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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 06:54 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 97Rob
Whatcha think about my responce to vetracn98's post. Or should I contact cajundude? I really appreciate effort. Thanks!
Wolfe is OK but personally I would contact Cajundude. Also spend the extra cash and get the chromoly.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 07:00 PM
  #22  
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Also spend the extra cash and get the chromoly.

I agree.

The chrome moly (stronger) will be 1 5/8" in diameter and the mild steel needs to be slightly bigger at 1 3/4".

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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 07:25 PM
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You will get many different anxwers here. Best to check with the tracks you intend to run at. Some let the rules slide somewhat. I think most MHRA officials will require a six-point that includes the side part.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 07:27 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by tiojames
You will get many different anxwers here. Best to check with the tracks you intend to run at. Some let the rules slide somewhat. I think most MHRA officials will require a six-point that includes the side part.
Actually NHRA requires a 5 point. The 6th point is the passenger door.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 07:32 PM
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Any track at 11.49 or faster requires a 5-point bar (the fith bar is the one running diagonal next to you, I personally would just get the 6-point (bar on both sides) and get the removable ones.

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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 07:40 PM
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6 point with removable door bars. ***EDIT*** This is in various stages. Some before I put the interior back, and some after I swapped the seat skins.













Last edited by 16Again; Sep 4, 2006 at 07:47 PM.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 97Rob
That looks like a reasonable price at $265.00. This is for a 5 point mild steel weld/bolt in. Is this adequate?
Don't let that price fool you. Add in the jig, chrome moly tubing, 1/34 tubes, the door bars and door hardware, powdercoating et al - and your price more than a Cajundude cage.

Plus, it's still bolt in. The weld-in goes to a box in the floor. I wanted my cars welded directly to my chassis - not to a box.

Research a cage carefully - it will cost more than you think.

EG
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 07:45 PM
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NICE!
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 07:47 PM
  #29  
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I`m always 1 post slow on my response...
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 502ci



NICE!
Thank you
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 07:53 PM
  #31  
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Cajundude's 1 3/4 chrome moly 6 point roll cage - all weld-in directly to the chassis.





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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 07:56 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by EnglandGreen
Cajundude's 1 3/4 chrome moly 6 point roll cage - all weld-in directly to the chassis.





COPY CAT Hey obviously we have the same design and mounting points, but how are your door bars mounted?
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 08:02 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by EnglandGreen
Cajundude's 1 3/4 chrome moly 6 point roll cage - all weld-in directly to the chassis.

Question on the tabs for securing the shoulder harness. They don't look like they are inline with the force pulling on them by the harness. Are they at an angle to the shoulder harness webbing force?
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 08:03 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 16Again
COPY CAT Hey obviously we have the same design and mounting points, but how are your door bars mounted?
I asked for a complete cross bar behind the seats. His original design was just a short bar from the chassis.

Here are Jason's sidebars







Last edited by EG@EnglandGreen; Sep 4, 2006 at 08:08 PM.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 08:07 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 5.0 RACER
Question on the tabs for securing the shoulder harness. They don't look like they are inline with the force pulling on them by the harness. Are they at an angle to the shoulder harness webbing force?
They are not significantly different from Bob's (16Again) connectors - just upside down.

The strongest connector would be looped around the roll bar itself, IMHO - like the Brey-Krause bar (which I had before)

Here is a picture of 16Again's tabs
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 08:14 PM
  #36  
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Stephen as I said our designs are the same. You will find that the bars going all the way across from the rocker to the tunnel stiffens the car up very nicely. It now corners flat, very limited body roll.



Originally Posted by EnglandGreen
I asked for a complete cross bar behind the seats. His original design was just a short bar from the chassis.

Here are Jason's sidebars


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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 10:43 PM
  #37  
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All that welding looks permanent. I would like to have the option of removing the roll cage some day. Is bolting really all that bad? I would assume that if satisfies the NHRA, that it should keep me from being crushed.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 10:52 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 97Rob
All that welding looks permanent. I would like to have the option of removing the roll cage some day. Is bolting really all that bad? I would assume that if satisfies the NHRA, that it should keep me from being crushed.
It is permanent.

I can only speak for myself, but I would much prefer to walk away from a crash than worry about "returning the car to stock someday".

The cage is not there to pass NHRA regulations; it's there to save your life.

Just my 2 cents...
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 07:17 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by EnglandGreen
It is permanent.

I can only speak for myself, but I would much prefer to walk away from a crash than worry about "returning the car to stock someday".

The cage is not there to pass NHRA regulations; it's there to save your life.

Just my 2 cents...
with the pysco mod man. Nothing more important than your safety, and I mean NOTHING!
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by EnglandGreen
It is permanent.

I can only speak for myself, but I would much prefer to walk away from a crash than worry about "returning the car to stock someday".

The cage is not there to pass NHRA regulations; it's there to save your life.

Just my 2 cents...

I'm hearing ya! Sounds like a weld in. Hell, at this point theres nothing else stock about the car. I better take all your advice. One day You'll meet me and the car.
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