?? I bought it today and will pick it up tomorrow. Hope i am not missing something
#13
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I remember hearing of this brand. It was rumored to be just as good as the GM unit, but for much less. It's on one of our FAQs here on the forums, and I just don't want to look for it. Chances are it will include everything you need, or you'll be able tor emove the old speed sensor and place it on this unit.
They wouldn't produce something for the C5 like that, that didn't include a speed sensor or have a way for you to use your old one.
They wouldn't produce something for the C5 like that, that didn't include a speed sensor or have a way for you to use your old one.
#14
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I hope you are right, if i do not see the sensor on it i will get a refund and go to autozone where i know it has it. My guess is they are the same at both stores
#15
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St. Jude '03-'04-'05-'06
The wheel bearings from Autozone are the same as OEM...made by Timken. They have the sensors built in...it's a whole hub assembly. Easy to change....
#16
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Here is the part i ordered what i dont like is i see not sensor or mention of it but if you look at the pic of the rear wheel bearing from them (same company) you can see the sensor and everything
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=184&ptset=A
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=184&ptset=A
#17
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Changed my rear wheel bearing hub in my 2003 Saturday had a loud hum and the finally a vibration. The car rides like new now and no vibration i would definitely change it for less than a two hundred dollar part it's worth the money. If you turn to the left hard and the noise goes away for that second it is the driver rear and vice versa.
#18
Changed my rear wheel bearing hub in my 2003 Saturday had a loud hum and the finally a vibration. The car rides like new now and no vibration i would definitely change it for less than a two hundred dollar part it's worth the money. If you turn to the left hard and the noise goes away for that second it is the driver rear and vice versa.
#20
Safety Car
The hubs are held in by three torx bolts. The bottom bolt is inconveniently located directly behind the lower ball joint so the ball joint needs to be unbolted from the knuckle to gain access. Be careful not to damage the rubber ball joint boot. I use a ball joint tool that pushes on the bolt end and has two claws that grab behind the mounting point. The bolts must have been installed with Lock-Tight from the factory because they are hard to get out. The brake caliper bolts were hard to remove as well.
You can get hubs from amazon for around $50. That is enough savings to get a few of the tools you might need.
You can get hubs from amazon for around $50. That is enough savings to get a few of the tools you might need.
Last edited by Rob 02; 05-22-2017 at 12:07 PM.