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Headlight gear fix (highly pictorialized)

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Old 08-18-2013, 08:55 PM
  #161  
sebvegas
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This is a great "how to" thread, and again, thank you very much, it helped me a lot to replace mine.
But I have a question though " despite everything works just fine and quietly, I can hear a little "bump noise" when the headlight closes.

Any idea anyone ?
thanks
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:33 PM
  #162  
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Thanks to Patches, and the others for tips/hints. My 04 CE got fixed up today but I got one of my mechanically inclined friends (with smaller hands than mine!) to help.

I ordered the complete set of bumper stops and metal gears for both lights from Rodney Dickman, they worked like a champ (included the T bracket and washers) on mine.

I was glad I did, when I opened the driver's side (which worked) there were bits of plastic already flaking off the gear, so it wouldn't have been long before that one took a dump and I'd be doing this all over again.

So thanks again, Patches, for the great write up!

Jim (no longer a one-eyed bandit in So Cal)

Last edited by ScumOne; 11-19-2013 at 09:01 AM.
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Old 02-25-2014, 11:32 AM
  #163  
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A couple of questions for T-Bar Install and headlight removal?

These are very good instructions by the way. Patches did an excellent job. I copied and printed them and have perused them a number of times.

1. Where exactly does the round white washer go when installing the T-Bar does it go between the T-Bar and motor cover? Where does it belong? I have seen no instructions which explain anything about this washer

2. Why has no one mentioned about just removing the top two headlight swivel screws and then just setting the headlight down inside the front well. With mine (2002 Convertible) once the actuator arm is disconnected and the headlight connections disconnected you can take the complete headlight assembly out. Look at this Youtube video

I got my brass kit from "Top Down Solutions" and it comes with a new rubber inside bushing with the gear, grease and the epoxy. I did as recommended and clamped and cured for 24 hours.

I still have not however been able to find out where the white washer included goes?

I will add this as well with the headlight up as you know you can turn the headlight control back half way and kill the lights. I did this then disconnected the battery. Once I had the assembly out I reconnected the battery and turned the lights to off. When I was ready to put my repaired assembly back in, I turned the headlight back on to raise the drivers side, obviously I wanted both lights to full upturned the headlight back to half off and then disconnected the battery again.

I would recommend before you reinstall the black bezel you complete all the assemble, reconnect the battery and lower the hood. I had to readjust the inside headlight cover screw, which you cannot do with the bezel on.

When you pull the motor note the actuator rods flat surface location. I marked mind with a china pin. When I put mind back in the flat side was off just a tad, so I removed the motors rubber cap and adjusted it back to the alignment then reattached the actuator rod

Last edited by Pseudomind; 02-26-2014 at 10:25 AM.
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Old 09-27-2014, 08:40 AM
  #164  
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Thanks Ed! I just finished with my gear swap, oh yeah, I tied a shoe lace to my ratchet wrench and secured it to the hood bumpers, so I was able to fish it out every time I dropped the @#!$ thing.
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Old 10-29-2014, 05:29 PM
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Ok, I replace my drive side motor completely. However, when I turn of the lights, the drive side head light will close, but then raise up again and stay in that position. Do you have any tips?

Thanks
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Old 10-29-2014, 09:27 PM
  #166  
Bill Curlee
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Originally Posted by NJD View Post
Ok, I replace my drive side motor completely. However, when I turn of the lights, the drive side head light will close, but then raise up again and stay in that position. Do you have any tips?


There are white plastic stops that the headlight stop against. See if they are cracked or missing. There are replacements that you can purchase from GM.

They Item #4 in the picture and they come in a kit with the spacers:



Bill
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There are white plastic stops that the headlight stop against. See if they are cracked or missing. There are replacements that you can purchase from GM.

They Item #4 in the picture and they come in a kit with the spacers:



Bill
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Old 12-01-2014, 10:34 AM
  #167  
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Yep,my next project,parts on order new motors,also going with the brass gears.R
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Old 12-30-2014, 12:30 AM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by Patches View Post
...I clamped the cover snugly to maintain pressure while the adhesive cured overnight. I used the remaining adhesive to form a bead around the outside of the case/cover interface.


