Headlight gear fix (highly pictorialized)
#121
Headlight cycling after fix
Thanks to posts and pics I have the drivers side back together - have not replaced the cover or plugged in the headlights yet. I cranked the assembly down to match the passenger side. Testing - the motor works - but it is cycling up/down 4 times before it stops. What have I missed?
Thanks
Bat
Thanks
Bat
#125
Instructor
Just finished the passenger side rebuild. Thank you Patches for your excellent write up! My gear didn't have much wear. Hard to believe that was what was causing all the noise and problems. But everything works like it is supposed to now, so evidently that was the problem. (why don't I get the option of posting a picture????)
Last edited by mike5511; 07-15-2012 at 03:51 AM.
#126
Melting Slicks
#127
Did this some time ago
I did this some time ago apparently before they included the T-bar to hold the cover in place.The original post I followed with installation instructions said not to use the epoxy included with the kit, being of low quality. I used some of the high end JB Weld. Well that didn't hold on one of the covers.
Electronic Pop up: I also still can't get the adjustment down on this. From time to time the headlights lock into the down position. I have to pop the hood and turn the manual **** a turn or two before they will pop up electronically.
Others I have read here had the same problem with the brass gears.
Todd
Electronic Pop up: I also still can't get the adjustment down on this. From time to time the headlights lock into the down position. I have to pop the hood and turn the manual **** a turn or two before they will pop up electronically.
Others I have read here had the same problem with the brass gears.
Todd
#128
Le Mans Master
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Location: Morristown New Jersey
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Oldtimer
I have a similar problem, but it's only the right side bucket that is balky. Same solution as Todd, but it's annoying. I also noticed, when using my driver drill to crank the lights up, in the middle of the travel, that the motor seems to get 'loose'. (You can shake it in that position) Is this normal?
#129
Instructor
#130
Safety Car
The Search Tool is the best thing to use in this forum. I have the same problem with my passenger side headlight. I know there was a fix for it, but I wanted to get the instructions and photos.
The write up on this is really going to help me next month when I have time to get to this project.
Thanks for the write up and the photos.
kdf
The write up on this is really going to help me next month when I have time to get to this project.
Thanks for the write up and the photos.
kdf
#132
Gear wench?
Wonderful write up and pics. My '01 just did the machine gun thing on the drivers side. I called the dealer and they want $375 for the motor and $117 labor. Top Down Solutions wants $44 for the kit plus shipping. Needless to say I'm going to do it myself. If I put the dealer part in it will be the same plastic that failed.
Only one question, how is the center nut that holds the shaft removed, the write up mentions "gear wrench". Will the shaft just keep turning if I don't have a special tool?
Thanks in advance for any help I can get.
Mike
Only one question, how is the center nut that holds the shaft removed, the write up mentions "gear wrench". Will the shaft just keep turning if I don't have a special tool?
Thanks in advance for any help I can get.
Mike
#135
Pro
Member Since: May 2012
Location: La Plata Maryland
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MD Events Coordinator
This is why this forum is such an amazing asset to C 5 owners. Prior to purchasing mine I spent weeks on here researching all of the quirks associated with the C5. Then I began a file with many of the DIY'S that you guys post here for future reference. I went form knowing almost nothing about the car that dorve home back in late May to being comfortable to perform just about anything that needs to be done, or I want to do, to it.
Thanks.....
Thanks.....
#136
Instructor
Wonderful write up and pics. My '01 just did the machine gun thing on the drivers side. I called the dealer and they want $375 for the motor and $117 labor. Top Down Solutions wants $44 for the kit plus shipping. Needless to say I'm going to do it myself. If I put the dealer part in it will be the same plastic that failed.
Only one question, how is the center nut that holds the shaft removed, the write up mentions "gear wrench". Will the shaft just keep turning if I don't have a special tool?
Thanks in advance for any help I can get.
Mike
Only one question, how is the center nut that holds the shaft removed, the write up mentions "gear wrench". Will the shaft just keep turning if I don't have a special tool?
Thanks in advance for any help I can get.
Mike
#137
Le Mans Master
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No special tools are needed like mentioned before. I just used a 1/4" ratchet and socket and was able to get in there without taking the headlight out or cover off. The nut that attaches the shaft to the arm is actually not holding the shaft in place. It's to keep the arm attached to the gear drive. It should not spine unless your gear inside to totally stripped which should not be the case. The cover you need to take off to get to the gear on the actuator is what holds the shaft in place.
#139
Headlight motor re build
Many thanks to PATCHES, his write up and pictures were great and made what could be a tough job far easier.
I just want to add a couple notes that might be helpful in the future.
Stuffing a large rag or small towel under the light and motor assembly in the hollow cavity below will help if you happen to drop a nut or bolt as some of us are prone to doing.
I don't see any reason to disconnect the battery since the whole assembly is out of the circuit once the gray power plug is disconnected. If the battery is disconnected for any period of time pre set codes may go away and have to be re set.
After disconnecting every thing, I found that the headlight assembly could have easily been removed by removing the two Torx-nuts on the top rear (toward the driver) of the assembly shown in picture #5. They have blue Locktite. Of course put fresh Locktite in when reinstalling. The motor shaft nut has to be removed next or before. No need to remove anything from the frame as mentioned in the Top Down Solutions instructions.
This is a good time to check the white plastic motor travel stops for wear. If they show some wear just pull them off and turn them over.
If the motor is loose from the gear assemble it is easily tightened per the instructions.
This is a good time to check the white plastic motor travel stops for wear. If they show some wear just pull them off and turn them over.
Good luck to all.
I just want to add a couple notes that might be helpful in the future.
Stuffing a large rag or small towel under the light and motor assembly in the hollow cavity below will help if you happen to drop a nut or bolt as some of us are prone to doing.
I don't see any reason to disconnect the battery since the whole assembly is out of the circuit once the gray power plug is disconnected. If the battery is disconnected for any period of time pre set codes may go away and have to be re set.
After disconnecting every thing, I found that the headlight assembly could have easily been removed by removing the two Torx-nuts on the top rear (toward the driver) of the assembly shown in picture #5. They have blue Locktite. Of course put fresh Locktite in when reinstalling. The motor shaft nut has to be removed next or before. No need to remove anything from the frame as mentioned in the Top Down Solutions instructions.
This is a good time to check the white plastic motor travel stops for wear. If they show some wear just pull them off and turn them over.
If the motor is loose from the gear assemble it is easily tightened per the instructions.
This is a good time to check the white plastic motor travel stops for wear. If they show some wear just pull them off and turn them over.
Good luck to all.
#140
Heel & Toe
subbing for future reference as well. I just purchased my car a couple of weeks ago and the driver side light had the gear and motor replaced before I bought the car. When you turn the lights off the driver side light goes down and then comes back up a few times before finally stopping in a random position.