opua

I have been looking to getting a C5 (1999 to 2004). I have seen some really low mileage ones out here. My questions:

1) What things/parts (other than oil and brake fluid) go bad with years rather than miles? Do the bushings and seals dry out over time? Do shocks go bad by just supporting the weight of the car?

2) If a car isn't driven for a long time...say over the winter, will the engine internals rust out?

3) Am I better off buying say a 2001 car with 5k miles or a 2004 car with 20k miles for a price differential of 15% (2004 higher priced)?

71vetteinva

1) Yes, coolant comes to mind. No one ever seems to remember to flush and fill the coolant system after the first five years, then three years afterward. Belts, hoses, seals and tires can dry rot on any car. I had four tires that practically dry rotted on me once. It's just something to check over before you buy.

2) No.

3) It depends on how much money you have. A 2004 is less likely to have problems and 20k mile is nothing, especially on a car that you're going to be storing for a long time. The '04 also has more power, so if it were me, and I could afford it, then I'd go with that one.

Vetteman Jack

:And don't forget about the battery.

ontcanuck

just bought a 2001 6 speed convertible garage queen with 5800 miles on it.First thing I did was change the brake fluid and antifreeze.The tires were checked carefully by a tire shop and he said they looked excellent.On another note this car will no longer be a garage queen I hope to put at least 10,000 miles a year on it I would put on more but I put at least 10,000 on my Harley also

Whiteonrice

But I would buy the 01 basically the same car with the same horsepower etc. Some of the 01s had oil burning issues but I think it was way overblown. i would buy a clean 01 in a second. I always buy the lowest mileage car I can find.

Rick

mbroadway

When did the 2004 get more horsepower than the 2001?

Carcass

Shocks don't support the weight of the vehicle - they keep it from bouncing all over the place when said vehicle hits a "bump" in the road.

Seals will "dry out" if not run for a long time.(drive it)

If you find a Vette that you like,and you want,buy the effin' thing.
'97 -- 04 wtf? they are all c5's(and most people don't have a clue) --pull the trigger on the one you like.
To my way of thinking,a lo mile 97 that gets "mistook" for a 2003, is pretty f. cool.

But thats me.

Noob/no vette yet/
But I'm workin on it.

opua

Thanks. Lots of good ideas here. I especially like the one "If you find a Vette that you like,and you want,buy the effin' thing."

As far as older lower miles car versus newer higher miles car, there appears to be two groups here: one that favors lower miles, another group that favors new car. I am in the confused camp. Keep the ideas coming.

robertlthomson

I decided on the color I wanted. Then researched the options, made a list, and added those to the color I wanted. Finally I went for mileage and condition combined. Prices seem to be somewhat negotiable. Results? white 99 coupe, fully loaded, no mods (some by me now) 41,000 miles, excellent condition. One year later?

jovette

And the answer of course, is that they didn't! Absolutely no difference between the '01 LS1 and the '04 LS1.

In addition to fluids, age can degrade tires, (rubber gets harder), belts, hoses, battery, weatherstripping, you get the idea.

Whiteonrice

2 or 3 years is not that much difference especially if it was sitting in a garage. If it was 5 or more then yes. The 01 through 04 are almost identical. Get the one that turns you on. I would rather get to put that other 15k miles on myself and save the 15% for gas and smiles.

Rick

opua

Good points here on the lower mileage car. Someone pointed out to me that in 10 years, it won't matter much between a 17-year old car (model 2001) and a 14-year old car (model year 2004).

50th@50

I am in the camp of "continious improvement" from the factory as a rule of thumb, but also, how much TLC was provided by the owner(s) is important also to consider, IMO. Good post, good guestion.

Thanks,
Les

MagRedConv

I looked at your other posts and noticed that you are also gathering info on a Boxter S. Have you fully decided on a Vette? It looks like you've started quite a few "what to look for, etc. threads". Do you have the money to pull the trigger on the purchase?

Stock Man

This may help you out.

Differences in Corvettes by year:

1997
 Completely new, redesigned Corvette. Base (FE1) and Z51 (FE3) suspension packages.
 All Z51 cars include: Power Steering Cooler
 97-00 C5 LS1's produce 345 HP @ 5600 RPM and 350 Ft Lbs of torque @ 4400 RPM.

1998
 Convertible becomes available
 Active Handling becomes available late in year
 The two slots of a 1998 (and possibly late 1997s) curve toward the rear at the bottom. (versus straight down)

1999
 26# injectors substituted for 28#
 Fuel pump revised to reduce noise
 FRC "Fixed Roof Coupe" aka the hardtop, becomes available. All FRC's are MN6 (6-speed) cars with the Z51 suspension package, and are about 60lbs lighter than coupes.
 HUD introduced
 Only one line in driver's side fuel rail cover (no fuel return line?)
 Power telescoping wheel becomes an option
 Steering hardware changed to combat wandering
 Door sill trim plates added

