Another How To for Dummies: Headlight Gear Replacement
#21
Safety Car
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where were you 24 hours ago?!?
I just did mine last night. I got through the procedure pretty much as your described it (my 99 has the 3 screws and no epoxy fortunately!) I got the gears swapped.
my problem showed up right at the end. once I got my headlights back on the car they were not aligned properly. the passenger's side was scraping the bumper when it closed. I have another thread with all the details. since this thread is so detailed already, can someone post a pic with the headlight cover off and arrows or something to show these adjustment screws which allow you to move the headlight assembly up/down, left/right and back/forward? other than the 5 mounting screws of course (strange, mine only had 5, not 6) there doesn't seem to be any adjustment there, but somehow my passenger's side headlight did not get back on the car in the same position where it was before. I need all the help I can get to try to get this job 100% done.
I just did mine last night. I got through the procedure pretty much as your described it (my 99 has the 3 screws and no epoxy fortunately!) I got the gears swapped.
my problem showed up right at the end. once I got my headlights back on the car they were not aligned properly. the passenger's side was scraping the bumper when it closed. I have another thread with all the details. since this thread is so detailed already, can someone post a pic with the headlight cover off and arrows or something to show these adjustment screws which allow you to move the headlight assembly up/down, left/right and back/forward? other than the 5 mounting screws of course (strange, mine only had 5, not 6) there doesn't seem to be any adjustment there, but somehow my passenger's side headlight did not get back on the car in the same position where it was before. I need all the help I can get to try to get this job 100% done.
#22
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#24
Burning Brakes
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Great write up!
Having done this myself, I'll make the following observations:
1. I opted to only remove the motor rather than the entire light assembly. This way, you don't have any problems lining stuff back up afterward. You only need to remove four 10mm bolts to do this. Three that attach the motor to the mounting brackets and one that connects the actuator to the spindle of the motor.
2. Having a "racheting" box-end 10mm wrench for the job was a God-send. Makes it much easier given the limited space and tight access you are working with.
3. Be sure to remove screw-in hood-stop and black trim piece surrounding the headlight for improved access.
4. For those with the newer motor housings that are glued rather than screwed, the Rodney Dickman gear replacement kits include a clever "T-brace" that will help ensure that your glue job holds once you have reinstalled the motor.
Good luck to all that have to go down this road. The fact that it is a permanent solution makes it all well worth the headache.
Having done this myself, I'll make the following observations:
1. I opted to only remove the motor rather than the entire light assembly. This way, you don't have any problems lining stuff back up afterward. You only need to remove four 10mm bolts to do this. Three that attach the motor to the mounting brackets and one that connects the actuator to the spindle of the motor.
2. Having a "racheting" box-end 10mm wrench for the job was a God-send. Makes it much easier given the limited space and tight access you are working with.
3. Be sure to remove screw-in hood-stop and black trim piece surrounding the headlight for improved access.
4. For those with the newer motor housings that are glued rather than screwed, the Rodney Dickman gear replacement kits include a clever "T-brace" that will help ensure that your glue job holds once you have reinstalled the motor.
Good luck to all that have to go down this road. The fact that it is a permanent solution makes it all well worth the headache.
#27
Safety Car
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Thanks DeeGee, I know I owe you and a whole bunch of guys some thanks for making me want to even try doing this repair, being the "shade tree mechanic" that I am. I also got a taste of what the HID mod will be like when I take that plunge. To think that for the last 6 years I've been taking my ride to the stealership to have everything done. Gesh, they need to come out with a "pimp slap" smiley for me for doing that...
Thanks old timer!
Thanks old timer!
#28
Melting Slicks
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#29
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Thank you for the write up, i used it to fix my headlight gear and replace my blinker at the same time. However, i did not have the harness on my headlight assembly (I did drivers side). What is that for, how am i missing it? Is it only on the passanger side?
#30
Melting Slicks
You may be referring to the harness for the headlight door control module, it has 2 connectors to wiring harnesses on it. One module controls both the right and left doors, and its on the passenger's side.
#32
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Another instance where The Forum has saved me some serious cash...in fact, it saved me all my cash this time! The link to Brent's website and the 'free fix' worked as described. Ten minutes start to finish and the 'grind' is gone...180 turn of the motor to use the other side of the gear probably bought me another few years before I actually have to crack the housing open. Thanks "Junkman"!
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Awesome writeup. Saved that for future use.
#38
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Used the excellent instructions here and replaced the plastic gear on the drivers side with a brass Gear from www.rodneydickman.com
Just removed the motor instead of the complete assembly. One word of advice: use a 10 mm ratchet wrench. I didn't and it was a pain.
Just removed the motor instead of the complete assembly. One word of advice: use a 10 mm ratchet wrench. I didn't and it was a pain.