Originally Posted by cuspid

It just worked for me. THANKS

Originally Posted by cuspid

It just worked for me. THANKS

Originally Posted by LT1SPUD

My passenger door window became stuck/busted the other day in the up position....push the down button and all i get is a "click" sound coming from the door....i'm thinking "ok, this is going to be a pain to fix"... not so!!!! i relate my woes to a good friend and he says to bring the Vette over to his house and he'll have it fixed in 5 minutes....I'M IN!!!!

Tools required:

1 small pocket screwdriver
1 long necked screwdriver
1 hammer
an assistant (unless you're a three armed mutant)

1st: remove the small cover on the door just down and back of the hand grip with the small screwdriver

cover removed:
Attachment 48178450

next, align long necked screwdriver under the rear hex head bolt as shown:
Attachment 48178451

now, while having the assistant turn the key to the "on" position and then repeatedly pushing the window "down" button, give the big screwdriver a couple of whacks with the hammer......window should roll on down.......

that is all.......

Originally Posted by SEAMOORE

I'm the one that did the fix for LT1SPUD. I don't agree that it's a temporary fix. I last did it on my previous C5, a 99 FRC approx 2 years ago and it is still working. My boss bought it and I see him almost every day. This little trick has never failed for me and I have done it on at least 5 different Vettes. My thoughts are that it quits working because of lack of use. It's always the passenger window, not once the driver's window because it gets used. I'll spend 5 minutes several times before I pay $$$ for new parts and labor. Try it.

Originally Posted by GlobalFootPrints

Window Problem & Solution Below

My Problem:
Window (passenger) would roll down but once the movement stopped (either part or fully down) the window would not begin moving again. Slamming door or pounding on door about location of Motor / Door Control Module (as others advised) would occasionally get the window moving again. I could hear a clicking sound coming from the window relay each time I pressed the window up / down button.

My Solution:
Removed door panel, tested voltage to window motor at motor’s connection plug while pressing the window up button and then the window down button. Both measured ~12.7V. To me this meant that the power was making it to the window motor (I could also hear the Relay clicking) and the fact that the motor wasn’t working indicated that the problem existed within the motor. Took the motor apart and cleaned inside but there was almost no carbon from the brushes and everything looked very clean. Reinstalled window motor and Door Control Module and tested it. The window worked 4 times then stopped working again. It was evident I had done something to temporarily fix the problem but it wasn’t permanent. Repeated this process twice more before slowing down and realizing that the Relay was only working part of the time (intermittently). I noticed that when I depressed Window Up button the Relay clicked once and when I released the Window Up button the relay clicked a second time. However when I depressed the Window Down button the Relay clicked once but when I released the Window Down button the Relay did not click the second time. My conclusion was now that the Relay was bad. I again tested the voltage at the window motor connection plug however this time I tested the voltage when the window refused to move up or down. I was surprised to get voltage readings all over the place from 0.3Volts to 6.7V, but never the 12.7Volts I had gotten before (this could explain the intermittent window movement). I also realized that when the Relay did not click the second time upon releasing the Window Down Button the voltage continued flowing to the window motor (although the motor was not moving the window). My assumption now was that the window motor required over 12V to operate. I removed the Door Control Module from the car, and took the circuit board out for a close visual inspection. It was then that I realized that one of the 64 connector pins on the board that connect to the wire harness looked slightly tarnished yellow while all the rest were clean silver in appearance. The specific board pin that was tarnished mated with the Blue Wire that is contained in the Green Socket (harness) that plugged into the Door Control Module. I then disassembled the harness to look closely at the female jack on the blue wire. The female jack on the blue wire appeared clean under a magnifying glass. Using very fine sand paper I sanded the one plug.on the circuit board that was tarnished and then applied a very very light coating of petroleum jelly to ensure a good connection. I reinstalled the Door Control Module and checked the voltage at the motor’s connection plug. I now get a consistent 12.7V and I now hear the relay click once when depressing and a second time when releasing each Window up/down button and the window moves up and down. I don’t know whether this will turn out to be a permanent fix or a half success. It is possible that the tarnishing (yellowing) of the one plug was preventing the required flow of current to start the motor and it would also potentially explain why unplugging it and replugging it in created a short lived temporary fix. I don’t know though if it would explain why the relay did not originally click when releasing the Window Down button.

My Vette:
2002 C5 with ~68,000 miles in Austin, TX.