2000
 Millennium Yellow available
 "Thin Spoke" versus "wagon wheel" design wheels become standard.
 Pup cats added to all models for LEV emissions requirements (5hp loss relative to 97-99)
 Steel swaybar endlinks instead of plastic on Z51 equipped cars
 Z51 swaybar diameters grow (25.4/21.7 to 28.6/21.7 to 28.6/23.6 (note: new rear same as Z06)
 No keyhole on passenger side doorhandle
 Passenger airbag 'off' switch added to console (light by TC/AH button)

2001
 Return to 28# injectors for all models.
 Second Generation Active Handling
 Nassau Blue discontinued
 Alternator 'clutch' pulley added on A4 cars
 New soundproofing + foam in all cars
 Smaller keyfob
 Electrochromic dimming rearview and driver's mirrors
 Lighter AGM battery
 Thickness + Material in Convertible change
 Chrome exhaust tips for coupe + Convertible
 85MM MAF with integral temp sensor (versus 74mm with separate plug for IAT)
 LS1 cam profile changed to: .500/0.500, 198/208 on 115.5LSA (From: 0.472/0.479, 202/210 on 117)
 All Corvettes now have the LS6 intake manifold
 All Corvettes now have the LS6 engine block (windage passages in block), which includes a beefier oil pump.
 LS1 changes result in new output of 350 HP @ 5200 RPM and 375 Ft Lbs of torque @ 4400 RPM (MN6)
 Hardtop/FRC discontinued
 Stronger synchros in all transmissions
 Exhaust manifolds revised (5hp regained) - thin wall cast replacing SS manifolds
 Metal valvestem caps (late year)
 Torque Tube changed from metal-matrix composite to aluminum alloy 6061, increased in diameter from 55 to 63 mm.
 Driveshaft couplings have also been upgraded on manual-equipped models for additional strength and durability
 Introduction of the Z06, which has as differences:
 Hardtop body style
 Rear brake ducting
 Screened inlets on front fascia, without foglights
 F1 Supercar tires 265-17 front, 295-18 rear, on 17x9.5 and 18x10.5 (one inch wider, respectively
 New LS6 top-end with new style head design (10.5:1 compression, 64cc chamber), LS6 cam (0.525/0.525, 204/211 on 116) - 385hp
 M12 transmission with shorter gearing (1-2-3 analagous to MN6 with 3.90 rear diff
 Titanium exhaust system
 Lightweight windshield
 New, stronger clutch with redesigned master + slave cylinder
 Stronger rear differential (shotpeened ring gear)
 Red brake calipers (otherwise identical)
 Transmission overtemp warning light on DIC
 6500 redline gauges with special checkering + Z06 font
 Redesigned PCV system to help combat oil burning
 Red LS6 Fuel Rail Covers (FRC's)
 FE4 Z06 suspension - uprated springs, bars (30mm/23.6mm), shocks (note front spring and rear bar same as Z51)

2002
 Z06 Changes:
 Z06 LS6 cam changed to: 0.551/0.547, 204/218 on 117.5
 Less restrictive intake airbox lid
 Descreened MAF
 Removal of pup-cats (total with changes = 405hp)
 Z06 shocks revised with less rebound for better launching
 Z06 brake pads revised for better stopping (generate more dust)
 Lighter, sodium filled valves w/ stronger valve springs
 Higher tension rings installed to prevent oil burning problems
 Slight piston redesign *
 Clutch strength upgraded.
 HUD available on Z06 (not avail '01 model year)
 Wheel supplier changed to Speedline, moved from forged to cast. Weight nearly identical
 Electron Blue color offered
 Steel endlinks changed to aluminum

2003
 Late model-year new fuel system design from C6's

2004
 Z06 shocks further refined. Accompanying upper front control arm bushing, and rear swaybar bushing changes.

50th@50

OK then, I have a very late model 2003, based on VIN around last 2,000 built of the about 35,000, so do I have the fuel filter in gas tank and never needs replacement or ?? Also always wondered why in a lot of parts catalog books 2004 stands out as a different P/N`s than 2003 and down, like a Diablo predator, for instance plus other P/N`s I see, but the list does not show a significant change for 2004, wat up wit dat ?

Thanks,
Peace,
Les

Whiteonrice

The only difference between the 01 and the 04 is the fuel system unless you have a Z06 and then you get new shocks. They did go to different rings in 02 for the so called oil burning issue. Some don't think the new fuel system is an improvement. Your call but from the outside nobody can tell if it's an 01 or 04 unless its a commemorative edition. Enjoy and tell us what you get.

Rick

stevette17

Great list i have been looking for something like this (where didu source this list?).I guess its '01+ i am getting. Also, should i get targa or conv. (people keep saying to me this is an old mans car.)
What is the diff with Base (FE1) and Z51 (FE3) suspension packages, did all years have this and what was included in the package and did it change the ride height and how can u tell?
What is the warrenty on like on the c5

Mr.Bill

Bottom Line..... Buy the newest with the least amount of miles you like, You can't go wrong...
If you are looking for a Vette with an automatic try to find one with the 3.15 gears...

AU N EGL

a 2001 with only 5000 miles, may have dried out transmission and diff seals from not being driven enough.

some 2001 had a minor oiling issue with the engine

buy the 2004 with 20,000 - far better choice