The next morning, I removed the clamps and checked for a good bond...
What's the size of the C-Clamps you used?
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Old 12-30-2014, 12:23 PM
  #169  
Patches
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Originally Posted by GCG View Post
What's the size of the C-Clamps you used?
3" C-clamps
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Old 12-30-2014, 12:33 PM
  #170  
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Thanks!

Sent from my DROID TURBO XT1254 using IB AutoGroup
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Old 06-07-2015, 05:16 PM
  #171  
StealthStrike42
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Thank you, Patches!

Had the same issue as NJD, was trying to fix it via replacing the bumper stops. The bottom two were badly damaged. When trying to get them back on, one was no problem, second one was a real pain because part of the actuator arm had fallen far enough down to where it was blocking the lip where the new stop needed to go. I was following a YouTube video to try to remove the two screws at the top where the headlight pivots but could not get it off, I didn't have the right tools. Thanks to your guide I was able to remove the nut holding on that arm, move the arm, put on the new stop, and then throw the arm and nut back on and BAM! Problem solved.

Thanks again man
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Old 12-19-2015, 04:23 PM
  #172  
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Default C-5 Headlight Repair

The article was well written and the photos were a big help, however, by necessity, I found another quick repair method for these headlight problems. As one author mentioned on this forum, the headlight motor only uses one half of the plastic gear to operate the headlight! Therefore, when you get to the point where you disconnect the linkage from the motor, try "manually" turning the headlight motor until the linkage shaft is 180 degrees from the point where you have removed the linkage. Replace the linkage arm, and you will find that your headlight works normally again!!! There is no need to take the motor off, or pry open the gear box!! It worked for me this morning.
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Old 12-19-2015, 05:28 PM
  #173  
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Nice............Thanks...........
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Old 12-19-2015, 07:06 PM
  #174  
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@Chief3333,

.....however the other side of the plastic gear will also eventually fail. Take it as a warning to get the brass gears, then do the repair at your leisure.
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:43 AM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by Chief3333 View Post
The article was well written and the photos were a big help, however, by necessity, I found another quick repair method for these headlight problems. As one author mentioned on this forum, the headlight motor only uses one half of the plastic gear to operate the headlight! Therefore, when you get to the point where you disconnect the linkage from the motor, try "manually" turning the headlight motor until the linkage shaft is 180 degrees from the point where you have removed the linkage. Replace the linkage arm, and you will find that your headlight works normally again!!! There is no need to take the motor off, or pry open the gear box!! It worked for me this morning.
your right but the gear is plastic and now ~15 years old and more brittle so go ahead and buy the gears in the near future and study up on the procedure...
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Old 09-18-2017, 12:24 AM
  #176  
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Still a useful thread. Just fixed mine tonight!
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Old 09-18-2017, 07:34 PM
  #177  
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I just fixed my driver's side motor with a metal gear.
Much thanks to this thread.

Looks like the grease has caked up and been pushed out of the way... may be the trigger that causes the failure.

One odd thing: I have a 98.. For some reason, 90% of the help and info is for later C5s.
The design is slightly different on the 98 (probably up to 2000).
The motor is not epoxied together - it's held by screws, and there is a gasket.
Also the configuration of the bolts holding the motor in is different - there is only 1 with a nut, the other 2 holes are threaded.

Take care to note the position of bushing and spacers on both sides of the gear... they need to be re-used (at least my kit didn't include new ones)

Fred

Last edited by SDVette; 09-18-2017 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 09-19-2017, 08:10 AM
  #178  
CPO Rob
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Great Post. This is a keeper for sure
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Old 09-19-2017, 08:39 AM
  #179  
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Old 09-23-2017, 11:21 PM
  #180  
corvet786c
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In Rodney's kit, where do the small rubber o-ring go? The ones with the metal T in same bag?
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